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Use high beam for DRLs??


ckc
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laz - Thanks for taking the time to do this!

 

Not a problem, I enjoy doing this, and I am glad that Subaru made thing simple in terms of wiring. OYu should see what the Toyota DRL's systems look like, ugh, the horror! :icon_bigg

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And please let's not get into a why drl's suck thread, there is plenty of research all the way around pro and con, and it won't be resolved here, that's for sure...

DRL's suck :icon_surp please disconnect all DRL's so we motorcycle riders can be seen by blue headed old ladies during the day. Thank you.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22384

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How about the Canadian boys that have no choice? Maybe a good choice between HID's and still keeping the DRL's that are mandate by law. Plus you bike boys alrady have all the loud muffler to keep us awake and alert. :icon_bigg
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I just came back from experimenting with the Higbeam-DRL mod, and I found out some interesting things. To begin with I found out that the brown cable that is on the far end of the white plug that gets disconnected to disable DRL's is the only cable that turns off and on the DRL's.

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I will probably end up putting a switch as well for when I get tired of DRL's, or when I need them off.

If I just want to be able to turn the standard low beam DRLs off and on with a rocker or toggle switch would I just place the switch in line on this brown wire? How would I wire an switch that illuminates so that it would indicate when the DRLs are switched on? I like to limit hacking up my electrical system to what is only necessary to accomplish my goa so prefer to leave the experimentation to others, and by the way thanks for sleuthing the DRL electricals.

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If I just want to be able to turn the standard low beam DRLs off and on with a rocker or toggle switch would I just place the switch in line on this brown wire? How would I wire an switch that illuminates so that it would indicate when the DRLs are switched on? I like to limit hacking up my electrical system to what is only necessary to accomplish my goa so prefer to leave the experimentation to others, and by the way thanks for sleuthing the DRL electricals.

 

Yes all you need is a switch in the cut brown wire and you will have control over the DRL's. To have a lighted switch may be more work since the wire is a negative (-) ground connection and it has no power running to it. I am sure you can find one where it has a separate lead for the light and wire that connects to a positive (+) power source. As a matter of fact I think all lighted switches have three leads and one is for the light. It would be simple if that is the case. One end of the switch to the side of the DRL's module wire. One end to the other side, and the third to a power. When the circuit is on it will connect ground to the light therefore turning it on. I myself just got the rest of the supplies I need to finish this. I got a relay that is used for cutoff switches on alarms in a base, the diode (if needed), a simple on/off switch and the crimp connectors. I will take pics of the stuff later on, and maybe I can finish this project today.

 

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Let me start by saying that I like DRL's, and in particular I'm very happy with the system Subaru uses, with dimmed low-beams. I figure that the dimming will make the bulbs last longer, and either way, bulbs are cheap and easy to replace. I actually use the DRL's with running lights at night unless I'm on a dark road, but driving around most places in town with streetlights, I don't even need full low-beams at night.

 

I think the system on e.g. Saturns sucks, you still get tons o' glare from them during the day, and IMHO this whole project is a big waste of your collective time.

 

Having said all that, here's some potentially useful info. I recall reading/hearing somewhere that the high-beam DRL's are simply run in series, so that each bulb gets about 7V.

 

Andy

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Thanks amason for your opinion. I like DRL's as well, but unfortunately with the upgrade to HID's one can no longer use the OEM system without damaging the ballasts. I also will like to keep the DRL's, and to me this is not a waste of time. The Subaru system is a very unique one in that as opposed to many other systems the Subaru light system uses a negative ground switched on/off system.

 

If everyone that started any project would think from the beginning that it is a waste of time, many great things would have left undone throughout history. I think the greatest waste of time would be to do something and not record it for others so that they don't have to start from scratch. After all that is the spirit of community boards like these, to share knowledge, be useful or not.

 

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Laz -

 

Your work is very appreciated and I have learned a lot from reading your posts.. thank you!

 

Food for thought.. here is what I'm trying to achieve;

 

a) HID low beam

b) DRL is the full power low beam HID (just like Volkswagon Toregs)

(but here is the twist)

c) Put an inline switch that will disengage the DRL (for when I desire no

DRL), but not impact use of low beam HID when I turn headlights on.

Basically just kill DRL function.

 

Here is why:

1. I want to put HIDS in car

2. I want to use full power HID as DRL (especially with bulb warrienties

these days)

3. Wife says DRLs must stay - so must keep her happy

4. On extreem foggy nights, I want to turn off HID DRL and be able to choose driving with just amber Fogs (I've done that mod thanks to posts here) -

 

My goal is to use a blank switch to the left of the stearing wheel - but haven't figured that out yet either.

 

Laz - any thoughs and inspirational ideas are welcome :)

 

JDKobe

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A pointed out earlier, using low-power high beams as DRLs is the way Saturn & some other GMs do it.

Even at low power, it aims light right into oncoming drivers' eyes. Extremely irritating.

It is apparently not illegal in many places, but it's a bad idea.

06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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Laz -

 

Your work is very appreciated and I have learned a lot from reading your posts.. thank you!

 

Food for thought.. here is what I'm trying to achieve;

 

a) HID low beam

b) DRL is the full power low beam HID (just like Volkswagon Toregs)

(but here is the twist)

c) Put an inline switch that will disengage the DRL (for when I desire no

DRL), but not impact use of low beam HID when I turn headlights on.

Basically just kill DRL function.

 

Here is why:

1. I want to put HIDS in car

2. I want to use full power HID as DRL (especially with bulb warrienties

these days)

3. Wife says DRLs must stay - so must keep her happy

4. On extreem foggy nights, I want to turn off HID DRL and be able to choose driving with just amber Fogs (I've done that mod thanks to posts here) -

 

My goal is to use a blank switch to the left of the stearing wheel - but haven't figured that out yet either.

 

Laz - any thoughs and inspirational ideas are welcome :)

 

JDKobe

 

Just use a relay connected to ground and activated by the DRL system. In other words the brown cable that comes out of the DRL module would be connected to a switch and then to a relay. The relay will just switch ground (connected to ground) This will give it full 14V ground. The other side of the brown cable can be left disconnected. Of course power for the relay will come from the green cable in the white connector. When the DRL's come on, it will activate the relay which will send full 14V power to the HID's. When you want the drl's off, you just flip the switch.

 

This would have to be tested of course to make sure the voltage works correctly. i can probably draw out a diagram, but if I understand correctly what you are telling me, it should not be too hard.

 

I got the high beams working now, I will post in a few minutes with pics how I did it, and my thoughts on the mod.

 

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A pointed out earlier, using low-power high beams as DRLs is the way Saturn & some other GMs do it.

Even at low power, it aims light right into oncoming drivers' eyes. Extremely irritating.

It is apparently not illegal in many places, but it's a bad idea.

 

You are forgetting that lexus and bmw's also do this. Just yesterday I was driving in front of a X5 that had high beams as DRL's. Not annoying in the day, hence the name Daytime Running Lights.

 

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Here are pictures of the materials I used for the high beam DRL's:

 

This is the two point relay with the wire harness, assorted connectors, and diode (which did not work)

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5059.jpg

 

 

Close up of relay (front and back:

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5060.jpg

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5061.jpg

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5063.jpg

 

Diode comes pre-installed in between the coil to avoid spikes burning anything:

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5065.jpg

 

Hidden switch to disable DRl's at will:

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5066.jpg

 

Basic connections are as follow:

 

1. Cut brown wire on white connector. If all you want is to enable/disable DRL's at will all you have to do is put a switch in between the cut wire and you will be done.

 

2. End of brown wire coming from the DRL module gets attached to the one end of the switch, the other wire from the switch gets attached to the terminal of the relay that is always on the ON position. (white wire on this picture.)

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5065.jpg

 

3. Red thick wire from relay harness gets attached to Red wire on the black connector:

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5071.jpg

 

4. Small red wire (coil positive power) gets attached to light green wire on white connector. This is a constant positive voltage.

 

(This picture shows the positive coil wire attached to the green with yellow, but that is a mistake, it is the solid green next to it in the same white connector that it needs to be attached to)

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5070.jpg

 

5. Orange wire gets attached to other side of the cut brown wire which comes from the headlight switch. This will be the negative power wire that will turn on the relay and turn off the DRL high beams when you turn on your headlights.

 

That is it. Make sure your switch is in the ON position, and your high beam DRL's should work at a disminished power. There is however one problem that I tried to work out and that is while you have your DRL's on the high beam indicator will light up in the dashboard. I have to study the diagrams more to see how to disable this. If the high beam bulb does not bother you, then there is no problem. I have not tested this setup with long term use yet since I just finished it tonight. I basically picked up a cutoff switch relay from a car electronics store and the connectors and adapted it to this setup.

 

If you do the same the red coil thin wire will come pre attached to the red thick wire. you just snip it off. if not any heavy duty relay should work for you. This is what it looks like in my dark garage, tomorrow I will take pics outside in the sunlight looking at it from the front:

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5084.jpg

 

I still need to disable the high beam indicator, and my guess is that I need to tap into the wire further up the line. I have an idea, but once again I got tire today. The same relay can be used to switch that off, and the diode did not work since the lights are turned on via a negative power wire, I should have thought of this before since diodes only work on positive voltage.

 

I know many people hate the high beam DRl's, and other love it, but whatever your position if you attempt this you are own your own and at your own risk. I take no responsibility if you fry something (higly unlikely if you are ok with wiring) or break anything else. it is always nerve wrecking working on your brand new car. If you have any questions, or suggestions, or just plain hate it, you know what to do.

 

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I thought BMW used the halos as DRLs.

(Editied for digital dyslexia... )

06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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Hey, I didn't say it was a GOOD idea. These are the people who came up with I-drive...
06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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Laz - I kills me to see people talking about the value of high beam DRLs - It is poeple like you figuring out something and and lending advise to others that makes this a great forum.. as you said, if you don't like it you'll change it - but to not try and see, that is just unimaginative. Kudos to you.
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jdkobe: It shouldn't kill you, it's just our opinion.

 

laz: No offence meant, btw, I just don't like high-beam DRL's. My mantra: never put off until tomorrow what you can put off until the day after tomorrow.

 

(Corollary: hard work might pay off someday, but procrastination always pays off now.)

 

Anyway, I'd hoped to be seen as neutral on this whole thing by including a useful part in my post, as I'm not very likely to ever be driving anywhere near your completed project!

 

Andy

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My goal is to use a blank switch to the left of the stearing wheel - but haven't figured that out yet either.

 

Just a thought - but when the e-brake is on, the drl's are turned off. I'm not suggesting pulling the brake, however, it seems to imply there's a kill circuit already in existence connected through the e-brake circuit... Don't know what could be done with it, but thought I'd mention it :)

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Just a thought - but when the e-brake is on, the drl's are turned off. I'm not suggesting pulling the brake, however, it seems to imply there's a kill circuit already in existence connected through the e-brake circuit... Don't know what could be done with it, but thought I'd mention it :)

 

The wire from the parking brake is the grey one in this picture:

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album29/IMG_5071.jpg

 

You achieve the same result by either cutting and putting a switch on the brown wire in the white plug, or the grey wire in the black plug.

 

With that said I have been driving with the high beam DRL's for a couple of days now. I actually kind of like having the lights on DRL's and knowing it is not my low beams burning slowly. One thing is that I have compared it to other cars with high beam DRL's (BMW) and the DRL's in the Legacy are still brighter, so the next step is to make them dimmer by at least another 25%. There is a safe volateg that tehy can be run at, and I believe from what I read that the optimal voltage is 10 VDC. Right now they are running at 12.5 VDC. And of course the other part of the puzzle is the switching off the high beam light in the dashboard. Hopefully i will have some time on Friday to take care of these two things, or at least one.

 

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Wonderful work you are doing LAZ. I enjoy reading your post and appreciate your generosity in sharing your findings. I am not quite ready to tackle this project just yet, but I will keep it on file for later use.

Again, thanks very much.

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I'll have to agree with amason. I'll go into the details one of these days.
06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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The fog light option is what I usually do, on cars not equipped with DRLs. Relayed off the running lights (inaccurately called parking lights in the USA). I do have to actively turn them on, depending on the car.
06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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