My ‘05 OBXT journal

[Infosecdad]

Have you figured out why it was clamped off?

 

My guess is that the heater core was leaking and that was the "solution".

It could be contributing to the issue, replacing the heater core isn't fun, but it might be something that you just need to bite the bullet and take care of.

[RumblyXT]

Have you figured out why it was clamped off?

 

My guess is that the heater core was leaking and that was the "solution".

It could be contributing to the issue, replacing the heater core isn't fun, but it might be something that you just need to bite the bullet and take care of.

 

I haven't figured yet why it was clamped, it all seems to indicate is leaking inside I assumed.

 

I'm going to replace the coolant with distilled water temporarily and unclamp it to test it. Don't want to end up with coolant in the cabin.

 

Is the cooling system able to function properly if the heater core has a bypass installed? I'm wondering about lack of coolant running through the system because of the bypass.

 

And are there any sensors between the heater core and the rest of the cooling system that would influence/interfere with proper cooling operation thereby creating this slight overheating?

 

Removing that dash and fixing the heater core? Hmmm... I don't know about all that. I have seen the ordeal it takes to do so.

[kzr750r1]

It's just another loop. So looping inside the car and or out should not matter.

Distilled water is a good first try and see but was done likely because of failure.

 

If I wasn't into a motor rebuild may have taken my dash apart for actuator motor replacement.

 

Have an entire center section from a wrecked car and all new actuators. If I don't use the center section it will be available. Car it came from had 65K on it. So the heater core should still be good.

[RumblyXT]

Ok, I see. Yeah, I can hear the typical popping/cracking sound of the failed actuator doors when driving.

 

Taking that dash out though, hmm I don't know..

 

But ok, if you do not get to use it, let me know, I might be interested.

[RumblyXT]

What about a vacuum leak?

 

Update: Never mind, vacuum leaks aren’t related to overheating.

Edited May 26, 2022 by RumblyXT

[kzr750r1]

Ok, I see. Yeah, I can hear the typical popping/cracking sound of the failed actuator doors when driving.

 

Taking that dash out though, hmm I don't know..

 

But ok, if you do not get to use it, let me know, I might be interested.

 

Trust me, not looking forward to pulling my dash out either.

Motor rebuild is easier. Been there done that.

[RumblyXT]

Worked on the car yesterday.. took out the rad, fans and alternator, installed a new Coolant Temperature Sensor and waiting on a new rad.

 

The current radiator seems to be leaking and/or maybe not sealing well, it also had a big impact on the inside between the fans.. We’ll see if the new one takes care of the issue.

 

there's coolant residue at the bottom as the radiator as if it has been leaking, not holding pressure

 

 

Testing radiator flow, used 1200 mL went in and out but it did take a few seconds for all the water to come out. Can't rule out if it's plugged, but it definitely seems to be leaking

 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2022 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Finally gathered the courage to remove the I/M and Wiring Harness. Took me a while to figure how it was attached on the bottom.

 

There's some oil/dirt on top by PCV Valve (to be replaced), rust on fuel lines and water pipes. All crank case hoses are hard and brittle, not worth using again, planning on replacing all of them too.

 

Was happy to find that the front turbo prop barely had any play and no oil around it.

 

Got lots of work to do..

 

 

 

 

 

Great pliers! Very helpful for pulling hoses and switches in tight places

Edited June 3, 2022 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Finished working on the 2WD 4Runner rear brakes today, replaced the wheel cylinders and brake fluid as well. Not a difficult job, just time consuming making sure everything turned out ok.

 

Time to start working on Rumbly now

[RumblyXT]

I don’t see a key hole on the Outback’s trunk like my older Forester had.

While I’m fixing the car and the battery is removed, is there a way to manually lock the trunk with the key??

[kzr750r1]

No

[xt2005bonbon]

I think there is a little cover at the bottom center of the trunk inside where you could manually lock it. You'd have to climb back in the trunk to unlock it though.

[Max Capacity]

I also don't think I've ever seen any way to lock the rear hatch with a key on a wagon.

[RumblyXT]

That’s odd.. first time I see a car without an key access to the trunk.

 

Thank you guys

[Max Capacity]

I believe on the bottom of the hatch, inside, there is a panel you can remove and there is a lever in there to release the latch.

[RumblyXT]

^^Thanks. I removed everything from the trunk just in case. Not sure about where you guys live but Miami has become a hell hole full of thieves. Almost every day, I get Ring notifications of cars stolen/vandalized around the area.

[Tehnation]

It's just another loop. So looping inside the car and or out should not matter.

Distilled water is a good first try and see but was done likely because of failure.

 

If I wasn't into a motor rebuild may have taken my dash apart for actuator motor replacement.

 

Have an entire center section from a wrecked car and all new actuators. If I don't use the center section it will be available. Car it came from had 65K on it. So the heater core should still be good.

 

You can get to the actuators without pulling the dashboard I thought? I was able to get to the passenger side actuators when one of them wasn't working right. I just opened it up cleaned it out, greased it and reinstalled.

[Tehnation]

I haven't figured yet why it was clamped, it all seems to indicate is leaking inside I assumed.

 

I'm going to replace the coolant with distilled water temporarily and unclamp it to test it. Don't want to end up with coolant in the cabin.

 

Is the cooling system able to function properly if the heater core has a bypass installed? I'm wondering about lack of coolant running through the system because of the bypass.

 

And are there any sensors between the heater core and the rest of the cooling system that would influence/interfere with proper cooling operation thereby creating this slight overheating?

 

Removing that dash and fixing the heater core? Hmmm... I don't know about all that. I have seen the ordeal it takes to do so.

 

If the coolant line going into the cabin for the heater core is clamped, then that should be why your overheating. When you clamp it, its no longer a loop, and the pressure for the system is going to be all screwed up. If your going to bypass the heater core, you need to run the inlet hose into the outlet hose. That excess pressure is going to have to go somewhere, and it might be either dropping the efficiency of your water pump, or creating excess pressure and is moving the fluid to fast or simply just clogging up your system. Any way you put it clamping a hose in your coolant system is no bueno! What would happen if you clamped any of the hoses to the radiator? bad things! But the main thing I think is that line that runs to the cabin comes from the crossover pipe which houses your coolant temp sensor, and if your screwing with that loop, its probably going to mess with the temps and flow in the crossover pipe. Don't forget that heater core is actually just a heat exchanger, so it acts like a radiator, so theres that as well. I am pretty sure thats the reason the your overheating, and bypassing might not be enough, the car might actually need that heater core to drop the temp some. Thats why cars with heater cores can stop overheating by blasting the heat in your car. And seeing how the coolant sensor isn't liking it, the coolant in the crossover pipe is getting hotter because you are taking out that loop. So coolant in the crossover pipe might not be moving fast enough....... if any of all that nonsense I just said makes sense let me know lol!

 

Pulling the dash is a god damn nightmare! I did it and it sucks, and you run the risk of damaging your dash. I have read that some people can pull the heater core from the driver side with the dash intact but when I pulled it the hard part was getting the actual core out of the main unit. But the heater core slides out to the left and the pipes spin so that gives you some room to play, so I can see how its possible. Still wouldn't want to do it regardless lol.

 

Edited June 19, 2022 by Tehnation

[silverton]

loop the heater core lines to remove it from the system and see if you still over heat.

[RumblyXT]

If the coolant line going into the cabin for the heater core is clamped, then that should be why your overheating. When you clamp it, its no longer a loop, and the pressure for the system is going to be all screwed up. If your going to bypass the heater core, you need to run the inlet hose into the outlet hose. That excess pressure is going to have to go somewhere, and it might be either dropping the efficiency of your water pump, or creating excess pressure and is moving the fluid to fast or simply just clogging up your system. Any way you put it clamping a hose in your coolant system is no bueno! What would happen if you clamped any of the hoses to the radiator? bad things! But the main thing I think is that line that runs to the cabin comes from the crossover pipe which houses your coolant temp sensor, and if your screwing with that loop, its probably going to mess with the temps and flow in the crossover pipe. Don't forget that heater core is actually just a heat exchanger, so it acts like a radiator, so theres that as well. I am pretty sure thats the reason the your overheating, and bypassing might not be enough, the car might actually need that heater core to drop the temp some. Thats why cars with heater cores can stop overheating by blasting the heat in your car. And seeing how the coolant sensor isn't liking it, the coolant in the crossover pipe is getting hotter because you are taking out that loop. So coolant in the crossover pipe might not be moving fast enough....... if any of all that nonsense I just said makes sense let me know lol!

 

Pulling the dash is a god damn nightmare! I did it and it sucks, and you run the risk of damaging your dash. I have read that some people can pull the heater core from the driver side with the dash intact but when I pulled it the hard part was getting the actual core out of the main unit. But the heater core slides out to the left and the pipes spin so that gives you some room to play, so I can see how its possible. Still wouldn't want to do it regardless lol.

 

[ATTACH]296435[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks. Yes, actually I understood everything you said and it makes total sense. After I removed the I/M and got a better look of how things are routed, I realize that's probably what's happening. The coolant flow has no passage to heater core since it's clamped and/or nothing returning either, so the stagnant coolant might overheat the whole system since the water pump keeps trying to push it.

 

I am not ready to get into the dash/heater core, I honestly don't have the time, it's too big of a project. Thankfully, in South FL, it's not such a big deal anyways. I plugged the heater core lines by the firewall and looped the in/out coolant lines, hopefully this will make things better.

 

I made some progress and removed the fuel lines along with the TGVs as well. TGVs are super dirty, normal I guess. I ordered some fuel lines that came with used injectors, they're probably in better working condition than the 212K mile ones that were on the car with signs of rust.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 20, 2022 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

This white connector coming off one of the hoses from the PCV, where do I connect it to the big Air Intake Hose? When I was removing parts, I couldn't see where it came off from and I didn't see one installed either.

 

Did Subaru send me the wrong PCV Assy? I'm pretty sure I ordered the correct one.

 

 

Anyways, I removed it from the PVC. Is this a useless connector?

 

[Infosecdad]

That looks like the correct PCV.

Are you using a stock turbo inlet? If so, that white part plugs into it.

If you have an aftermarket turbo inlet, it will vary depending on the brand.

[kzr750r1]

That connector is a ground loop that is useless. Must be plugged in or female connections looped on the harness side.

When I used the Perrin intake it was removed from the hose. Wire harness connected and tucked away.

[RumblyXT]

Are you using a stock turbo inlet? If so, that white part plugs into it.

If you have an aftermarket turbo inlet, it will vary depending on the brand.

 

Yeah I think that's why. My car came with a silicone aftermarket turbo Air Intake hose, it's made out of silicone and its ID is red in color, I don't see any brand markings on it though.. but it definitely doesn't have a port for the white connector.

 

I thought the white connector was maybe used on newer models. Just wanted to make sure for when it's time to put things back together.

[RumblyXT]

That connector is a ground loop that is useless. Must be plugged in or female connections looped on the harness side.

When I used the Perrin intake it was removed from the hose. Wire harness connected and tucked away.

 

I was wondering if the ground white connector had anything to do with static electricity..

 

Glad to know it will be ok without it. Thanks!