Need advice on suspension setup for 2005 LGT wagon

[Pleides]

My 05 MT wagon has 208K miles on it and many parts are starting to seriously show their age on my car. Currently the only suspension mods I've done are rear sway bar endlinks from Kartboy and I LOVE them. I'm also running Michelin AS3+, so I'm not looking to track the car or make it super hardcore. Most of my driving will be done on relatively rough roads in Portland, OR.

 

I'm looking to make the car handle better while keeping the ride as cushy as possible. I'm OK with sacrificing some handling capability if it means less NVH. I'm also looking to lower the car about an inch to 1.5 inches all around. I just received Kartboy endlinks for the front in the mail and will be replacing the front sway bar bushings with poly Energy bushings.

 

My questions:

 

1. On the wagon, are spacers required for the front endlinks? I did my rears on a lift and had zero problems to speak of without spacers. Brain dead simple. Are the fronts as easy? I'm using all stock everything bar the Kartboy endlinks and Energy sway bushings.

 

2. Would I be better off with a well-paired strut and spring combo for my needs (thinking Konis with Swift Sport springs) or should I look into a coilover suspension? I don't really want to spend more than maybe a couple grand for the parts, including a professional installing them. Again, I'd like to lower the car 1-1.5 inches.

 

3. Do the Kartboy and Energy parts need greasing every couple years?

 

Thanks.

 

Edit: Oh, and before anyone asks: 208K on the original engine with perfect compression and leakdown

[ashwinearl]

Refer to this thread. There is some good discussion there.

 

You mention sway bar end links, but have you upgraded the actual sway bars to beefier ones?

 

You are looking for handling better while keeping the ride as cushy as possible. Those don't often go together. I'm am struggling with this right now and do not feel that Konis fit this description, either with stocks springs or after market springs. But I seem to be in a minority there, as many like them.

 

I am very close to switching from my Konis to KYB Excel-Gs but keep my current after market springs (King lowering on front, and Eibach on rear). I have some experience with HR springs and KYB with swaybars on a 1998 Legacy wagon and that was a good compromise of tighter handling with some comfort.

[Pleides]

Refer to this thread. There is some good discussion there.

 

You mention sway bar end links, but have you upgraded the actual sway bars to beefier ones?

 

You are looking for handling better while keeping the ride as cushy as possible. Those don't often go together. I'm am struggling with this right now and do not feel that Konis fit this description, either with stocks springs or after market springs. But I seem to be in a minority there, as many like them.

 

I am very close to switching from my Konis to KYB Excel-Gs but keep my current after market springs (King lowering on front, and Eibach on rear). I have some experience with HR springs and KYB with swaybars on a 1998 Legacy wagon and that was a good compromise of tighter handling with some comfort.

 

After reading that and seeing people suggest KYBs... are they special in any way? My struts were done by the previous owner at 145K and are in great shape still and they're those KYBs (they're actually the only suspension part on this car that I haven't replaced by now as far as I can tell). They ride very nice. Do they take well to an aftermarket spring? Sway bars are OEM and I'm fairly certain I'll be keeping it that way.

 

I realize that any affecting of the ride height will also worsen the ride almost certainly, but I'm trying to avoid extreme handling and throwing everything else out the window.

[boxkita]

Why do you want to lower the car if you are worried about rough roads?

 

You do know lowering has nothing to do with handling?

 

Why still on as3? Just get studless snow tires from les Schwab and drive year round. Actually be usable in winter. Plus the sidewall will soak up bumps better.

 

Depending on build date of your wagon, you may have 04 front suspension arms which will require spacers to make the end links fit. Mine needed almost an inch of washers.

 

60k miles is alot of miles on a suspension component as they don't last forever. The poor ride may be existing rubber bushings have all failed. If there are zerk fittings, you need to lube them at every other oil change. More or less depending on conditions.

 

At 15yo, every original bushing on your car is toast. Either from 200k miles or 15 years of existence. Replacing all of those should be a priority.

 

Do you want cushy ride? Or just not to feel the bumps? Low profile tires will make the ride harsher. If you want better handling replace the sway bars, and mounting hardware. Stiffer springs make for a stiffer ride.

 

Coil overs get a bad rap because no one pays for the tuning that makes them work correctly. Correctly tuned for purpose, they are an excellent solution. Bolting up randomly selected choices ensures an exceptionally sucky ride.

 

I'm a minority for saying this: but how you drive has a large effect on how your car handles. If you try to make the car into something else, the ride will be compromised.

