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Motorbreath's "The Hard Way" 2010 2.5GT Restore and Build


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On 8/14/2022 at 8:18 AM, FLlegacy said:

I may still have my stock bcs and bracket, and I definitely have a turbo inlet if you need it. I will check tonight, they are yours for the shipping cost if you want them.

That is AWESOME! I really appreciate it! I will make one last ditch attempt tonight and PM tomorrow.

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I got serious with the rusted-together BCS/bracket and was able to get it apart and the screws out. Thanks to FLlegacy for the offer, knowing there was a spare out there that I could count on really reduced my stress level.

I am beat today, but tomorrow I am going to connect the 3-port Tactrix BCS and load the base map from Shinji Tuned. Hopefully I'll get the logging done too, I plan on using Btssm for that so I do not need to drive around with the laptop.

I am going to zip-tie the BCS to the turbo inlet for now, but I will try to make an aluminum bracket similar to what Grimmspeed provides for their BCS. I'll get some longer screws for the Grimmspeed adaptor (installed in picture below) and attach the Tactrix BCS to that. Here is a link to the setup using the Grimmspeed BCS,

https://www.grimmspeed.com/electronic-boost-control-solenoid-3-port-15-21-wrx-fa20/

 

PXL_20220816_233450327.jpg

PXL_20220816_233504906.jpg

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I was so excited, I got the BCS mounted in true "you might be redneck" fashion (see pic), but then I go to plug the adapter into the plug off the wiring harness and it does not fit!!! The Tactrix website only has one Subaru option, so I did not make a mistake, do fifth gens have a unique plug for the BCS?!

The only thing I can think of is to buy a generic two prong plug to install, but I really was not expecting this...stuck at the very last step!PXL_20220817_211840047.thumb.jpg.02f6fda0f9a4cab8c8eaf2615b9c0511.jpg

 

 

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So I took some pictures for reference and also noted that the box from Tactrix indicates that this is the kit for the WRX 2015+/FA20 engine. When I purchased it there was no option to specify which engine, which is still the case on Tactrix's website.

I have attached pictures, top pic is the plug from the engine harness and bottom pic is the plug from the provided adapter. The plug is too large and the alignment slot is centered on the harness plug, offset on the adaptor (to the right in the picture).

PXL_20220817_232627948.jpg

PXL_20220817_232705566.jpg

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I have determined what the issue is from looking at 3-port BCSs made by Grimmspeed and Cobb. Taking Grimmspeed as an example, their BCS for 08-14 WRX, 05-09 LGT, 9-13 FXT has the same connector as was provided by Tactrix. However, their BCS for 2015-21 WRX/FA20/2010-2012 LGT has the same connector as my stock BCS.

I have contacted Tactrix so that they can correct their website, I assume I am the only one to try to use a Tactrix BCS because they responded that this is the only connector for Subaru they have ever sold.

So the question is, do I try to find or make a connector to use the Tactrix BCS that I have (saving $$$), or do I just order the Grimmspeed BCS that has the correct connector (spending $$$). I am not really a fan of Cobb, so I am not interested in their BCS, thus these are my two options. Until then, my favorite car is essentially a paperweight.

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Last night I readjusted the position of the exhaust pipe under the transmission as suggested earlier in the thread, the knocking is gone now. Installed version 2 of the OS tune from Shinji Tuned and did some logging.

Lots more torque from 3-4k compared to stock, which really improves the feel of the car. It's been about 3 months since I took it off the road to replace the turbo and j-pipe, it's good to have it back on the road!

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On 7/26/2022 at 9:12 PM, dgoodhue said:

I think you're missing one of the turbo shields. This are 4 shields totals, one on the turbo itself, top, middle and lower. The top shield has 2 bolts to the middle and one to the shield.  I don't see the shield around the turbo in your picture. The lower shield which you aren't installing would also tie them all together as well.  

Just to confirm, I can drop the turbo sump without having to drain the oil, correct?

I need to install this heat shield that I missed the first time around.

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Yes you can either pull the sump off the turbo and tie it off to the side to drop the manifold down or you can undo the oil feed/return lines and take the whole thing down without affecting the engine oil. You might spill a few drops but nothing significant.

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Thanks to both of you for the information, I should have the missing heat shield by Monday. I also bought new exhaust manifold studs and nuts, I want to replace the existing ones that have the stud/nut fused together.

I also have the third revision of the ECU firmware from Shinji Tuned, so I'll do some logging for that.

After trying to figure out what DBW is from one of his emails, I found one of the most interesting posts I've ever read about Subaru's drive by wire system,

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1537010

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I'll have the heat shield and exhaust studs tomorrow, while I have the skid plate off installing these parts over the weekend I am going to inspect how difficult it is to replace all of the engine mounts and transmission ?bushings?.

