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My 07 Spec B performance #'s


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Req torque is probably just a value the ECU uses when calculating load. If you wanna know if the new engine is running well I'd recommend changing your monitors.

Boost

AFR

Feedback Knock

Fine Knock Learn

AF Learning 1

AF Correction 1

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Just looking at numbers like that won't tell anything. You need proper logs to be able to judge how well the engine is running and how good the tune is. Things like A/F correction and learning along with a wide band O2 sensor reading, knock correction (feedback, fine learning), RPM, boost. If you're trying to see how well the tune is done, you'll also want to log final fueling and target boost. Unfortunately logging all of this at the same time will probably slow down the sample rate to be not super useful, so it's better to try and evaluate only one thing at a time (i.e. boost control, fueling, etc).

 

My main point is that just changing your monitors and looking at min/max isn't that useful. It's common to see wide swings in A/F Correction or pulled timing due to knock occasionally, so you really need to look at these parameters over time in a proper log.

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So do these numbers tell how well it runs and what do they mean?

 

Just looking at numbers like that won't tell anything. You need proper logs to be able to judge how well the engine is running and how good the tune is.

 

My main point is that just changing your monitors and looking at min/max isn't that useful. It's common to see wide swings in A/F Correction or pulled timing due to knock occasionally, so you really need to look at these parameters over time in a proper log.

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One step at a time buddy. Learn more about how to interpret the data and stop driving the car at WOT. And check your oil often until you have a baseline for if/how much oil it uses.

 

I setup my first LGT on a catless UP and Cobb's stg1 map for YEARS and upgraded everything else that's easily fixable while I learned about making power safely. You know what I learned more than anything? Don't mod a Subaru for power unless you're willing to spend some money.

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One step at a time buddy. Learn more about how to interpret the data and stop driving the car at WOT. And check your oil often until you have a baseline for if/how much oil it uses.

 

I setup my first LGT on a catless UP and Cobb's stg1 map for YEARS and upgraded everything else that's easily fixable while I learned about making power safely. You know what I learned more than anything? Don't mod a Subaru for power unless you're willing to spend some money.

 

WOT? I have a Invidia catted dp, nameless axleback deletes, an AP v3, and a bp'd tmic. I have just spent $7k on a new motor and turbo. I have checked all my hoses and bought all new hose clamps for all connections. I'm not beating on it. No hard shifts and gradually getting to peak boost. In not doing hole shots or burning any rubber. Just some back road spirited driving.

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Cobb’s opensource maps are for the STOCK downpipe. You should get a custom tune for the Invidia. Your future tuner can let you know how the car is running if you aren’t interested in chasing a rabbit hole of what each of those paramaters mean and what they do or where they should be at ideally. Edited by Notorious
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Cobb’s opensource maps are for the STOCK downpipe. You should get a custom tune for the Invidia. Your future tuner can let you know how the car is running if you aren’t interested in chasing a rabbit hole of what each of those paramaters mean and what they do or where they should be at ideally.
That isn't entirely true. The stage 2 maps are for an aftermarket turboback exhaust. The stage 1 map is for the stock downpipe. I do agree that a custom tune will be better though.

 

See here for the link.

https://www.cobbtuning.com/maps/2005-legacy-gt-outback-xt-mt-stage-2-map

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The Cobb stage2 OTS map is designed for use with the Cobb downpipe. It’s a basic somewhat conservative map. Since every car is a little different a pro tune or e tune is a good idea at stage 2 levels.

 

There are certain parameters to monitor live that can be very helpful in keeping from destroying your engine. Logging is the best way to determine how well the tune is working for your car. If you’re reaching peak boost whether rolling in slowly or by mashing the throttle you ARE going WOT. If there is knock occurring at WOT then you can potentially be doing damage to your engine. You have 7k into the engine... spend ~$300 and get an etune. Think of it as insurance...plus you’ll learn a lot about logging during the process.

 

The help that’s available on this forum can’t be beat! My advice to you is to listen and learn. A lot of the info you ask for is already here. I find that using google to search rather than the forum search is easier.. just add legacy gt to the end of your search topic.

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I thought it would have been assumed that I understand he's well beyond ots tunes.

 

I guess I assumed he had a safe map on the car, but then that I'd recommend learning the importance of data logging before going around at WOT. Maybe even explore other aspects of the car and enjoy the process without focusing on power. The car can be updated in lots of very noticeable and challenging ways that don't involve such a risk. Just trying to offer my experience.

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I hear you all. Like I said I'm not beating on it. I don't go past 5500 rpms. It is on the stage 1 tune right now. I thought the Cobb AP v3 was a tune for this car. Why buy it then if I have to go get it e-tuned? I have went and bought what was suggested ie: BP kit for tmic, catted dp, AP v3, tighten up all the connections and vacuum lines, replaced the turbo, de-screen all the banjo bolts, running full synthetic, got a low mileage long block, timing done, all new gaskets every where. I was just merely asking if the numbers were good. I don't have a PC so I can't view any logs. And now you're telling me that all that's been done, I can't enjoy a little bit of spirited driving with out an e-tune? The car is practically brand new now. How did you drive yours when it was brand new? I'm not an old man content on driving a sports sedan like I own a my grandmother's Buick.
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I have a vf46 installed which is the turbo that comes with it. I was mistaking before and thought it was a vf48. Every thing installed and on the car was made for it,Including the ej255. I know it data logs. But you need the AP manager installed on a PC in order to look at the logs I thought.
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I thought you put a VF52 in it?

 

You should load the stg2 map then.

 

I want to put a vf52 in but decided to buy a new oem turbo. Once I do put the vf52 in I understand that I will need to get the car professionally tuned. So I should be running the stage 2 map for my setup?

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