vanman Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 I was able to get a hefty screwdriver into the engine stand, the flex-plate and a crevices in the engine to hold the crank. And then it was easy to get 133 ft lb on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 Got the engine back in. It took some jostling because we don’t have a cherry picker, just a chain fall wrapped around a rafter. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 (edited) We were putting things together when I remember that we had to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. Well of course the bolt hole didn’t line up. After some thought, my son was able to probe the flex plate hole feeling for the torque converter bolt hole while I rotated it with a screwdriver from below. Once the first one was in, the rest were easy. I had left the bottom cover off as some have suggested. Good thing I did otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to rotate the torque converter. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited January 24, 2021 by vanman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 We are so frustrated now. We went to start her up and we get an Er HC. I researched it and there doesn’t appear to be any definitive fix. One person on Reddit changed his whole wiring harness, another found faulty ground, another found a sb7 fuse blown. How many ground points are there? I know of 3, one on each side of the heads and the one near the starter. The driver side ground was actually broken before and I just repaired it today. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Any chance the two green connectors under the glove box on the passenger side (right above the carpet) are connected? They aren't supposed to be unless you are running diagnostics or flashing the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 Found this from MaxCapacity in 2014 He said to check the ground at the posts to the far left (left of the heater hoses connection). So I checked them and there was no wire that I could see attached to them. Also the nuts were only finger tight. So I look for the grounding cables in that area and I don’t see them. Then I look closer and I see some connectors attached to the posts going in towards the engine. So I decide to just tighten the nuts up. Voila la. No more error code. I haven’t started the car yet because during my research, I found out that the cylinders 1 and 3 ignition plugs are switched. It’s suppose to be white to the front. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Well, in a way, that was a good thing that you had to work on this and then found out that you switched the ignition plugs. So yeah, white in the front and blacks in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 It cranks over. I’ll wait until my son gets off work to start it. I cranked it until the oil light went off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Good. So you have oil pressure then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 It started right up. It sounds good. There was smoke that I thought would clear up but it didn’t. We traced it to the infamous performance oil line. And specifically the oil filter. It turns out it wasn’t tighten down. It still took 20 mins for the residual oil to burn off but there doesn’t appear to be anymore leaks. The group n motor mounts and the pitch stop seem to make the OBXT more responsive. There’s still a CEL. I’ll go to O’Reillys tomorrow to check it out and maybe reset it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 I had an initial p0700 code (transmission). I had it cleared. I checked the transmission fluid and it looked good. It hasn’t returned. A few hours later, I got a cylinder 3 misfire code. I think I have a broken connector. Hopefully that will be it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Zip tie for the win! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 I looked at the connector and the yellow piece that should be up front is gone. Also, it looks like the pins are just wiggling around inside the connector. I ordered some and they should be here tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 Got the connectors. Instead of spicing the connector in, I just took it apart and used the existing pins to repin the connector. There are YouTube’s for this. Make sure the colored wire is towards the tab, the black wire is on the other end and the black/yellow wire is in the middle. I mixed it up initially and still had a misfire. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 My heart sank. Three weeks ago, I was test driving the car after changing the oil after 50 miles. I had notice a small amount of coolant coming from the driver side before I took the test drive. The car started to sputter and then died. It would restart for about 2 seconds and then die again. I had to trailer it home. At least it started enough so that I could at least lurch it up the trailer. I was so dejected that I gave up on it for a while and then the cold set in. I finally got back to it yesterday. I checked the oil and it was clean and right at the full line. So now I'm hopeful that it wasn't a blown head gasket. I thought maybe fuel related and I checked the fuel lines and everything looked ok. I then checked the vacuum lines and everything looked ok. Then I noticed the intake to the throttle had slipped off. That made me a lot happier. 10 minutes of finagling the intercooler around to get it on the throttle, it started right up. I tightened up the lower radiator hose and everything is good there now. Now on to the WRX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Do you have the BtSsm app or a Cobb device? If not, you should definitely use one of these. After all of this work you did, I would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinEdgar Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Just read through this thread and I'm very impressed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Thanks. It’s very rewarding when it actually started. I drove it on a 200 mile round trip yesterday and everything ran great. There’s a small coolant leak on the turbo side. We’ll tighten up all the coolant lines on that side this weekend. We’ll look into the BtSsm. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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