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How to visually tell apart EJs


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My engine isn't original in the car and I don't know what is it and I don't have previous owner's contact anymore. How to tell which engine is it? It's a EJ20 DOHC for sure and previous owner said it was a twin turbo without the turbos. Also intake manifold is two parts welded together (I presume top part is from N/A engine as it is thinner compared to bottom part). Fuel rail has red injectors labeled A46-00.

uZXQC5Io14Q.jpg?size=1215x2160&quality=95&sign=95a6dfd0c0d5bdee3c1d888b6e24da3c&type=album

 

C9x8nyccou0.jpg?size=1215x2160&quality=95&sign=d96ee8c816654ece8015b9930715e3a3&type=album

 

The problem is rough idle and the whole car is jerking while on idle. If I give it a little bit of gas it stops jerking. And also exhaust reeks like petrol really bad. I believe I have incorrect MAF sensor in it. It has green sticker MAF now (AA160 code) and I believe twin turbos should have either blue sticker (AA200 code) or purple sticker (AA280 code). I think it's running to rich since turbo MAFs are designed to provide more air and I have N/A MAF installed.

 

DOfVrArTl3I.jpg?size=1215x2160&quality=95&sign=0b497d88c3626375d7f918ae05536fca&type=album

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The engine build date is located under the oil fill cap and, the block is stamped with the basic engine info under the power-steering pump.

 

yeah well basic info just says "EJ20" I already knew that. Need to know exact spec though

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My engine isn't original in the car and I don't know what is it and I don't have previous owner's contact anymore. How to tell which engine is it? It's a EJ20 DOHC for sure and previous owner said it was a twin turbo without the turbos. Also intake manifold is two parts welded together (I presume top part is from N/A engine as it is thinner compared to bottom part). Fuel rail has red injectors labeled A46-00.

uZXQC5Io14Q.jpg?size=1215x2160&quality=95&sign=95a6dfd0c0d5bdee3c1d888b6e24da3c&type=album

 

C9x8nyccou0.jpg?size=1215x2160&quality=95&sign=d96ee8c816654ece8015b9930715e3a3&type=album

 

The problem is rough idle and the whole car is jerking while on idle. If I give it a little bit of gas it stops jerking. And also exhaust reeks like petrol really bad. I believe I have incorrect MAF sensor in it. It has green sticker MAF now (AA160 code) and I believe twin turbos should have either blue sticker (AA200 code) or purple sticker (AA280 code). I think it's running to rich since turbo MAFs are designed to provide more air and I have N/A MAF installed.

 

DOfVrArTl3I.jpg?size=1215x2160&quality=95&sign=0b497d88c3626375d7f918ae05536fca&type=album

 

It is exactly as you suspect. This engine does not belong in this car. I'll explain in detail.

 

The intake manifold was welded at the bottom of the runners because Phase 2 DOHC's have a different bolt pattern than the Phase 1's (your car) DOHC heads do. This was done to adapt the engine to the car.

 

However, this engine is able to run because it has Phase 1 timing triggers from the factory. While I won't go too deep into it (Reseach EJ205/EJ206/EJ208), I strongly suspect that your engine is a member of that family.

 

Early JDM Phase 2 DOHC turbo engines came with Phase 1 timing triggers. Phase 2 is the next generation of cars/technology from Subaru (1999+). The engine you're running is indeed a turbo 2.0 (likely what the owner said it is).

 

Being between two different worlds, many mods will work for you to spice that engine's performance up. I've got a good list for that engine to help you get the best of what you can out of it without boost. My ig is ej22d.

 

I hope this helps!

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It is exactly as you suspect. This engine does not belong in this car. I'll explain in detail.

 

The intake manifold was welded at the bottom of the runners because Phase 2 DOHC's have a different bolt pattern than the Phase 1's (your car) DOHC heads do. This was done to adapt the engine to the car.

 

However, this engine is able to run because it has Phase 1 timing triggers from the factory. While I won't go too deep into it (Reseach EJ205/EJ206/EJ208), I strongly suspect that your engine is a member of that family.

 

Early JDM Phase 2 DOHC turbo engines came with Phase 1 timing triggers. Phase 2 is the next generation of cars/technology from Subaru (1999+). The engine you're running is indeed a turbo 2.0 (likely what the owner said it is).

 

Being between two different worlds, many mods will work for you to spice that engine's performance up. I've got a good list for that engine to help you get the best of what you can out of it without boost. My ig is ej22d.

 

I hope this helps!

 

Thanks for your post. Now I've looked up 2nd gen MAFs and they don't look anyting like mine:

4-750x470.jpg My wiring has a rectangle 4-pin connector though.

 

And also about compression test. My numbers are kinda? low: 1st cyl is 90psi and others are 130 psi. Should I even bother with working on this engine really? It's easier and cheaper to get an engine from a salvage yard than rebuild existing one (where I live at least)

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Thanks for your post. Now I've looked up 2nd gen MAFs and they don't look anyting like mine...

And also about compression test. My numbers are kinda? low: 1st cyl is 90psi and others are 130 psi. Should I even bother with working on this engine really? It's easier and cheaper to get an engine from a salvage yard than rebuild existing one (where I live at least)

 

The physical longblock is the only thing that is different. Everything else is 2g specific, so you will have to buy sensors and injectors you would for an EJ22E or EJ25D equipped Legacy. Personally, I would pull that engine for a matching 2.2 or 2.5 that belongs in the car. You can do some neat things with that Phase 2 2.0. For starters, you can put the heads on an EJ251 bottom end and have a neat 2.5L ripper on your hands. You can also clean up the ports of that custom intake to get maximum flow out of it. You having that setup gives you a unique build path, if you should choose to walk it.

Edited by DOHCEJ22E1
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