MUD Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 I ran a few searches here... and came up pretty much empty handed. Okay.. there was one thread.... but it didn't really help. So it's either: A: There hasn't been much discussion on the topic or B: I'm a retard. *If this information is in fact available some where on this site... please refer me to that link.... and then promptly tell me to STFU! It's okay.... I'm used to it! Scenario: I'm planning on slapping on some 225.45 W300s on the stock 17" wheels right along with some Cusco F&R anti-sway bars AND perhaps some Ion springs. I'm not really enjoying the recession of the factory wheels/tires within the wheel well from the edge of the wheel well. I was thinking that maybe some spacers could place the wheels a tad further (not much needed) towards the outside of the vehicle simply for aesthetic purpouses. Questions: What size spacers would I need to accomplish this with the given tire size I'm planning? Where would I be able to find such spacers? *Link if you have it please.* Most important: How would the usage of these spacers effect the SAFETY, handling & stability of the vehicle with the other intended modifications to suspension above? I'd like to have the flush look when glancing down the side of the car.... but NOT at the expense of my safety whilest driving with spirit! Side Question: In contrast to the stock LGT setup, how would running the Ion Springs, Cusco F&R anti-sway bars & 225.45 Hankook W300 tires perform? Thanx in advance for any information anybody inclines to contribute to my limited knowledge base! It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red beast Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 the spec b 3.0r rims i have from japan needed spacers because of the difference of offsets. with my research i have found out that: we have a 8mm hub lip and a 3mm non-hubcentric spacer is the the most you can go. these can be found on ebay. next step are hubcentric spacers that "move" the lip out so your rims still are supported properly and safely. h and r springs sell hubcentric spacers with new wheel studs. you will need to buy 2 sets. they also require you to replace all wheel studs. this is easy on the front but the back takes more time due to the angle of the studs as the come out of the back of the hub. the rear hubs need to be pulled out. these are the only ones out there http://www.hrsprings.com/ these are the TRAK+wheel spacers. high quality made in germany sizes are drs 5mm ($69x2), drs 15mm ($120x2) (the ones i have) , and drm 25mm ($150x2) stud install at $57/hr labor cost $180 always keep a full set (20) open end lug nuts in the car. the subie closed end lug nuts will not work if you take off the spacers and put the old rims or the spare on. ......................................................drs.....................................................................drm http://www.hrsprings.com/site/products/images/spacers4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted December 3, 2005 Author Share Posted December 3, 2005 Would .12" be visually noticable? I'd rather not have to go through that whole ordeal you've listed. I'd rather just purchase some 18x7.5 wheels w/ the proper offset (48-50) to avoid such hassle. I just thought that maybe there was a simpler & more labor effecient method! It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red beast Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 convert-me http://www.convert-me.com/en/ .12"=3.048mm not noticeable until 15mm=.59"(1/2"+) you need to measure, measure, and hen your done measure again. trouble areas are inner rear between tire and strut. inner front between tire and strut. turning the wheel 20 degrees and hitting the front bumper at the inside fender well with the tire. for a gt i would add the fender lips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 with stock, you can add a 5mm, 7mm, 10mm, 13mm or 15mm spacer just fine.. You need a spacer that is not hub centric (unless you want it to be) and that it's just a 5x100 with a center bore larger than 56.1mm. I maybe wrong, but you can even get away with a 20mm spacer if you rolled your fenders. General Rule: 25.4mm = 1" Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Questions: What size spacers would I need to accomplish this with the given tire size I'm planning? Where would I be able to find such spacers? *Link if you have it please.* Most important: How would the usage of these spacers effect the SAFETY, handling & stability of the vehicle with the other intended modifications to suspension above? I'd like to have the flush look when glancing down the side of the car.... but NOT at the expense of my safety whilest driving with spirit! Side Question: In contrast to the stock LGT setup, how would running the Ion Springs, Cusco F&R anti-sway bars & 225.45 Hankook W300 tires perform? Thanx in advance for any information anybody inclines to contribute to my limited knowledge base! A) Try 15mm spacers, that should push you very far out already and you dont need longer studs.. that's really pushing it out.. you might want to double check your studs.. but I think you can get away with 15 on the safe side. B) Please do a search on http://www.google.com or even on ebay for "wheel spacers" you'll come up with a lot of places to buy them.. try to buy the billet aluminum ones that just have holes and no addition studs or lugs.. you are just looking for a round plate with holes. C) Pushing out the wheels won't hurt the safety of the car, however, you are close of putting stress on the wheel bearings in a way (since you are physically moving the tires out vs. getting wider tires to increase the track. If you are purely doing it for the looks, get new rims that sit more flush.. if you really like the stock rims that much, just get 10mm spacers and make them a +45mm offset wheel instead of it being an original +55 offset wheel. D) You are putting stiffer parts for snow use = not a good thing.. for the snow, you want a softer setup, that way it's less to upset the car and it's weight transfer would be more pronounced.. If you are serious about running around a lot in the snow, I would just take off the rear-sway to make things easier.