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Oil Presure test


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I finished assembling my new long block, and I am going to be starting on the swap in the near weeks. So my main concern with the engine is oil leaks and oil pressure. My question is, what is the minimum amount of stuff I need to connect in order to crank the motor and see if it makes good oil pressure and check for leaks. I don't want to assemble it completely just to find an issue and take it all apart again. I want to know at what point i can crank the engine to check for oil pressure and leaks. thank you.
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If you can get your hands on a pressure bleeder, like for bleeding brakes, you can connect that to the block where the oil pressure sensor threads in with a fitting from any local home improvement store. Pump it up to about 15 psi and slowly spin the block over by hand while putting a few quarts of oil through it. This should give you a good indication of if there are any leaks and it will pre-oil the system for a better first startup.

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When it comes time for the first start up, make sure you have left the key in "On" for at least 10 seconds. Just like you do after you reset the ECU.

 

If your like me, I did that a few times before just to check some other things out.

 

When I started mine for the first time, it cranked three times and was at idle. Just like it does every time I start it.

 

I gather you know the other steps, like first oil change after it runs for 15 minutes. DO you have all the oil and filters for the next few oil changes ?

 

Extra coolant ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If you can get your hands on a pressure bleeder, like for bleeding brakes, you can connect that to the block where the oil pressure sensor threads in with a fitting from any local home improvement store. Pump it up to about 15 psi and slowly spin the block over by hand while putting a few quarts of oil through it. This should give you a good indication of if there are any leaks and it will pre-oil the system for a better first startup.

 

I love that Idea!!

I'm definitely going to do that thank you

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I gather you know the other steps, like first oil change after it runs for 15 minutes. DO you have all the oil and filters for the next few oil changes?

 

Extra coolant ?

 

I've heard that the 15 min oil change is overkill but I will most likely do it anyway since I am also breaking in cams.

 

I'm using Motul 10w40 break-in oil (I was also thinking of putting a zinc additive in as well if that is a good idea).

 

When can I switch from break-in oil to synthetic? After the second oil change at 500 miles? and what oil should I switch too?

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Oh, breaking in cams, yes its a must to do the 15 minute oil change.

 

 

The zinc should be good for the bearings.

 

I used dino oil for the first 4 oil changes or so. I think I went to synthetic at 2500 miles.

 

I use Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic and their EA15K13 filter doing 7000 mile oil changes after getting a good report back from Blackstone Labs after sending in a sample that had 7000 miles on it.

 

I drive alot so it helps with doing fewer oil changes, Oh I also have Fumoto Oil drain valves. Makes things easier, just put a hose on the valve and drain into a gallon milk jug. Then take the used oil to my trusted mechanic and dump it in his heating oil tank for his garage.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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