 

Have you ridden in anyone else's wagon? Get a sense of ride height/quality? Before randomly changing components? You're getting advice from east coast drivers who view rough roads as "I broke the rim driving to work" where you just don't like the expansion joints on the freeway bridges.

[ashwinearl]

Why do you want to lower the car if you are worried about rough roads?

 

You do know lowering has nothing to do with handling?

...

 

At 15yo, every original bushing on your car is toast. Either from 200k miles or 15 years of existence. Replacing all of those should be a priority.

 

Do you want cushy ride? Or just not to feel the bumps? ... Stiffer springs make for a stiffer ride.

 

boxkita, I am glad that even though you are selling your stuff, you are willing to keep schooling. I'm one of those people who equate stiffer/lower springs with better handling.

 

I'm making a change in struts soon, most likely back to KYB Excel-Gs and after reading this now considering putting back the stock springs too. Currently, I have King Lowering in front and Eibach rear.

 

With existing 22mm front and 20mm rear Whiteline swaybars, and Kartboy front and whiteline rear endlinks, it sounds like going back to stock springs matches my goal of more comfortable but not cushy?

[Pleides]

Why do you want to lower the car if you are worried about rough roads?

 

You do know lowering has nothing to do with handling?

 

Why still on as3? Just get studless snow tires from les Schwab and drive year round. Actually be usable in winter. Plus the sidewall will soak up bumps better.

 

Depending on build date of your wagon, you may have 04 front suspension arms which will require spacers to make the end links fit. Mine needed almost an inch of washers.

 

60k miles is alot of miles on a suspension component as they don't last forever. The poor ride may be existing rubber bushings have all failed. If there are zerk fittings, you need to lube them at every other oil change. More or less depending on conditions.

 

At 15yo, every original bushing on your car is toast. Either from 200k miles or 15 years of existence. Replacing all of those should be a priority.

 

Do you want cushy ride? Or just not to feel the bumps? Low profile tires will make the ride harsher. If you want better handling replace the sway bars, and mounting hardware. Stiffer springs make for a stiffer ride.

 

Coil overs get a bad rap because no one pays for the tuning that makes them work correctly. Correctly tuned for purpose, they are an excellent solution. Bolting up randomly selected choices ensures an exceptionally sucky ride.

 

I'm a minority for saying this: but how you drive has a large effect on how your car handles. If you try to make the car into something else, the ride will be compromised.

 

Have you ridden in anyone else's wagon? Get a sense of ride height/quality? Before randomly changing components? You're getting advice from east coast drivers who view rough roads as "I broke the rim driving to work" where you just don't like the expansion joints on the freeway bridges.

 

Lowering the car is strictly for aesthetics. Also the AS3+ for me make more sense than two sets of tires. I don’t have a place to store a second set of tires and Portland hardly ever gets any weather worth using snow tires for. If we do, the whole city shuts down.

 

Thanks for letting me know about the sway bar. I bought spacers just in case. I’m unsure of the build date of my car. I’m assuming I could find that with the VIN somewhere?

 

I’ve replaced damn near every piece of rubber in this car. I think the only thing left would be the steering rack bushings after my sway bushings have gone in with my new endlinks. I’ve replaced everything else with OEM rubber for comfort.

 

I’m still running the OEM tire size of 215/45/17 and it’s very comfy. Do wider tires affect ride quality at all? I’m assuming less sidewall is the more obvious thing to worsen ride comfort. I guess I want to not feel like taking a trip to the chiropractor after hitting bumps. If that can be done with a good set of coil overs then I’d be ok with that. I’m not technically-inclined on how to set them up though.

 

I’ve been in a well-maintained NA Legacy wagon and a few LGTs. Most were beat to hell, though the other wagon felt about the same as mine, maybe even more feel in the steering (I’m assuming that’s because the rack bushings were in better shape?). I’m normally a fairly relaxed driver, but the way the car handles from the factory is too sloppy for my liking. Just with the rear endlinks I’m already infinitely happier, and my fronts are still shot, waiting for me to install my new ones. I am not a professional driver, however, thus the whole ordeal where I don’t want to overspend on a suspension setup that I won’t utilize at all.

[pdXammo]

May I interject into this conversation as I am looking at similar things from a similar standpoint?

I am wondering about just getting a bunch of those aluminum JDM suspension components and having all the bushings replaced and poping those on rather than pulling everything off and re-installing. It seems a good opportunity to inspect everything, all the hubs sensors, all of it. Ebay is filled with those spec b parts and I'm a little concerned some might be China knock-offs it aught to be possible to get good stuff. Thoughts?

