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What to do? Broken timing belt 05 Outback XT AT


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We power washed the heads, valve covers and the front part that bolts the cam shafts down. We washed all the small parts including the bolts.

 

We did a semi TGV delete by taking the plates out. We’ll keep the motors and sensor plugged in for now so we don’t get a CEL. Does anybody know if we can delete the motor and the sensor from the ECU? I know we can delete the warning.

 

Any suggestions for motor mounts, keeping in mind it’s an AT.

 

 

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We have the Infamous Performance oil by pass (version 1, I think). What is the current thought on it? Keep it or use OEM without the banjo filters. As far as I know, it’s done us good for 60000 miles.

 

 

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We got the gasket set in. We put in a Moroso oil pickup and put the oil pan back on yesterday.

 

Today, we put the valve seals, the valves, spring seat, spring, retainers and keepers in.

 

Tomorrow, we’ll put the heads on, valves buckets, and cams.

 

 

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We put the valve buckets, cams and caps back on. We used rtv, and the measured the valve clearances. Of course some of them were off and so, we took the caps off. I noticed that there was RTV in the oil channels (all 4 of them). Good thing I had to take this off again. We’ll be much more sparing next time.b871b241a79a14071b40f464bc68740d.jpg

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We got the cam seals and valve covers put back on. We did another leak down test. The results for cylinders 1, 3, 2 and 4 are 5, 10, 5, and 5%. So it looks like cylinder 1 is fixed.

 

We are awaiting silicone hoses from Amazon for a 2008 WRX. Should be here on Monday. I report back on the fitment.

 

Since the engine is out, should I change the rear main seal? It’s not leaking at all. I got 3 of them in the kit.

 

 

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We put as many coolant hoses on as possible today. Here is my review. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/question-there-complete-silicone-hose-set-readily-availablei-275834p3.html

 

We also put on the oil dipstick, the left back timing belt cover (also scrubbed off the foam gaskets and put new ones on) and the tensioner bracket.

 

Waiting for vacuum hoses now.

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Since the engine is out, we could see that both inner CV boots were cracked open as well as the driver side steering rod boot. We changed all three of these. Boy what a mess that is.

 

 

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We scooped out all the grease we could and then added fresh grease.

 

We also found out how soft aluminum is. We stripped one the bolt hole for the crossover tube. We put a heli-coil into it and then we did it again. So, we’re getting pretty good at putting the heli-coils in.

 

 

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We broke the TGV sensor near the turbo. 86161846d53401fd6defb12b97a1b779.jpg

Will this suck air through it? Or can I just glue it back together. I’ve done the tgv semi deletes by taking the flaps out.

 

 

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We're only using them so they don't throw a CEL. I found out they're same part as a throttle position sensor and found one for $10 plus shipping.

 

We put the rear seal on....twice. I put it in with a mallet the first time and it went in too deep and cockeyed. I to tear it up to get it out.

 

Any suggestions to tighten the crank/harmonic balancer bolt on an automatic transmission?

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