RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Man I tell you.. I was frustrated to say the least, specially after that misfire.. I’ll study and follow your process for the next time I try it. If others have do e it, so can I. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 (edited) I'm with Infosecdad.....I use a variety of extensions and bits to make it just enough for leverage in the space you have. Are they fun? Heck no. Are there worse plugs to change.....yupper. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Edited May 23, 2022 by whitexc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Right.. Yeah that’s what everyone’s experience indicate. I’m trying to avoid at all cost the socket staying in there, I think a magnetic one would probably be better for this job. I honestly don’t know when these were changed before, judging by the grommet getting stuck around the spark plug, it might be a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Ok to put anti seize on the Spark Plug threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 Yes, on the threads. Just not too much so it shmoos everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 (edited) Thank you. I was finally able to remove the #2 Spark Plug and gaped it at 0.030” Yes, I put just a bit on the threads and dielectric grease inside the Coil rubber so it wouldn’t get stuck. I realized that using a piece of 5/6 fuel hose is just perfect to hold the Spark Plug by the tip and start threading it in. But unfortunately the misfire won’t go away now. Should have left it alone and not remove anything from the beginning. The motor was just fine before.. Now I don’t know if it’s the Plug, the Coil or the Harness.. Jolly good.. Edited May 23, 2022 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 After installing the new Subaru OEM Thermostat today, the fans actually did turn On, but at 203 degrees! Then the temperature went down immediately to 194. Not really sure what's going on, if it's an intermittent electrical issue or whatnot. I'm waiting for a new OEM Coolant Temperature Sensor, to see if that makes things better. [ATTACH]296222[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]296221[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]296223[/ATTACH] 203F sounds about right I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 Agreed 203 sounds right to me as well. If you dont know the history it's cheap insurance, good idea to swap that sensor. Had an 89 CRX that had issues with the coolant sensor. It never cleared out of closed loop and always running rich. Once swapped all was good. Hopefully youll find why your getting the misfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 After installing the new Subaru OEM Thermostat today, the fans actually did turn On, but at 203 degrees! Then the temperature went down immediately to 194. Not really sure what's going on, if it's an intermittent electrical issue or whatnot. I'm waiting for a new OEM Coolant Temperature Sensor, to see if that makes things better. You're describing normal behavior. The thermostat is fully open at 196 degrees, and the radiator fan kicks in at 203-205 degrees per the FSM. If the A/C is on, it's a little sooner/lower temp for the high fans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Ok. Yeah it seems the overheating issue was the thermostat itself. After replacing it with a new OEM one, the bottom hose felt hot on the first try the car reached operating temp, meaning the thermostat opened. So it seems we resolved that issue. However, I haven't been able to test drive the car because now Cylinder#2 is misfiring, I want to avoid driving the car that way.. The misfire began as soon as I removed #2 Coil. I placed it back in before removing the plug and the misfire began. Then I finally learned to remove the #2 plug, gaped it correctly according to specs (0.030"). Put it back in, but the misfire remained.. Looking for possible solutions now.. Seems it could be different things, the Coil, the plug, the harness, injectors.. etc.. the car was already giving a hard time to start sometimes, that's why I think it could be other things besides the Coil. It was all fine till I removed that #2 Coil.. If you guys have any ideas, I'm all eyes/ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 Did you replace the #2 coil? I'm pretty sure that spring inside the boot is supposed to be attached to the coil itself. If the boot pulled off with the spring, then I can't imagine that coil will work correctly again. You could test by swapping #2 and #4 coils and see if the misfire follows (I highly suspect it will). Also could check the wiring connector, they get brittle with age/heat and may not be connected well enough now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Wait a sec...What spring inside what boot? The Coil pack boot itself is supposed to have a spring inside?! Oh crap.. that's why it's having the misfire!! My Dad did mention it lol.. "And that Coil pack boot is supposed to be on like that with nothing inside, Ok..?" My old man made quick sense of it even though he hadn't deal with this ignition system before.. Ha ha ha I honestly didn't see the spring, not sure if it flew out when I yanked on the boot. It was so stuck to the plug I had to pull it pretty hard with the long 90 degree needle nose pliers.. That's weird I didn't see any spring though.. I'll look around my driveway as soon as the Sun comes up. Thank you Infosecdad you are a live saver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 (edited) So the spring inside the boot