[boxkita]

I have a set of as3 tires. They pretty much suck all the time. A good performance tire will outperform an all season tire in nearly every condition. When the conditions are really bad, the all-season owner is staying home anyway. So why not buy a tire that's performance oriented and enjoy the ride?

 

Wider tires make for a larger contact patch which makes for better grip. With more grip comes more tire noise. On the badly rutted i5 in Portland, you can expect more issues with tram lining in the rain , especially with tires that don't shed water well. Hydroplaning is a real thing.

 

Lowering the car more than stock changes the geometry which affects ride. Around 2 inches (when new), the steering system is affected requiring upgrades which affect nvh (noise vibration harshness). Lowering for aesthetics is counterintuitive to having a nice ride especially with your non-technical ability. There are several shops in the Portland area that specialize in Subaru suspension that can put together ideal solutions to meet your needs. It'll cost money but you'll get a nice ride.

 

Wider tires will require shorter sidewalls to maintain the required tire diameter and circumference. Xenonk thread first page has the details. Shorter sidewalls generally translates to stiffer ride, however, some stiffness is dependent on the tires you buy. Any high performance tire will be stiff. A luxury tire will be more comfortable.

 

The lgt as delivered were a sporty ride being stiffer than other cars of the time. The race wagon had mostly stock bushings for its entire life. However it's still a wagon with 4000lb towing capacity so you're trying to make an suv handle like a sports car. There's going to be compromise.

 

Lowering the car will cause more things to be obstacles: pot holes, curbs, concrete slabs out of alignment (i5). Add in wider tires with smaller sidewalls. You're pretty much asking for a worse ride.

 

Visit a used tire shop. "Rent" a set of low profile 225/?/17 tires. Drive around for a week. If you don't hate, maybe it's ok. When I drove the wagon through Portland, I always moved over 3 feet to get out of the ruts. The misaligned panels just sucked tho

[boxkita]

May I interject into this conversation as I am looking at similar things from a similar standpoint?

I am wondering about just getting a bunch of those aluminum JDM suspension components and having all the bushings replaced and poping those on rather than pulling everything off and re-installing. It seems a good opportunity to inspect everything, all the hubs sensors, all of it. Ebay is filled with those spec b parts and I'm a little concerned some might be China knock-offs it aught to be possible to get good stuff. Thoughts?

 

The mevotec front arms look like the SpecB but aren't. the bushes are oem or less quality. Ymmv.

 

Starting with new to you parts and installing new bushes is a good idea. I did that on the race wagon. It doesn't save anything as you'd have to take the originals off no matter what. The arms don't wear out unless damaged.

 

Bushes wear out over time. If the po didn't replace them, you'll get a much better ride by doing it now.

 

The SpecB aluminum parts do lighten unsprung weight which is usually negated by buying heavy wheels & tires and big brake kits

[Pleides]

I have a set of as3 tires. They pretty much suck all the time. A good performance tire will outperform an all season tire in nearly every condition. When the conditions are really bad, the all-season owner is staying home anyway. So why not buy a tire that's performance oriented and enjoy the ride?

 

Wider tires make for a larger contact patch which makes for better grip. With more grip comes more tire noise. On the badly rutted i5 in Portland, you can expect more issues with tram lining in the rain , especially with tires that don't shed water well. Hydroplaning is a real thing.

 

Lowering the car more than stock changes the geometry which affects ride. Around 2 inches (when new), the steering system is affected requiring upgrades which affect nvh (noise vibration harshness). Lowering for aesthetics is counterintuitive to having a nice ride especially with your non-technical ability. There are several shops in the Portland area that specialize in Subaru suspension that can put together ideal solutions to meet your needs. It'll cost money but you'll get a nice ride.

 

Wider tires will require shorter sidewalls to maintain the required tire diameter and circumference. Xenonk thread first page has the details. Shorter sidewalls generally translates to stiffer ride, however, some stiffness is dependent on the tires you buy. Any high performance tire will be stiff. A luxury tire will be more comfortable.

 

The lgt as delivered were a sporty ride being stiffer than other cars of the time. The race wagon had mostly stock bushings for its entire life. However it's still a wagon with 4000lb towing capacity so you're trying to make an suv handle like a sports car. There's going to be compromise.

