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Have you checked your MAF sensor by chance? My car stalled out on me a couple times about a year ago. Changed the MAF sensor and hasnt had an issue since. Figured I'd throw it out there.

 

Yes. The first thing I did was clean it out. It was also replaced last year by a shop. I believe tho the throttle body was the issue from too much carbon/dirt build up, cleaned it up. Replaced the TCM and air filter. In reverse I no longer need to step on the gas to actually reverse. In manual shift mode, I do not need to step on the gas in 1st gear to move. Smoother shifts too. I believe the transmission mount is going back tho. Right now the car is getting the valve cover replaced since it decided to dump all literally all the oil that was in the engine in 1 week. But as soon as I figured that out I didn’t drive it I let it sit.

Edited by Carmania24
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There's a lot of ambiguous lawyer speak in that contract.

 

 

E. if any alterations or modifications have been made to Your Vehicle, or You are

using or have used Your Vehicle in a manner not recommended by the manufacturer

(Examples include, but are not limited to: any custom or add-on part; all frame

or suspension modifications; lift kits; oversized tires; Heavy Duty trailer hitches;

 

emissions and/or exhaust systems modifications; engine modifications; engine over-

revving; improper shifting). (limited vehicle modifications are allowed only if the

 

proper surcharge has been paid);

 

 

They will do their best to not pay claims and an investigator will be sent out prior to expensive repairs.

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There's a lot of ambiguous lawyer speak in that contract.

 

 

 

 

 

They will do their best to not pay claims and an investigator will be sent out prior to expensive repairs.

 

So I should not get the warranty?

 

Get a cheap Honda, recoup some savings, and get some of your money back discarding that thing, and not to some unsuspecting buyer.

 

You need to walk away from this from where I'm sitting.

 

If I could walk away I would, car is financed.

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I think you are wasting your money on the the warranty. The car doesn't have the OEM engine in it.

 

There are 100 reasons they could (and probably would) deny any claim you filed.

 

Warranties are really only good for stock vehicles and the manufacturers warranty is the only one worth a damn.

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No on the warranty, and you need to find a real subie performance shop to have it looked at.:)

 

Or there is a specB motor for sale in the sale section. :)

 

Alright I will walk away from the warranty. My friend recommended 2 shops that he has been to and both are not far away. If it happens again I will be going to one of them (I hope it does not).

 

I absolutely can not buy another car. Too many other expenses at the moment. It would have to be a Honda or something that is waaayyy cheaper to maintain. Though where I live, old honda's are stolen a lot...

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I think you are wasting your money on the the warranty. The car doesn't have the OEM engine in it.

 

There are 100 reasons they could (and probably would) deny any claim you filed.

 

Warranties are really only good for stock vehicles and the manufacturers warranty is the only one worth a damn.

 

I get what you're saying. I will not pursue it then. I will just deal with the places directly.

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Have you checked your MAF sensor by chance? My car stalled out on me a couple times about a year ago. Changed the MAF sensor and hasnt had an issue since. Figured I'd throw it out there.

 

Sorry for many posts

@sez752 I picked up the car from the shop after a new valve cover gasket job and got the P0171 code. Car feels rough so I will be purchasing a MAF. Odd that is was replaced last year but just to play it safe I will get one. Looks like the shop used a cheap brand and did not go with OEM Denso. I just purchased one.

Edited by Carmania24
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Have you seen this for P0171?

 

Yes, it's for the 2L turbo however many of the same checks and considerations still apply.

 

I have not seen that...thanks a bunch for this! So it could be any number of things listed. As for vacuum leaks I do not have any--mechanic checked and found nothing.

 

However is it running a little rough so I believe it is MAF, the brand is does not have a good name behind it. I hope this fixes it and nothing wrong with the fuel system.

 

I do have a CAI that I installed towards the beginning of this year, but still have yet to get a tune for it. I will go back to stock until I am ready to get a reflash.

Edited by Carmania24
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I definitely agree with this - back to stock on the air intake.

 

The aftermarket warranty on the other hand sounds like a terrible idea.

 

If you fill in your profile location someone could offer a good shop name, or sometimes members will offer to come help you if you're in a particular area. I've had members do some pretty incredible favors for me over the years and I've returned the favors to others.

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I definitely agree with this - back to stock on the air intake.

 

The aftermarket warranty on the other hand sounds like a terrible idea.

 

If you fill in your profile location someone could offer a good shop name, or sometimes members will offer to come help you if you're in a particular area. I've had members do some pretty incredible favors for me over the years and I've returned the favors to others.

 

Once the MAF comes in I will go ahead and put the stock intake back on. I also decided no go on the warranty. I attached pics of the MAF the shop used (rockauto pic) and the OEM MAF.

 

I thought I had added my location but I will add that now! Thanks :)

MA234_TOP_P04__ra_p.jpg.2e1ce62279a80d4cc03c9fb636338cb2.jpg

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.a970573d4537e2c1236b3ffb11a72370.jpg

Edited by Carmania24
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Okay so update--No more oil leak issue fixed. However, I got the MAF replaced it cleared the code and after doing the idle relearn process, I still get the code of P0171. I found out that there is vacuum going to the BOV (because my boost gauge is not working either). Taking it back to the shop that did my valve cover gasket. Though it only idles rough in park, and it seems to shift and drive fine. I am off work today so luckily I do not need the car (shop is very busy today too).
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My advice is do not drive it in boost if you have to drive it. Keep the revs below 4k and no boost at all while you're uncertain of motor and tuning issues. Until you see a tuner and have consistent data logs, I'd baby the shit out of it, not drive it when convenient.

 

You can download the BtSsm app and run it from your phone with a cheap cable. Good intro to data logging.

 

Nice looking LV from BtSsm the other day! My specB seems to be running great with my Cryotune:

BtSsm_LV_20191216_1340.png.a9cb9f15e04edff181c15d896906e846.png

Edited by BoozeRS05
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My advice is do not drive it in boost if you have to drive it. Keep the revs below 4k and no boost at all while you're uncertain of motor and tuning issues. Until you see a tuner and have consistent data logs, I'd baby the shit out of it, not drive it when convenient.

 

You can download the BtSsm app and run it from your phone with a cheap cable. Good intro to data logging.

 

Nice looking LV from BtSsm the other day! My specB seems to be running great with my Cryotune:

 

Thanks, I have bluedriver so I use data logging on that. I do not let my throttle go past 20% and I manually shift at 3200-3500RPM's. Car was tuned by EDO performance a while back maybe I will have to go to him and see what is going on. But I am going to take it to the shop again tomorrow and see why is there no vacuum going to the BOV...makes no sense to me. Luckily the shop is 1.5 miles away from me and the dealer is 3.5 miles.

 

Anybody have issues with low beam/parking lights not working

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I suggest you create a new thread on this that way others can provide feedback/advice!

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