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Use high beam for DRLs??


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If you look at the pictures or up under your dash, the black and the white plugs everyone is modifying plug into a DRL module that is bolted up under the dash.


I was just wondering if you could swap the 2008 module into a 2005,6,7 and have high beam DRL's

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I replaced my lowbeam HIDs today and made a bad connection with the signal wire to my battery harness


When I tried turning my lowbeams on, instead it turned on my highbeams, but at a low voltage or something because they were pretty dim, which is what everyone was looking for, a DRL sort of look


Have I stumbled on something?

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  • 6 years later...
  • 6 months later...

Bumping an old thread. Anyone know if i can swap an 08 drl module into an 06? I just did an 08 front end conversion onto an 06.


the 08 headlights were going crazy and then it wouldnt even turn on at all with low beams on. I will look at both modules tomorrow side by side but just wondering if the wiring/plugs are the same to connect into the different modules

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Exactly what I want to know, are they able to be changed so that the DRL's default to the high beams. Would like this since I have the JDM headlights.


I was not able to dig into this, this weekend but I will look into it more sometime this week.


Apparently some 2 or 3 wires are different according to another thread I found. So it might involve swapping the DRL modules and then swapping the pins

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  • 5 months later...

why couldn't I find this option before? but now I've decided on going LED high beams, so DRL high beams has gone to the wayside in exchange for adding an LED DRL strip.. but I want to reuse the OE DRL module....


So adding a switch inline on the brown wire (black connector) or the grey wire on the white connector gives you option to turn DRLs on/off w/o unplugging anything right??

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looking again at my Haynes wiring diagrams....appears to (dis)able the DRLs at will, you put a switch inline the grey wire in the black connector....then the feed wire is the brown wire....and you can hook that to the high beam, fog light or external auxiliary light system you want to use as DRL........ is this correct?
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Laz -


Your work is very appreciated and I have learned a lot from reading your posts.. thank you!


Food for thought.. here is what I'm trying to achieve;


a) HID low beam

b) DRL is the full power low beam HID (just like Volkswagon Toregs)

(but here is the twist)

c) Put an inline switch that will disengage the DRL (for when I desire no

DRL), but not impact use of low beam HID when I turn headlights on.

Basically just kill DRL function.


Here is why:

1. I want to put HIDS in car

2. I want to use full power HID as DRL (especially with bulb warrienties

these days)

3. Wife says DRLs must stay - so must keep her happy

4. On extreem foggy nights, I want to turn off HID DRL and be able to choose driving with just amber Fogs (I've done that mod thanks to posts here) -


My goal is to use a blank switch to the left of the stearing wheel - but haven't figured that out yet either.


Laz - any thoughs and inspirational ideas are welcome :)



Install one of those relay harnesses along w/ the HID kit...battery voltage gets supplied to the ballasts at all times, and uses the DRL feed of 12.5V to trigger the relays. And then put a switch on the GRAY wire (black connector) it's the wire connected to the ebrake lever

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  • 2 years later...

Lazarus bump.


Long story short, is it easy to move the DRL from low beam to high beam on an 07 OBXT?


Long version: i used to have a 2009 Outback basic. I traded it in for current 2007 OBXT. One thing I lost was what I perceived to be better headlights (I never test-drove it at night before the trade-in). I wish I could confirm this, but I swear the 09 used the high beams (at reduced wattage) for its DRL’s. My 07 uses the low beams for DRL. Hence, my interest in this thread. FWIW, I have gotten great bulb life on the 07, despite the DRL. I’m probably jinxing myself, but I bet I have 3 yrs + on Sylvania basic H7’s. And yes, they suck, but it’s a combo of lens’s beginning to cloud, the bulbs not being that bright to begin with, and the fact I lowered the car slightly. I spend way too much time bi*ching about everyone else’s headlights, many DIY conversions or stock lights on lifted trucks (and not re-aimed downward). So I will not try a HID or LED conversion. But will consider brighter bulbs. Brighter bulbs = shorter life, I presume, so would like to offset that with moving the DRL to the high beams....if easy. I also really like the DRLs, at the middle light position. This ensures the taillights are on, and some headlight is on. I’ve trained myself to never turn headlight switch completely off (which would leave the DRL’s on anyway, but without the taillights. Of course, I turn on the real headlights when needed, but often enough, I forget, so this “DRL” middle setting is at least better than no lights (or no taillights).

Edited by Impatient
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The 08/09 do indeed use the high beam for drl. I have no idea about making that happen on a 07. It should likely be possible with oem module/wiring. If not there are aftermarket options.


HID retrofits done properly are just as good and in some cases better then OEM HID projectors. It's cars/owners with the plug and play kits, poorly executed retrofits and improperly aimed headlights that are blinding people on the roads. Additionally cars headlights that are all cloudy/pitted etc, scatter the light a lot more then they did when new. And often trucks in almost any form blind everyone.


As far as leaving the headlight switch in the "middle position" which is the parking lights, while I understand the interest in increasing your visibility by always having you marker/tail lights on. This raises 2 issues. 1) your dash lights/interior illumination are always on, which when it gets dark gives you the false sense that your headlights are on. If the interior of your car is dark and its night that's a big hint your headlights are off. Without that hint, there is a lot higher chance of forgeting that your lights are off. Though I will agree at least this ensures your tail lights are on so others should see you fine you just won't be able to see well yourself. 2) your dash lights/gauges are going to be a lot dimmer during the day due to the fact that when you turn the parking lights on the dash lights dim.