 

Lowering the car will cause more things to be obstacles: pot holes, curbs, concrete slabs out of alignment (i5). Add in wider tires with smaller sidewalls. You're pretty much asking for a worse ride.

 

Visit a used tire shop. "Rent" a set of low profile 225/?/17 tires. Drive around for a week. If you don't hate, maybe it's ok. When I drove the wagon through Portland, I always moved over 3 feet to get out of the ruts. The misaligned panels just sucked tho

 

I've driven a 2018 Golf GTI with the AS3+ and 225/40/18 and didn't have any complaints about the ride. Apples to oranges, maybe? But the experience was fine with them. I haven't had a good set of summer tires on the car to compare levels of grip (had a worn set of Toyo summer tires on it when I bought the car but the tread was at 3/32) but I really don't have any issues with the tire and, for those days when it's below 45 where it's not causing any wintery weather and closures of the whole city, I don't think a summer tire would make sense. I mean, we're at the end of October, probably won't get snow for another two months or so, and it's gonna be 45 or less when I drive to work before 8 AM, right? And on cold spring days, it'll be under 45 and not snowing. I just don't get why an A/S tire that has alright performance everywhere is a bad thing for the typical Portland use-case. I don't have a place to store tires that would be suitable for the colder temperatures; this is just the sacrifice I have to make. Honestly, these tires grip fine for the occasional onramp fun or twisty back road. They also have less tread noise than a summer tire, or at least the ones I've experienced.

 

The plan is for 225 width tires so I have no clearance issues, especially when lowering the car. Would you recommend wider + fender rolling? This just seems like the typical 18" tire size for these cars.

 

I'm planning on a 1-1.25" lowering of the car, I think. What steering upgrades would you recommend, if any, and what are actually required at the 2" lower mark? I don't plan to go that low - just curious.

 

If I go the route of a coilover-type suspension, are there any kits you'd recommend and also avoid entirely?

 

I'll see if I can find a tire shop to borrow tires from. Les Schwab and Discount Tire are near me and I assume they'd be the ones to call for something like that.

[Pleides]

Alrighty, so I know this is a bump from the nether, but I went for the Koni plus H&R route. Surgeline seemed bent on me going for the coilover route, but I just couldn't see a good reason to go that route. I'm still running AS3+, gonna hold off on new stickier tires until I can afford different wheels because the wheels I've got now I'm not exactly in love with. Probably going for the Falken Azenis FK510. Somebody can chime in if they have any experience with those.

 

The Koni+H&R setup handles better than I can even seek the limits of with my ability as a driver. They're an incredible pairing. Very, very comfortable too. My old KYBs and stock springs were pretty well-worn before I swapped these two in and I notice no ride comfort difference at all. I also replaced the top hats with new OEM ones to keep things more comfy (I don't know if they're different than the KYB ones). The drop isn't tremendous, but after coming to realize that I encounter too many hills in the SW Portland area that can't be breached by a car that's any lower than mine, I'll be content with the modest drop of the H&R.

 

The tech noted I had some worn rear toe link bushings when doing an alignment on my wagon. More money to spend one day, I suppose.

 

Here's a picture. Really, really happy with the setup.

Edited January 24, 2020 by Pleides

[Nonamedude]

Just was reading through the thread. Glad you're liking the new suspension. Something that hasn't been mentioned is an alignment, or more so what are your alignment settings. I'm sure others can be more accurate, but running more negative camber and making sure your alignment is same left to right (not just within green specs) would likely be helpful and I don't think should impact nvh or tire wear too much.

 

About all season tires in the cold. I can't even find if the as3 is m+s or snowflake rated. Which would mean utah wouldn't even let you take them up the canyons in the winter. Not that it stopped me in my civic with $30 tires. No joke. I spent $220 on all 4 tires installed taxes fees you name it.

 

If boxkita, who lives in Seattle area, is saying you'd be fine on summer tires, he's likely right. The civic has the same tires on 3 years later, fronts are at the wear bars and I still drive it in 3" snow storms. I've never lost control you just gotta know the limits and think about how infrequently you're doing that anyway. I'd vote different tires when you wear these out or new rims.

 

 

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[Pleides]

Just was reading through the thread. Glad you're liking the new suspension. Something that hasn't been mentioned is an alignment, or more so what are your alignment settings. I'm sure others can be more accurate, but running more negative camber and making sure your alignment is same left to right (not just within green specs) would likely be helpful and I don't think should impact nvh or tire wear too much.

