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The tale of two OBP OBXTs | low vs lifted


KevinEdgar

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I tried installing the timing belt kit, then when it came time to putting the belt on I realized I do NEED the company 23 cam lock tool. I ordered it but it doesn't come until monday, maybe I'll disassemble my brembos this weekend since I can't really work on the engine. I also ordered a new gasket for the center timing cover but didn't realize I needed gaskets for the bottom too. I'm scared to total up this engine build but I think I'm at 7k at this point and it's not even done.

 

 

If it makes you feel any better I am near 10k at this point on a budget of 5k...oops.

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If it makes you feel any better I am near 10k at this point on a budget of 5k...oops.

 

It's crazy how fast things add up. This is 25% because of a cracked exhaust valve and 75% because I want my wagon to be a lil quicker. My estimated engine build total is at $12k, but I gotta get it running mostly stock first so I can get it emissions tested.

 

Do you have a build thread?

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It's crazy how fast things add up. This is 25% because of a cracked exhaust valve and 75% because I want my wagon to be a lil quicker. My estimated engine build total is at $12k, but I gotta get it running mostly stock first so I can get it emissions tested.

 

Do you have a build thread?

 

 

I'll go put one together but I don't want to hijack this fine thread.

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/awd-squirrels-return-story-murder-and-ressurection-283847.html?p=5987475#post5987475

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I ordered a new gasket for the pulley mount bracket and resprayed it while it was off so it matches with the rest of the engine.

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Here's the company 23 cam lock tool, worked great I couldn't have done the install without it.

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Does anybody bleed the tensioner? I don't see anybody do it on youtube but it says to on the instructions.

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Here's the timing belt and new pulley's and etc. Now I gotta wait for the bottom center timing cover gaskets to come in so I can close everything up.

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Edited by KevinEdgar
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've put myself on slight timeout because I just build a new PC setup but I'm still working on little aspects of the engine build. I cleaned up and painted to power steering pump and bracket then while test fitting the intake manifold and tgvs I felt like I couldn't let the ugly tgvs slide without being painted.

 

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Damn, now I wish I had painted mine while they were off.

 

 

Those look much better. Any reason you're not going to gut those while you have them off. NVM I see you live in California. Although I bet you could gut them and leave just the rod and no one would ever know... I mean I would never condone such thing how dare I!

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Damn, now I wish I had painted mine while they were off.

 

 

Those look much better. Any reason you're not going to gut those while you have them off. NVM I see you live in California. Although I bet you could gut them and leave just the rod and no one would ever know... I mean I would never condone such thing how dare I!

 

I didn't gut them because I'll be getting TGV deletes when this thing passes smog:hide:

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Small batch of parts for the lifted outback. Brake pads and rotors, front hubs, rear parking brake hardware and an a/c condenser.

 

I changed the A/C condenser thinking it might have mud caked in it, turns out it didn't. I'm sure the car will still run hotter than it should when climbing hills. Already has new rad and thermostat with proper fluids and coolant conditioner. Maybe the timing belt/water pump service was skipped. At least now I know how to do it and have the right tools lol.

 

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Red skies in California :(

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Old vs new, install was super easy. Went to shop to have r134 evacuated then went back to have system charged.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

New brake rotors, rear shoes, pads all around and front hubs for the lifted outback. I thought my front right was wobbly from bad hubs but when I got under there I saw the wheel weights fell off, AGAIN! The shop that mounted and balanced my wheels didn't clean the surface prior to sticking the weights so they fell off, they also put the weights on a recessed area so the weight is not sticking flat... Going to get all 4 rebalanced tomorrow.

 

My car's favorite position

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The car is too tall in the rear to take the wheels off with jackstands at full height, I have to jack it up, remove wheels, then lower onto jackstands.

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Rear: before

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Look at all this rust, I will never buy another east coast car.

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New shoes and hardware installed, much easier than other drum brakes I have dealt with.

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All done

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Time for new hubs, PB blaster really saved me on this one. Let everything soak and the side that soaked longer was much easier.

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Front: before

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Side by side shot of the new and old hubs

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Hub installed, had to BEATTT the old ones out

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Rotors and pads on

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Every time I touch this car, piles of rust accumulate, the car sheds weight it's awesome!!

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Also, front axles are DONE, I think I'm gonna try out the rockauto ones. Almost everything this car gets is from rockauto, the other car gets OEM things.

Edited by KevinEdgar
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Ended up getting some axles from Napa and so far I can notice the vibration at idle but it feels muuuuch better than the clunky old axles. I am quick at doing axles, everything done in under a hour.

 

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Maybe next I'll change the LCAs since the bushing are shot and the LCAs are pretty rusty.

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Agreed, especially the way everyone says use OE or your car will blow up.....

 

they have already exceeded my expectations based on reviews and I will be putting another trackmotive in to replace the one with the clunk.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Ordered a bunch of new vacuum hoses for the engine build, it is dangerously close to finding it's way back into the engine bay and I'm getting slightly anxious... It appears I'm on time with my deadline of getting the car running by the end of the year. We'll see.
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  • 2 weeks later...
When I initially took everything apart I let some parts sit outside under cover but not protected from moisture. My flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate were covered in surface rust and after some brillo pad/wire wheel treatment I saw the rust had eaten deeper than it appeared. Made the decision to buy a new ACT LWFW/clutch setup and also got a mishimoto x line radiator with mishimoto black hoses. I am determined to get this thing running by new years.
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When I initially took everything apart I let some parts sit outside under cover but not protected from moisture. My flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate were covered in surface rust and after some brillo pad/wire wheel treatment I saw the rust had eaten deeper than it appeared. Made the decision to buy a new ACT LWFW/clutch setup and also got a mishimoto x line radiator with mishimoto black hoses. I am determined to get this thing running by new years.

 

That is a huge bummer. I’m sorry to hear that.

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That is a huge bummer. I’m sorry to hear that.

 

It's disappointing but I would rather replace it now while it's easy, then I won't have to worry for a little while. I also figured why not put a brand new setup since I have already been pretty anal about everything else.

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I wish I had followed your logic. I had to pull the engine on mine the day after I got it installed, post rebuild, because the head gaskets didn’t seal on what seemed to be a great Mating surface. That was an unpleasant Scenario and I wish I had machined them before having them shipped.
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I wish I had followed your logic. I had to pull the engine on mine the day after I got it installed, post rebuild, because the head gaskets didn’t seal on what seemed to be a great Mating surface. That was an unpleasant Scenario and I wish I had machined them before having them shipped.

 

Damn that sucks, how early did you catch it?

 

I have my logic because I'm an aircraft maintainer where I'm forced to do things 100% correct even when it comes to replacing parts that don't necessarily need it. Those ways trickle into my hobby life.

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I ordered 4 new coilpack connectors from iwire since 2 of them were cracked. I think they were about $50 shipped. Super easy to replace and very satisfying.

 

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The old cracked, rtv'd connectors

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New ones installed

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The plastic quality does not seem the best but it is better than brittle cracked connectors, I'm curious to see how long these last.

 

Old connectors

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