limezest Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 (edited) Good day friends! I purchased a 2005 Manual Legacy GT wagon in ABP about a week ago and I've been slowly building a list of to-do items. I will use this thread to document and ask questions about the work. I really appreciate all the expertise and knowledge recorded on this here forum - really, thank you to everyone who has posted a DIY or walkthrough here over the years. I found this LGT on Facebook Marketplace in northern VA. The car was a high mileage (178k) one-owner with a good stack of dealer reciepts, and a tasteful, short list of mods. 177k - Spark Plugs 177k - Starter 177k - Timing Belt 177k - Water Pump 177k - Radiator Hoses 172k - Driver's Door Handle 150k - Valve Cover Gaskets 150k - Heater Core 112k - Clutch 112k - Driver's Front Axle 95k - Passenger Front Axle Seal Magnaflow Catback Catted Downpipe Catless Up-pipe Cobb APv3 What have I done already? Removed Tint Refinished Headlights Replaced Shifter Boot and Handbrake Boot (adjusted handbrake tension) Installed Vibrant Ultra-Quiet resonator to magnaflow un-resonated catback (but still too loud) First question: Should I try to find a complete stock catback and sell the magnaflow, or should I continue to hack up the magnaflow and have my exhaust shop put WRX dual tip cans (2015-2020) on it? I think this would look majestic, but I'm worried it'll still be too loud, and I'm torn about further cutting up this magnaflow setup. Someone out there probably would love this Magnaflow kit. I found that BRE (previously Borla) sells a complete catback for about $550. Edited December 22, 2021 by limezest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 (edited) High priority maintenance and diagnostic to-do list: front end links wipers rear sway bar bushings compression test leakdown test check for banjo filters change power steering fluid front axles replace oil cooler gaskets at first oil change Medium importance maintenance and mods: WRX steering wheel with cruise/audio controls JDM center console for 2DIN android auto nav+bluetooth Drivers seat heat Wideband Transmission fluid Rear diff fluid Sound deadener Edited December 22, 2021 by limezest added shifter boot install image Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Yes! Welcome aboard the build-thread train! Subscribed to follow the progress on this one. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 IDK who BRE are, but Borla catbacks typically run around $900. They're fairly rust-resistant but they'll fail like any other metal on the underside of the car. My car has no rust as it's been in the PNW its whole life, but the Borla appears to be coated to help aid in rust prevention. It is also not very loud. If you have a stock downpipe then it really is a nice, quiet volume. An aftermarket downpipe does make it a fair bit louder, and my Group N transmission mount causes a lot of the noise to end up in the cabin. I'm hoping a 6-speed swap from a Spec B down the line will quiet it down enough on the freeway (long 6th gear) that I'm not tempted enough to add another resonator. Good luck, and welcome to the forums! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 18, 2021 Author Share Posted December 18, 2021 (edited) Updates! Replaced both front axles (and discovered that it has SPC front camber bolts) Replaced all sway bar bushings (rears are 22mm whiteline, fronts are stock size moog) replaced front sway bar end links discovered it has perrin rear sway bar mount reinforcement plates replaced engine air filter confirmed banjo filter had already been removed from forward bolt hole (still need to check under turbo) scoped out the turbo compressor side impeller - thoughts? photos follow. I'm not opposed to a BNR 16G or VF52 swap, but i wouldn't want to go for more power until i know the crank bearings and pistons are in good shape. Maybe we queue up a bearing/piston/head rebuild and a 350WHP target for the 250k mi milestone. The rear diff is in rough shape, definitely needs a fluid change. I'd like to pull the rear subframe and replace all the bushings back there, as well as de-rust and paint. Edited December 22, 2021 by limezest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 Today finally made it through state inspection! Had an exhaust shop weld in the borla stock cat-back. It is so quiet now. And honestly butt dyno says its slower. Dunno if the backpressure really makes that much of a difference, but it feels like it is taking longer to get up into boost. I have a datalog that I can compare against. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 Congratulations! Isn't it a relief once you get passed annual inspection. I'm always worried that a problem will arise weeks before I get the car inspected. Although, for the last 3yrs I have had out-of-state exemptions, so it hasn't weighed on me what it used to. My registration expires in February, and I think that's when I'll decide to go with my old vanity plates. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) Butt-dyno update: I suspect the ECU needed time to adjust to the higher exhaust backpressure, maybe re-learn the boost control targets. It's feeling better. Should I do an ECU re-flash? Maybe down to stage 1 91? It's at stage2 93 right now and I'm more concerned about reliability than performance (for now, anyway). Ordered the rest of the parts for my oil cooler rebuild: the hard pipe that runs from the water pump to the oil cooler is looking pretty rusty - found the OEM part for like $30 shipped. I have the magnaflow catback ready to list, but i don't have access to the buy+sell section yet. Maybe my 10th post will unlock access. Edited December 23, 2021 by limezest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Good work! It's 15 posts to unlock the classifieds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 I’ve been eyeballing that ultra quiet resonator. Did it make any difference? I’ve been wanting to do a 3” single exit on my outback for about a year now but I don’t want to deal with drone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 The vibrant ultra quiet resonator is extremely well made and it did cut down on the volume and drone substantially. It was still too loud for the wife though. I would recommend adding a helmholtz resonator tuned for ~70Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) Just got around to reading this thread, sorry. That's not where the banjo filters are located. They are on the front drivers side head, behind timing belt cover. and rear passenger side head. See the open spot in that oil feed tube. I think there's a sticky about removing them... Edited December 23, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Today finally made it through state inspection! Had an exhaust shop weld in the borla stock cat-back. It is so quiet now. And honestly butt dyno says its slower. Dunno if the backpressure really makes that much of a difference, but it feels like it is taking longer to get up into boost. I have a datalog that I can compare against. FWIW, I feel my wagon with the vf52 and stock midpipe has better throttle response then with a 3" midpipe. My heads also have mild porting done to them down in the valve pocket and the dividers are thinned. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html Old member, HAMMERDOWN has a DIY for the front banjo bolt filter removal. You grind off the knob on the top of the bolt and you can back it out without removing the belt cover. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 Thank you for the links - very helpful! New steering wheel arrived, looking forward to hooking up the double din android auto receiver. I'm considering a standalone wideband, my downpipe has a provision for one at the bellmouth. Is there an advantage to installing a wideband such an an AEM UEGO? I understand the factory O2 goes from about 11-20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 Use one if your tuner suggests it. If you tune your car at a shop with a dyno, I'm pretty sure they don't need that sort of thing installed in your car by you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 I agree, ask your tuner. A dyno tuner would likely install their own UEGO in the second bung near the bellmouth. They could compare readings for accuracy on your gauge but would use theirs for the tune. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 28, 2021 Author Share Posted December 28, 2021 Before I go see a tuner, I want to make sure i've addressed everything I can to ensure its running well. For instance, dealing with boost leaks. My ECU is calling for 16.2 psi and i'm making 14.6 max. It may surprise you to learn that my intercooler is leaking at the crimps to the plastic end-tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 That's not surprising whatsoever. You can give a quick search on our forum for "Intercooler bulletproofing" and go grab yourself some JB weld, or do yourself a favor and get a TMIC from Perrin/Grimmspeed/AVO (unless you plan to go FMIC, then talk to your tuner about that too). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 It’d surprise me it it wasn’t leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 Sarcasm doesn't translate well through text. I was not surprised either. I've been absorbing as much as I can through these very helpful forums. I hadn't considered JB welding the c-channel in place, but thanks for the recommendation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 Your sarcasm was loud and clear lol. I had luck with tightening the crimps with pliers before switching to my eBay top mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 And you did snap a cool pic of the smoke billowing out! Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limezest Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 ebay top mount? like these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/152648426140?epid=2157435909&hash=item238a8e229c:g:wGkAAOSwEgZZgrg1 this appears to fit reasonably well. Did you buy one like this? did you need to modify it to fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 (edited) That exact intercooler. Out of the box it didn’t fit well and interfered with the banjo bolt for the clutch slave. I ground it down just enough to fit then it hit the bracket on the pitch mount that holds the ac line on the firewall, just had to bend that slightly. I also used the avo throttle body hose which I couldn’t imagine getting this to work without and I also used the mr gasket #738G Chevy gasket for the turbo flange. It took some work to get it to fit straight and look good but in the end I was happy with how it turned out. I bought it to be temporary and one day I’d like to go front mount to try and help combat the insane heat soak this thing gets in the 115° az summer. Another thing to note is mine is in an outback and the engine sits higher in the bay on a legacy since it doesn’t have subframe spacers, so you might not have the same clearance issue with the pitch mount bracket I did. The motor mounts in my car are very worn and if I ever get around do installing my group n mounts I suspect the engine will sit a little higher which may have solved the issue with the ac bracket. Please ignore how filthy my engine bay looks, at some point a dealer sprayed something on it to try and make it “shine” and it’s coming off like old clear coat. https://imgur.com/RshGtty Edited December 29, 2021 by blackobxt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now