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red beast Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 do not rely on your studs only to take the load. get the hubcentric ones for safety! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted December 3, 2005 Author Share Posted December 3, 2005 I'll look into a 10mm spacer to see if that'll cure my aesthetic peeve. The reason I wanted to know about the spacers.... was because I can't afford to just go throwing money at vendors to try 10 different types of wheels in a year. I'm not mod'n the suspensio for snow-play either. I'm doing it for when the roads are dry (or wet). I can have a blast in the snow in a 2wd beat up truck! I wanna be able to push the car farther & harder than I can now when the roads ARE dry, but still be able to safely get through traffic when the snow DOES start stacking up! Even though most sites list those W300s as "winter tires" they look to be more of an all season to me. The 404s on the other hand..... are entirely too aggressive for what I need. I wanted something that could flat out out-perform the RE92 on dry/wet surface.... and get me home safe when the snow/ice start to build up! Guess I'll have to wait & see how much better than stock this setup willl be. Thanx again gents! It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Wish Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Don't use the floating type. Use the bolt on ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 do not rely on your studs only to take the load. get the hubcentric ones for safety! +1 Studs are only designed to take tensile stress not shear stress. You run the risk of shearing the stud otherwise. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 ^^Werd. I'll see what I can find. It may be a while.... but I'll report back with pictures & feedback when I do, cause I REALLY wanna see the wheel/tire come further towards the outside of the vehicle! I know, I know.... it's merely looks.... but still.... it's my car right!? It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 do not rely on your studs only to take the load. get the hubcentric ones for safety! your lug nuts will center the wheel once you tighten them.. the threads on the studs and lug nuts do not take a the beating of the load.. it's the spoke of your wheels and the hub itself.. the studs and the lugs only have the duty to keep the wheel against the hub.. there is a certain limit to where you can also over tighten a lug nut too and causing too much stress on the threads. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Don't use the floating type. Use the bolt on ones. you can't use a studded one when the spacers are less than a few mm.. I would stay away from the studded because not all of them are built with the same metal as your stock studs.. the types of metal can yield different tensile strengths.. when people want to get bigger spacers, it's a better idea to get longer studs of the right metal. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucktoo Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 If you needs longer studs check out NISMO ones they come up to 60 mm long and are higher strength. I don't have part numbers with me there are a couple of discussions on Nasioc about them. I am convinced the best long term answers is to convert to 2005 STi hubs with 5x114.3 bolt patteren. I won't have this done till Spring when car goes to Phoenix next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted December 5, 2005 Author Share Posted December 5, 2005 Don't need 60mm spacers, nor do I want to convert to STi.... yet! HaHa! Thanx for the info gents! It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 Holy resurrection! I need some 3mm spacers. Do I need to get longer studs too? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I need to get the spacers to install brembo's behind the stock rims while I can get the money for the 10 inch tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I had the H&R 15mm spacers on my obxt for a lil while I was getting new wheels to fit over the Brembos. Swaping the studs is pretty easy. The extra offset was very noticeable. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigT Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 do not rely on your studs only to take the load. get the hubcentric ones for safety! I was thinking about spacers for a brembo kit and heard the same thing. I think eibach makes a nice set. Expensive though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Hubcentric rings do not carry any load. They are plastic. They are there to properly center the wheel so that when you torque the lugs, that the wheel is already centered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Umm... i never have seen, or would put near my car, plastic wheel spacers My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Sorry. I was referring to red beast's comment about not relying upon the studs alone to take load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red beast Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Sorry. I was referring to red beast's comment about not relying upon the studs alone to take load. not quite! that lip is there to take the pressure. the studs just hold it tight to it. Hubcentric rings do not carry any load. They are plastic. They are there to properly center the wheel so that when you torque the lugs, that the wheel is already centered. no, they are NOT plastic! the are machined steel. they have a tight fitment, no play i have a set on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Where did you get them from? The ones that tirerack gives out are plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red beast Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 read post #2 these are the only good ones out there for the legacy they are also used on high-end vehicles. http://www.hrsprings.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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