goes from the tip of the spark plug to the interior portion of the Coil Pack facing the head? Of course right?.. Otherwise how would the Coil pack transmit current to the spark plug.. I feel so dumb right now.. hahaha I'm looking at Google pics of the Coil boot and spring and I'm wondering if the spring is pretty tightly hidden in there.. I honestly don't remember seeing any spring and/or didn't feel any resistance inside the boot when I ran a Q-tip with grease to prevent it from sticking to the plug. I'm hopeful this is what it is.. fingers crossed! Edited May 23, 2022 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 If you need some OEM (90k) coils just let me know and I’ll send them your way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 (edited) Infosecdad, hahaha I found the spring next to the tire! I owe you one. Thank you again! Edited May 24, 2022 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 (edited) The misfire is gone. ..but motor still overheating :/ Edited May 24, 2022 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 (edited) On to the main concern.. This mystery slight overheating, a bit above midline, sometimes getting into 3/4 temp gauge depending if the car gets driven hard, but temp never gets to redline What I've done so far/checked: replaced both rad caps No coolant leaks.. (only some residue in certain areas like hoses as if the system was over pressurized and a bit of coolant was escaping at the least resistant areas).. Radiator is clean, free of debris up front Fans kick in now normally Coolant has been replaced with OEM Subaru There is no coolant mixing with the oil, no residue on the oil cap No milkshake oil appearance Coolant is burped/air bled every time it’s been replaced Recent oil change looked totally normal/ black but normal There is no white smoke coming out the tail pipes whatsoever No oil leaks between heads and block Possible concerns/issue: 1. clogged radiator?? It looks used, but not super old/discolored. (running out of possible things to diagnose in the cooling system) 2. Head Gaskets?? Even though there are no apparent symptoms.. Hoping this is not the case Any ideas/suggestions highly appreciated Edited May 24, 2022 by RumblyXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 On to the main concern.. This mystery slight overheating, a bit above midline, sometimes getting into 3/4 temp gauge depending if the car gets driven hard, but temp never gets to redline What I've done so far/checked: replaced both rad caps No coolant leaks.. (only some residue in certain areas like hoses as if the system was over pressurized and a bit of coolant was escaping at the least resistant areas).. Radiator is clean, free of debris up front Fans kick in now normally Coolant has been replaced with OEM Subaru There is no coolant mixing with the oil, no residue on the oil cap No milkshake oil appearance Coolant is burped/air bled every time it’s been replaced Recent oil change looked totally normal/ black but normal There is no white smoke coming out the tail pipes whatsoever No oil leaks between heads and block Possible concerns/issue: 1. clogged radiator?? It looks used, but not super old/discolored. (running out of possible things to diagnose in the cooling system) 2. Head Gaskets?? Even though there are no apparent symptoms.. Hoping this is not the case Any ideas/suggestions highly appreciatedDo a hydrocarbon coolant test for the head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 Yeah, I've been thinking about it.. so much for MLS H/Gs.. Can the H/Gs be gone and not produce any visual symptoms? Like leaking oil, white smoke, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 Does the coolant level change over time as in you lose some? Heater core in good shape? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 Yeah, I've been thinking about it.. so much for MLS H/Gs.. Can the H/Gs be gone and not produce any visual symptoms? Like leaking oil, white smoke, etc.. If weeping a little yes, until it gets really bad. Do the hydrocarbon test to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 Does the coolant level change over time as in you lose some? Heater core in good shape? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Heater core is busted, I think. I have never used it. When I bought the car, the heater core inlet hose came clamped with pressure pliers, it’s still that way. I’ve been meaning to do a heater core bypass. Coolant on the overflow tank seems to go a bit low yes. It goes to the low level.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 If weeping a little yes, until it gets really bad. Do the hydrocarbon test to be sure. It’s not leaking oil at all between the heads and the block. H/Gs are totally dry of oil under the motor. The only oil it leaks underneath a little is by the valve cover gaskets. Yes, it’s in my plans to do the hydrocarbon test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 I was also planning on removing the radiator and flushing a good 2 gallons of distilled water it see if the same volume of water comes out the bottom.. I want to do the same with the block, flush it with water see if anything is stuck in the coolant passages preventing the flow.. Unsure if it could also be a bad water pump.. T/B was serviced 15K miles before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumblyXT Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 Should I be concerned about the heater core inlet hose being clamped off as possibly creating this slight overheating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now