Dinosaurs In Space Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Dearest members, I am at my wit's end with my car and thus I'm asking for help. Vehicle 2005 LGT Wagon 5sp Problem: Clutch won't disengage fully Background: When leaving the house, the car was impossible to get out of first gear into second. I pulled over, turned the car off and could go into all gears with engine not spinning. Went to start the car in 1st and the car lunged.. Reading about "side-stepping" the clutch, that seemed to "jog" whatever into place and allowed me to drive for a few more weeks. However, under boost I noticed the clutch started slipping Replacement Tore the transmission out and saw that the Clutch Masters FX300 was completely gone and it took my OEM WRX SMFW with it. TSK3 throw-out bearing looked fine. Ordered Exedy TYF001 Flywheel and Competition Stage 2 15021-2100 kit to replace. Everything installed fine but the new clutch would still not disengage. Ordered and installed Exedy CMC and bled the system. Still won't disengage. Ordered and installed new clutch fork after reading about the failures. Still won't disengage. I have ordered a new clutch slave cylinder as I think this is the only thing that hasn't been replaced yet but I'm worried it won't fix it for some reason. Can anyone help me by measuring their clutch fork / slave cylinder piston travel? I feel like mine is not going as far as it needs to. I don't see anything in the service manual about this distance. -Regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 I would strongly suggest replacing that throw out bearing while you're doing the job, I don't know about the tsk3 bearings, but the bearing is what always seems to fail first on these cars, before the disc wears out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinosaurs In Space Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 Desperate Bump... I've got the tranny back out.. Clutch disc moves freely on the input shaft. Input shaft has no radial or axial play and the runout is fine. Clutch disc orientation was correct. TOB in good health and even though it is TSK3 it has all same dimensions as stock except ID. Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 the clutch pedal may have a threaded rod to adjust out, lifting the pedal farther off the ground and allowing more travel before the pedal hits the floor. that may be enough to full disengage the clutch. its either that or a bent clutch fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinosaurs In Space Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 The clutch fork is brand new. I've tried adjusting the clutch pedal with no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Did the fork fall off the pivot ball putting the tranny back in ? It happened to me once. The piston from the slave cylinder moves horizontally back, if it moves in the downward direction, it fall off the pivot ball. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Have you measured the amount of travel of your slave cylinder when you press the clutch pedal? I did this measurement a while back. Will try to find how much I measured. I had issues when I installed my new clutch a while back. See here. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/getting-frustrated-clutch-pedal-adjustment-268995.html?t=268995 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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