The open-source tune with Shinji Tuned is going VERY well, mid-range torque is much higher according to my butt dyno. However, I am feeling a bit of "slop" in the drivetrain that bothers me, so I think I mounts and bushings need to be replaced.

Should I go aftermarket or OEM? Aftermarket engine mounts are available and Subaru wants $$$ for theirs. For the transmission bushings I do not think I have an option other than OEM.

 

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There are inserts for the rear trans mount, or you can get the solid mount from a 5mt subaru. I think there is a group N one which is stiffer than stock. 

The side mounts and front mount are available aftermarket or oem. Aftermarket is going to add a lot of NVH but if you don't mind that no issues there. You might also look into rear diff inserts or bushings that tends to cause some play as well.

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20 hours ago, FLlegacy said:

You might also look into rear diff inserts or bushings that tends to cause some play as well.

I already had the front subframe replaced due to rust-related failure, I'll probably need to do the same with the rear subframe. I think I'll get new bushings with the subframe and I think I can replace it myself to save $$$. Keeping these cars on the road is a whole different experience in the rust belt!

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On 9/1/2022 at 8:47 AM, FLlegacy said:

The side mounts and front mount are available aftermarket or oem. Aftermarket is going to add a lot of NVH but if you don't mind that no issues there. You might also look into rear diff inserts or bushings that tends to cause some play as well.

The front engine mount looks like it's easily replaceable, but the side mounts not so much... but after spending some time under the car I noticed that the transmission mount (41022AJ090) seems to be missing a stud. Picture attached, this might explain the slop I am feeling in the drivetrain, thoughts?

PXL_20220904_184348103.jpg

Edited by motorbreath
added part number
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Maybe some, but probably not as much as you're hoping.  I'd have to wander out to the garage to look at the one I pulled off of the Baja, but I believe those studs are both anchored into the same steel plate, so as long as that second stud is still there and tight, the bottom of the mount can't really go all that far.  Not really what you'd call ideal, though, that's for sure.

 

The Group N mount is more or less solid rubber, as compared to the OE mount that has a couple of big windows through it.  Definitely helps some, but it's no silver bullet.  Here's the link I have bookmarked for the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-D1010FE020-Transmission-Mount/dp/B00I7967OO

...and for comparison, here's a link to the stock one out of the Baja (should be the same as the Legacy unit- I moved the OE piece from the Legacy over to the Baja when I installed the Group N mount in the Legacy, didn't really make a difference): https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-41022AC180-Transmission-Mount/dp/B00I798SFK

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On 9/4/2022 at 7:11 PM, cww516 said:

The Group N mount is more or less solid rubber, as compared to the OE mount that has a couple of big windows through it.  Definitely helps some, but it's no silver bullet.  Here's the link I have bookmarked for the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-D1010FE020-Transmission-Mount/dp/B00I7967OO

I think I am going to go with either the OEM or there are a few very affordable aftermarket ones from Rock Auto. I think I will need to do this soon, though, see how it affects the slop I am feeling, then replace engine mounts if there is not much improvement.

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2 hours ago, motorbreath said:

I think I am going to go with either the OEM or there are a few very affordable aftermarket ones from Rock Auto. I think I will need to do this soon, though, see how it affects the slop I am feeling, then replace engine mounts if there is not much improvement.

Find an oem mount for older model 5mts that is a solid mount and should run the same cost as our stock one. If i can find the PN I will edit and add it here. It is what I installed and no issues with fitment.

Edit-Same one as mentioned above on Amazon.

Edited by FLlegacy
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22 minutes ago, FLlegacy said:

Find an oem mount for older model 5mts that is a solid mount and should run the same cost as our stock one.

OK, the I'll find the best price on a solid mount and while I'm under there I'll replace the "crossmember pad bushings", there is a Whiteline kit for that which is pretty affordable.

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So I installed the missing front heat shield, it was really tricky! I had to remove the turbo oil pan and the coolant hard lines. The heat shield was slightly misformed, so getting the holes for the bolts lined up took me at least 20 minutes of fiddling.

Anyway, it's done, I'll do the transmission mount next week.

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So after my self-imposed tuning fiasco, ShinjiTuned provided me with a revised "low boost" mapping which keeps pressures closer to 18psi. I still need to install the transmission mount, which will hopefully solve/reduce some shuddering at lower speed, along with the clutch damper delete.

After a decent amount of work on this car over the summer, I am super-happy with its performance with the stock turbo, 3-port BCS, and turbo-back exhaust. There is a ton more torque in the mid-range, which is really where I mainly need it. I am doubting whether or not I want to go the hybrid turbo route at all, even though I already have the injectors, fuel pump and wideband sensor.

I think I might just sell these unused parts to recover ?most? of the money I spent, but that into installing ARP studs head studs so I can run the stock block at the higher pressures (20-22psi) that my original tune was giving me.

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