 

About all season tires in the cold. I can't even find if the as3 is m+s or snowflake rated. Which would mean utah wouldn't even let you take them up the canyons in the winter. Not that it stopped me in my civic with $30 tires. No joke. I spent $220 on all 4 tires installed taxes fees you name it.

 

If boxkita, who lives in Seattle area, is saying you'd be fine on summer tires, he's likely right. The civic has the same tires on 3 years later, fronts are at the wear bars and I still drive it in 3" snow storms. I've never lost control you just gotta know the limits and think about how infrequently you're doing that anyway. I'd vote different tires when you wear these out or new rims.

 

 

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For the alignment I’m running -1.1 degrees front negative camber and neutral in the rear, I believe. There’s no rear alignment adjustment on these cars from what I was told. He also noted I had a couple worn bushings in the rear.

 

As for tires, I will probably go the route of two separate wheels and tires when my dad sells his bike he hasn’t ridden in 6 years and store those in his garage. Side note: anybody want a 2012 BMW R1200RT with 6-year expired tags?

 

I’m not 100% certain on wheel choice yet for the summers, but I’ll probably be going the route of a 225/40/18 Falken FK510 and then putting 225/45/17s studies winters on my old Enkeis I have now.I’ve driven a few RWD 400+ horsepower cars at work running Michelin PSSs (Chevy dealer, so think Vettes and SS) in our winter rush a couple weeks ago and did fine, although losing a bit of traction between up shifts when merging on the freeway was a little dicey. I’d imagine that would be less of a problem with AWD.

[pdXammo]

I'm so overwhelmed by all of this suspension stuff I think I just might easy button this part of my project and take it to a local specialist and just say "make it so" ... Am I making too much of this?

I've got my clips out of the car right now so it seems a good time to do it all.

[Nonamedude]

For the alignment I’m running -1.1 degrees front negative camber and neutral in the rear, I believe. There’s no rear alignment adjustment on these cars from what I was told. He also noted I had a couple worn bushings in the rear.

 

 

 

As for tires, I will probably go the route of two separate wheels and tires when my dad sells his bike he hasn’t ridden in 6 years and store those in his garage. Side note: anybody want a 2012 BMW R1200RT with 6-year expired tags?

 

 

 

I’m not 100% certain on wheel choice yet for the summers, but I’ll probably be going the route of a 225/40/18 Falken FK510 and then putting 225/45/17s studies winters on my old Enkeis I have now.I’ve driven a few RWD 400+ horsepower cars at work running Michelin PSSs (Chevy dealer, so think Vettes and SS) in our winter rush a couple weeks ago and did fine, although losing a bit of traction between up shifts when merging on the freeway was a little dicey. I’d imagine that would be less of a problem with AWD.

 

 

 

There is not a stock negative camber alignment that is correct. But whiteline makes a bushing for the rear that'll get you to -1* and they also make (very expensive but worth while) control arms that will independently adjust both camber and toe in the rear.

 

I find in my stock obxt I basically have to try to lose grip doing something stupid on michelin defenders. I can't imagine you'll have any issues you'd have in yours like you have in a vette.

 

 

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[Nonamedude]

I'm so overwhelmed by all of this suspension stuff I think I just might easy button this part of my project and take it to a local specialist and just say "make it so" ... Am I making too much of this?

I've got my clips out of the car right now so it seems a good time to do it all.

 

 

 

Haha yes I think you are. But it seems like there are two ways to do it. Make a single choice and live with it. Or change it every 3 months. I'll be in the first group.

 

 

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[ttnio]

i would keep it oem as much as possible. it had 208K miles without any problem.

 

of course you can alter, will it last just as long?

[Pleides]

I'm so overwhelmed by all of this suspension stuff I think I just might easy button this part of my project and take it to a local specialist and just say "make it so" ... Am I making too much of this?

I've got my clips out of the car right now so it seems a good time to do it all.

 

Are you planning on tracking the car? Lowering it? How much money are you willing to spend? All in I spent about $1100 on the hardware for my suspension (, struts, springs, top hats) and it was worth every penny, even after Surgeline installed it for me.

[Pleides]

i would keep it oem as much as possible. it had 208K miles without any problem.

 

of course you can alter, will it last just as long?

 

Already did the deed. Konis and H&R springs. Happy as a clam!

[ttnio]

great, good luck

[Pleides]

great, good luck

 

I should mention that, within a couple weeks of making this post, my struts had undergone some... trauma with 5 of my friends and I taking a ride in it and going over some of Portland's worst roads during a trip, and resulted in the leaking of all four sides. Front left was bouncy as all heck by the time I had the job done by Cobb Surgeline.

