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[RustyShackleford]

SORRY ABOUT SILLY THREAD NAME, APPARENTLY CAN'T EDIT IT NOW

 

I've purchased a JBL 601C "component" speaker system for my '06 Outback, which includes 6-1/2" speakers to replace the stock lower front-door speakers and tweeters to replace the stock tweeters.

 

I intend to drive this from the stock head-unit (without a separate amp or sub).

 

I want to verify the information Crutchfield has given me, which is that: I should use the crossover supplied with the new speakers; drive the crossover inputs from the wires going to the stock lower front-door speakers; leave the wires that were attached to the stock tweeters disconnected; and drive the new 6-1/2" and tweeter from the crossover.

 

Does this sound about right ? I'm wondering why not drive them from the stock crossover already in the car.

Edited August 29, 2020 by RustyShackleford

[Dre617]

There isn't a stock crossover in the car, one the members here had a YouTube video on his progress report his front and rear speakers. Curly on my phone but will follow back in a few with his video and info

[Dre617]

Almost forgot to update this but here is a YT video from Shogun506 that he posted on his build thread Ryan's Double Unicorn that he shows you step by step on replacing the speakers in his LGT:

, you will see in the video that there isnt a crossover pre-installed in the car. I think most car manufacturers actually dont install crossovers in the vehicle since most people are fine with the way cheaper sound system sound. Crutchfield is usually a very good source of information, the only 2 things of information I do not listen to them about is their in-house amps aren't that great from what users in the CarAV subreddit say and they told me I couldn't install a headunit in my LGT (technically it is true). I also have a set of components I plan to install soon, I bought from Crutchfield the Morel Maximo 6 and like that they included the speaker wires needed so I dont have to cut form the OEM harness to wire them in. Let me know if you have any questions, I think I am installing my set tomorrow depending on weather.

 

 

Lots of links and info..sorry

[RustyShackleford]

Well I'm glad I looked at that. I assumed the crossover was meant to be driven by the wire pair that goes to the main (lower 6-1/2") speaker. Crutchfield strongly implied that by giving me a harness that plugs into the connector for that lower speaker (with spade terminals at the other end); I guess it's for use if you're just replacing the main speaker and shouldn't been included with my order.

 

BTW, what is the point of the plastic sheeting on the inside of the door. I'd think to block air infiltration, but it's way too hole'y to do any good there. It's kinda in the way and I'm tempted to just rip it all out. I'm not planning to do anything fancy with sound deadening and the like.

[RustyShackleford]

Can some MODERATOR please change my thread title to something a bit more helpful for people looking for this information ?

[RustyShackleford]

Well I'm glad I looked at that. I assumed the crossover was meant to be driven by the wire pair that goes to the main (lower 6-1/2") speaker. Crutchfield strongly implied that by giving me a harness that plugs into the connector for that lower speaker (with spade terminals at the other end) ...

Actually, there's a pretty glaring error in the video. He says the audio signal (from the head unit) goes to the tweeter, which then "processes it" and sends it on to the lower speaker; so he cuts that signal where it goes into the tweeter and uses that as the input to the crossover. That will work. But there's no processing in the tweeter. The signal from the HU is simply connected to the wires that go down to the lower speaker (that's why there are 4 wires going into the tweeter connector). So you could just as easily drive the crossover from the wires that go to the lower speaker, and just leave the tweeter connector dangling. I think the way the video does it is cleaner, and that's what I did, but the way he describes it is misleading.

Edited August 30, 2020 by RustyShackleford

[Dre617]

Processing may not be the best description, but the tweeter does take the frequencies that it needs and sends along the rest of the signal to the main driver, so the signal in the main drivers wires may not reflect the same signal that comes from the HU. Which I mean the wires are right there so why not get source wires instead of wires that already went through another device. I am not a sound expert but if you a component set, it comes with a tweeter to install so there isnt a need to leave the stock tweeter.

[Dre617]

Also the plastic you see in the door isnt for air filtration, its a moisture barrier since the metal part of the door will experience condensation and stuff. The barrier is there so the leather, and other organic materials dont get soggy and moldy.

[RustyShackleford]

Processing may not be the best description, but the tweeter does take the frequencies that it needs and sends along the rest of the signal to the main driver, so the signal in the main drivers wires may not reflect the same signal that comes from the HU.

The twisted pair wires from the HU going into the tweeter, and the wires that lead from the tweeter to the big speaker, are crimped together in the connector that plugs into the tweeter - so they are exactly the same signal. I agree that grabbing the twisted pair that comes into the tweeter to drive the inputs to the new crossover is the cleanest way to do things.

 

I said all this in my comments on the video - the guy seemed annoyed that I was pointing this out.

 

Thanks for explaining the plastic to me. I won't feel bad about cutting a few extra holes in it. I did it so I could attach the crossover to something solid, which I did using that double-sided 3M automotive tape - mainly used for molding I think, looks like good stuff.

Edited August 31, 2020 by RustyShackleford