Side note/rant. More and more I see cars without thier lights on at night. Not just one a day, many, every day with no lights. Often on dark roads/highways. Not only are they almost invisible they obviously can't see a damn thing in front of them. My only guess how this possibly has become such a wide spread issue is that cars used to have no dash lights until the headlights where turned on. Therefore at night the interior of your car would be pitch back and you wouldn't be able to read your gauges, giving you a big hint somethings is wrong and if you want to read your gauges you would need to turn on your lights. The issue seems to be that all modern cars have glowing gauges, day or night so when it gets dark you can see the gauges fine and see no need to turn on your headlights. At least that's the only explanation I can come up with for people being this clueless. /rant



Third point would be if you are concerned about bulb life, you are now running all the interior illumination day and night. Seeing that they are LEDs (I think) I doubt it will really effect thier life but if that was a concern....


Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

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Thanks Nevets


If I knew where/how to do a proper HID, I would consider it, but starting from zero, I didn’t know there was a USDM appropriate option, that has proper projector beam pattern.


You are sort of right about dash lights lulling me into complacency. But, here is my rationale: 3 settings:


1) full on, we all know what that means, but in my case, I leave the fogs on, so full on turns them on too, unless high beams engaged.

2) in the middle setting of the headlight switch, with DRL, I have dim headlights (DRL), AND taillights. This is better than #3

3) in off position, DRL headlights and NO taillights


#3 is the worst, so why use it at all?


The usual nighttime scenario is: I fire up the car, light switch in mid position ( my version of “off), start backing out or even driving, notice I can’t see all that great and flip the switch to full on. It’s still better than doing the same with no taillights, as in the #3 off position. Yes, my taillights will burn out sooner. Other scenario is I start driving before dark; as it gets dark I have at least some taillight and some (dim) headlight on (#2 position). But others can see me, even though my headlights aren’t at their brightest.



I’m open to just about anything at this point, since headlight bulbs are not burned out:


1) just slap some better bulbs in, maybe alter the DRL function, and call it a day

2) #1 plus polish / restore / reseal outer lenses (PITA)

3) replace entire headlight assemblies ($$$)

4) do some HID hack. I assume a “proper” hack would also be $$$. Improper hack is out of the question for me, out of respect for oncoming drivers. Can anyone point me toward a “proper” hack?

Edited by Impatient
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Personally I see no point in having tailights on during the day but if you prefer to have them on during the day that's fine. No harm. I personally don't find having them on during the day provides any better safety (which I assume why you have them on during the day). To me it actually has the opposite effect. Since 99% of the cars on the road don't have any tailights on during the day, at first glance if I see lights on during the day I think that car is braking. Because why else would the tailights/brake lights be lit? It only takes me a split second to realize oh wait they are pretty dim, they must just have thier lights on. That to me at least is actually less safe but that's my opinion.


Also driving around with the fog lights on isn't helping your visibility. At very low speeds, say a parking lot, it's acceptable to be looking just a few feet in front of your car. But when moving at a reasonable speed you need to look further down the road. As you get to highway speeds you need to look even further down the road. Therfore the light immediately in front of the car is useless. What's worse is if the road is brightly lit right in front of you it doesn't allow your eyes to contract and allow you to see better down the road where the light is less bright.


Daniel stern has some good lighting info fyi. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html


He explains a lot. But as far as fog lights are concerned. They should only be used in poor weather or at slow speeds. And for the most part the oem fogs aren't very helpful.


Now no matter what path you take. If your headlights aren't clear it's all a waste of time and money. I know it sucks to get them clear. Car manufacturers really should figure out something better but at the end if the day it needs to be fixed. I did see a post on here with a YouTube of someone using mother metal polish. It looks to have worked shockingly well. I have done the wet sanding and polishing on a previous car and it is a bit of a pain. As far as sealing is concerned I've heard a thousand different products and techniques but none seem to be perfect/proven or permanent. Most do slow down the yellowing from happen again to some degree.


As far as an HID retrofit. There is a kit available. From TRS(the retrofit source), and I think lightwerkz. It's bolt on. Of course it does require baking and opening the headlights. Now I can't speak for the quality of this kit, no first hand experience. I do know the light output, while not blinding anyone, won't be as good as the next option.


I went with the bit more difficult route and used morimoto D2S 4.0's (GR-5 would also work). These use an OEM bulb type. In my case I went with OEM bulbs and ballasts. So in my case the only thing aftermarket is the projectors themself which were based off an OEM design and designed for HIDs. This does require customs brackets though and a bit of trimming of the OEM projector mounting bracket.


There is also the option of switching out the projector bowl for an hid version.


And finally in your case you could get JDM headlights but they need to be opened up and have the shields flipped (and modified a bit?) for them to be corrected to left hand drive.


Every option will result in what you wanted initially of having your high beams as drl as the HIDs won't like to run at a lower voltage.


Of course every option cost money, all will require HID bulbs and ballast. And getting quality OEM bulbs and quality ballast are important also. But there is no shortcuts to get good results sadly.


Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

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