 

I will say, my only woe with the suspension is that it isn't as low as I would like. That's really it. I don't think any coilover would be this comfortable anywhere near the price of the hardware here.

[Enlight]

Coil overs get a bad rap because no one pays for the tuning that makes them work correctly. Correctly tuned for purpose, they are an excellent solution. Bolting up randomly selected choices ensures an exceptionally sucky ride.

 

 

At the risk of de-railing this thread (OP, please let me know if you'd like this taken elsewhere), but would you mind expanding on what you mean by tuning coilovers for good ride quality here? I just picked up a set of Ohlins and had them serviced by ANZE, but I didn't give them any direction as far as having them tuned for one purpose or the other. I pretty much did what you just described.

[Nonamedude]

So at risk of some assumptions, in looking up various suspension set ups, I managed to find the build thread for boxkita's normal wagon, I couldn't find the race wagon one. On the normal wagon he has bc racing br coil overs that I believe have been corner balanced as well (not exactly a do at home thing).

 

My guess (from what I know of bicycle suspension) is that the damping has been set up to have a softer compression and slower rebound compared to the race wagon. This would, given the same spring rates, allow for the suspension to move sooner on smaller bumps and would slow the jarring you can get from a wheel trying to slam back down to grab the road. It also means in a series of tight corners especially on uneven pavement, you run the risk of "stacking up" the dampers as they are compressing sooner and not rebounding quick enough to zero before the next compression.

 

The other option is he could ALSO have softer springs on the bc racing coilovers as that is an option, which would also in theory make the compression of a damper happen sooner on smaller bumps. All of this means small holes, bumps, rough road get "soaked up" easier, but it also means you'd be more susceptible to body roll and loss of grip.

 

I'll also say that in another thread, boxkita has stated that his daily wagon is set up for 5% of driving not 95% of driving and many people might find it too racy for their tastes, which is a subjective thing. That said, I read of many people who are running bc racing br with softer swift springs that seem to be happy with the comfort vs improvements.

 

Would love for someone to come pick that apart, still learning suspension

[pdXammo]

So at risk of some assumptions, in looking up various suspension set ups, I managed to find the build thread for boxkita's normal wagon, I couldn't find the race wagon one. On the normal wagon he has bc racing br coil overs that I believe have been corner balanced as well (not exactly a do at home thing).

 

My guess (from what I know of bicycle suspension) is that the damping has been set up to have a softer compression and slower rebound compared to the race wagon. This would, given the same spring rates, allow for the suspension to move sooner on smaller bumps and would slow the jarring you can get from a wheel trying to slam back down to grab the road. It also means in a series of tight corners especially on uneven pavement, you run the risk of "stacking up" the dampers as they are compressing sooner and not rebounding quick enough to zero before the next compression.

 

The other option is he could ALSO have softer springs on the bc racing coilovers as that is an option, which would also in theory make the compression of a damper happen sooner on smaller bumps. All of this means small holes, bumps, rough road get "soaked up" easier, but it also means you'd be more susceptible to body roll and loss of grip.

 

I'll also say that in another thread, boxkita has stated that his daily wagon is set up for 5% of driving not 95% of driving and many people might find it too racy for their tastes, which is a subjective thing. That said, I read of many people who are running bc racing br with softer swift springs that seem to be happy with the comfort vs improvements.

 

Would love for someone to come pick that apart, still learning suspension

I have set of bc inbound with6k/8k. Probably will get swifts for them so we'll see.

[Febreze Mee]

Forgive me for inputting with just a little ole 2.5i, but perhaps someone can take something away from this. I am no suspension expert. I checked, and re-rechecked my research, spending hours trying to figure out the suspension set up I wanted for what is my daily driver. I like comfort too and while, my suspension set-up isn't uncomfortable (not* abruptly harsh, still subjective), it is no lush Lexus LS430 suspension. I am building my daily to enjoy the twisties when I can with it, and I'm willing to sacrifice a little more comfort for said twisties.

 

I am running BC BR Coilovers w/ Swift springs 7K/8K (front/rear) set to 7-clicks from hard, and a Whiteline RSB set to soft. I have driven like this on mediocre roads for a couple thousand miles now.

 

My car is streetable, functional, and comfortable enough. I will be playing around with the damping on softer settings over the next couple weeks to learn more about my setup. But I am extremely happy with it thus far.

 

EDIT: not*