Surging/misfires/hesitation

[evil03mustang]

So today I’m on my way to work and suddenly any time I’m in the throttle even slightly aggressive the car hesitates and lurches like the throttle is slamming shut at More than 60% pedal input.

 

Car has 187,000 miles and might be on factory spark plugs.

 

What else should I be changing out?

 

I have a vag-com and rom raider so I can log it, but I don’t have enough experience with rom raider to know how to review the logs or what I should specifically be logging.

 

Like.. if I just floor it, it stumbles then tries to haul ass then stumbles again. It’s just.. idk, acting like the throttle blade is slamming shut. The CEL flashes while it does this but goes away when I calm down.

 

I was under the car earlier putting screw clamps on the heat shields and hosing down all the rust with spray galvanizer. Could overspray have gotten into something?

 

It has been prefect and rock solid since I bought it in March, so this is kind of abrupt and I’m not sure where to start.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bdcvg]

Well factory plugs is not good. Even the best iridiums are only good for 80k at best. Bad or weak fuel pump is a possibility. Huge vacuum leak is a possibilty. You need to start eliminating easy stuff ONE at a time. This is where the Cobb AP or the btssm app is best for realtime reading.

[evil03mustang]

Well factory plugs is not good. Even the best iridiums are only good for 80k at best. Bad or weak fuel pump is a possibility. Huge vacuum leak is a possibilty. You need to start eliminating easy stuff ONE at a time. This is where the Cobb AP or the btssm app is best for realtime reading.

 

 

What items should I monitor with SSM? I have that. I was logging with romraider recently just to gauge overall health and everything looked great… until it didn’t.

 

I haven’t logged anything since it threw the code. No time. It’s been parked because a brake line burst. I just got that fixed up, but now the stupid brake warning light is still on for whatever reason. Yes I replaced the line with an oem part and used Subaru brake fluid and bled the system.. as best I could, considering the bleeders are all frozen solid and the bleeding was done at the new line fitting..

 

Starting to wonder if this thing might be a bad investment. I keep finding nastiness.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bdcvg]

You will never get a good bleed at a line fitting. Get the bleeders loose or use a bleeder extractor if they break. Check for fine knock learn and a high AFR correction #. I think above 4 is too high when warm. It the FKLC is more than 2 degrees it"s probably vacuum leaks. If it still has the original intake tube from turbo to filter box it"s probably torn.

[evil03mustang]

You will never get a good bleed at a line fitting. Get the bleeders loose or use a bleeder extractor if they break. Check for fine knock learn and a high AFR correction #. I think above 4 is too high when warm. It the FKLC is more than 2 degrees it"s probably vacuum leaks. If it still has the original intake tube from turbo to filter box it"s probably torn.

 

 

Yeah I wouldn’t be the least bit surprised if the inlet is buggered up. Never seen an old one that wasn’t.

 

I’ll hook up the laptop and log these values.

 

It definitely needs 4 coil packs.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk