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Cylinder misfire! Help!


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Help!

 

On the highway, went to change to the passing lane and accelerate past someone. Not aggressively. I try not to let too much boost pressure build under 3k. Then a "BOooHh" sound and a stutter which almost felt like I broke something and then the engine light, traction control and S started flashing with what was clearly a cylinder misfire shaking the car like I had a flat.

 

Scanned the code with my accessport - cylinder 3 misfire.

 

Im going to dig into this tomorrow and do the usual diag. But I've got to ask, does this smell like ringland failure to anyone?

 

Thanks.

 

Rick.

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Welp.

 

Took out a very nasty plug and ignition coil. Swapped the coils from cylinder 1 and three. Sure enough, misfire went from cylinder 3 to 1. Went to subaru and got an OE coil. Problem solved.

 

I performed a Compression test on those two cylinders just for good measure. Cyl 3-139psi and cyl 1-145 psi. Glad it was just a coil as I was fearing the dreaded ringland failure.

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Thanks!!

 

I was super worried about this dreaded ringland failure. I'm newer to the subaru world and at least have some piece of mind with it now seeing decent compression in those two cylinders.

 

Next on to cylinder 2 and 4. But cylinder 4 is such a PITA, I asked an ex subaru tech at my work how to get that last spark plug done since there's about 1 3/4" of clearance between the coil and frame rail. He said you have to use a jack and block of wood underneath the oil pan, undo the two 14mm bolts holding the engine to the cradle and then slide it over to get those drivers side plugs out.

 

Holy moly.

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Thanks!!

 

I was super worried about this dreaded ringland failure. I'm newer to the subaru world and at least have some piece of mind with it now seeing decent compression in those two cylinders.

 

Next on to cylinder 2 and 4. But cylinder 4 is such a PITA, I asked an ex subaru tech at my work how to get that last spark plug done since there's about 1 3/4" of clearance between the coil and frame rail. He said you have to use a jack and block of wood underneath the oil pan, undo the two 14mm bolts holding the engine to the cradle and then slide it over to get those drivers side plugs out.

 

Holy moly.

 

You don't have to do that, I can get all four out without jacking up the engine at all. As mentioned, you just have to rotate the coil to pull it out. To get the plug, you just have to do one piece at a time on the socket wrench. Socket -> short extension, wrench. Get it broke loose, remove the wrench, and use your fingers to do the rest. Or some people use a swivel joint.

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You don't have to do that, I can get all four out without jacking up the engine at all. As mentioned, you just have to rotate the coil to pull it out. To get the plug, you just have to do one piece at a time on the socket wrench. Socket -> short extension, wrench. Get it broke loose, remove the wrench, and use your fingers to do the rest. Or some people use a swivel joint.

 

I do it exactly the same way.

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Yep, just changed my plugs last weekend. I got the dreaded #4 out easy by rotating the coil pack and wire up and forward after popping the plastic clip out of the valve cover.

 

With the battery remove, I think 2 and 4 were easier then 1 and 3 with the air filter box removed.

 

I did jack the car on the drivers side so I wasn't bending down so low.

 

I removed all four plugs without removing the coil wire.

 

I pushed that piece of frame insulation down on both frame rails. It folded and made a nice shelf under the coil, that caught stuff as I drop it.

 

Oh, put a light coat of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs. Don't over tighten them. Run them in until the washer crushes then about a 1/8 turn more.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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