soares Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 Can anyone confirm that the two idler pulleys on the 2010 - 2014 2.5i NA engine are identical? Tried searching but came up empty handed... thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 try searching on said part number 23770AA07A and you will find that the pully (according to Subaru does not work for 10-12) https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2014_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Sedan-Plus/PULLEY-IDLER/49233663/23770AA07A.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SophiesSubie Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 The idler pulley and the pulley on the tensioner are identical. I used a gates brand one as i was being lazy and just order from Amazon. Ib would get the oem one though for piece of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 Not that it’s totally relevant, but I had to put a new idler and tensioner pulley on my 3.6 this summer because they started to squeal. The new ones I bought only lasted a few months before starting to make noise. For some reason I kept the old pulleys, so I bought some really nice bearings, drove out the old ones and drove in the new ones. Of course, I used a socket that was too small and dented the shield so I have to do it again, but you know. TL;DR: if the 2.5i pulleys are like the 3.6 pulleys, you can just replace the bearings for less than $10, or about $20 if you buy top shelf double shielded NSK bearings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soares Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 (edited) thank you guys I appreciate it.. I was referring to the two idler pulleys on the 2014 2.5 liter engine Edited February 8, 2020 by soares adding pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 You should take one off and have a close look at the bearing. I’ll bet you’ll find a part number on it, can drive it out, and drive in a new one. Mine were 6203’s, so I bought some nice 6203ZZ’s (“ZZ is for double shielded) and drove them in with a small bearing race driver. Took all of about 10min and cost me all of $20. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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