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So you’re about to put a new short block in your LGT...


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...what else *should* you do while it’s apart?

 

Conditions:

Car is a stock’ish entertaining all weather commuter and kid transport.

Has 89k miles

Never going stage 2, etc.

Make it reliable for another 90k+ miles

 

Thoughts:

Install a beefier FSB (already running Whiteline RSB)

Stock replacement clutch only has 30k miles, swap it again??

Lubricate starter at minimum or replace it? (screeches in cold)

ARP head studs? (Stock head gaskets gave out at 59k)

Replace turbo coolant lines? (spare set already sitting on garage shelf)

Replace all coolant and vacuum lines?

 

 

What would you do?

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Yes, from dealer. Local block builder buys their SBs from same dealer and modifys them. This local builder doesn’t advertise blocks for our cars, only WRX and STI.

 

For my education, how would a stage 1 block differ from stock and what benefit would I see from this?

 

Oh and I’m in a $200/week rental car until it’s fixed so anything delaying the repair better be magical. 😜

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Blown headgasket usually don't require a shortblock replacement, what happened to the block?

 

 

 

My headgaskets gave out after 110K miles with the stock head bolts. I'd just stick to those if not chasing power. Just get quality head gaskets and have the heads machined.

 

The 2010 head bolts are already higher spec than anything prior:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/psa-subaru-changed-headbolts-improved-2010-onwards-271129.html

 

 

 

Get some 2008+ Sti exhaust cams because they can be found cheap and give you 1mm extra lift.

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Yes, from dealer. Local block builder buys their SBs from same dealer and modifys them. This local builder doesn’t advertise blocks for our cars, only WRX and STI.

 

For my education, how would a stage 1 block differ from stock and what benefit would I see from this?

 

Oh and I’m in a $200/week rental car until it’s fixed so anything delaying the repair better be magical. 😜

 

An IAG Stage 1 has forged pistons, stronger rods, performance bearings, is balanced and blueprinted too. It upgrades a lot of common failure points that even stock engines have so theoretically should make your new motor more reliable.

 

Are you certain you have no desire to up the power anytime after? This would be the perfect time to put in the go fast bits and roll the costs into the replacement work.

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Most stage 1 blocks fix any ring gap issues present on stock shortblocks, ensure proper bearing clearances as well as upgrading the bearing, and offer better pistons. Well worth the price, imo.

 

I would do the clutch, given its *only $300 for the PP and disc. I assume you know about the clutch fork upgrades and throw out bearing upgrade (tsk3 kit).

 

I would do head studs and new gaskets as well as rebuilding the heads, if the head gaskets were intact before disassembly I would check them for straightness and clean and rebuild them myself. Also, a good time to upgrade valve springs to STI set. BC set can be had for $80ish dollars.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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I would do the clutch, ARP studs, timing belt and water pump. You can lubricated the starter, but it likely won't last as long as new one. If you are mechanically inclined it doesn't seem to hard to take it of, of you don't mind regreasing it. You just need to remove the intercooler.

 

I am not sure of the salt situation down in MD or how often you drive in those conditions. I would inspect the ignition coils and coolant lines for corrosion. If coils show signs of metal heat sinks expanding from rust replace it. If the coolant line are rusty replace them. I would inspect the heads for damage as burnt valve seem common. Check the clearance on the valves. I would probably skip STI exhaust cams and stiffer springs for a stage 1 Legacy GT.

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Most stage 1 blocks fix any ring gap issues present on stock shortblocks, ensure proper bearing clearances as well as upgrading the bearing, and offer better pistons. Well worth the price, imo.

 

I would do the clutch, given its *only $300 for the PP and disc. I assume you know about the clutch fork upgrades and throw out bearing upgrade (tsk3 kit).

 

I would do head studs and new gaskets as well as rebuilding the heads, if the head gaskets were intact before disassembly I would check them for straightness and clean and rebuild them myself. Also, a good time to upgrade valve springs to STI set. BC set can be had for $80ish dollars.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

I was under the impression that the TSK3 kit was for repairing a damaged throw out bearing seat? Is it an upgraded bearing as well? Is there just a bearing upgrade out there without the repair sleeve?

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I was under the impression that the TSK3 kit was for repairing a damaged throw out bearing seat? Is it an upgraded bearing as well? Is there just a bearing upgrade out there without the repair sleeve?

 

It is a larger, heavier duty bearing included with the kit, for something you don't get to check on very often I would get the Kit if you have it apart already. For the cost it is a worthwhile preventative maintenance upgrade.

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So, if you were to upgrade to a stage 2 clutch, the throw out bearing that comes with it is still just a stock bearing?

 

Sorry to stomp on your thread NVAKeith, I will take it elsewhere if you would like.

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So, if you were to upgrade to a stage 2 clutch, the throw out bearing that comes with it is still just a stock bearing?

 

Sorry to stomp on your thread NVAKeith, I will take it elsewhere if you would like.

 

the TOB in the TSK-3 kit has more material, so hopefully it lasts longer. I've got this kit with my Southbend stage 2 clutch, 50kish miles so far

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Install a beefier FSB (already running Whiteline RSB)

Stock replacement clutch only has 30k miles, swap it again??

Lubricate starter at minimum or replace it? (screeches in cold)

ARP head studs? (Stock head gaskets gave out at 59k)

Replace turbo coolant lines? (spare set already sitting on garage shelf)

Replace all coolant and vacuum lines?

 

 

What would you do?

Definitely the FSB (I had one in my garage I wasn't able to install that they are installing, seeing as I am in the same boat as you)

If the clutch is past 50%, I'd replace it.

Starter can be done whenever - it's easy to pull and clean/relubricate

Not sure about the head studs. I didn't think HGs were a big issue with our cars - mine have been fine

Definitely replace the coolant lines to the turbo

Other vacuum/coolant lines if they look worn/hardened

 

short block doesn't come with a timing kit, so unless you want to re-use yours, you'll want new idlers, tensioner, belt, etc.

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Thanks everyone for the input. I had headgaskets done at 59k miles and during that replaced timing belt, clutch, plugs, and had heads checked by machine shop (they were fine). Did all that with the intention of not having to touch any of it again for 90k miles. Having to deal with a bad bearing 30k miles later really sucks.

 

Honestly, if the heads and turbo show damage from contaminated oil the car will be buttoned up with just a new SB and be traded in because a propper fix will exceed the car’s value. If heads and turbo check out then we’re rollin on together for the foreseeable future.

 

I reached out to IAG, they don’t stock built SBs for our cars. However, they will build a stage 2 for it but lead time is 2-4 weeks. If that would bulletproof the car then I’ll have to consider it depending on $$$$.

 

I’m meeting with the dealership’s lead engine technician tomorrow to discuss options.

 

I forgot about upgrading the clutch fork and TOB, thanks for the tip!

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An IAG Stage 1 has forged pistons, stronger rods, performance bearings, is balanced and blueprinted too. It upgrades a lot of common failure points that even stock engines have so theoretically should make your new motor more reliable.

 

Are you certain you have no desire to up the power anytime after? This would be the perfect time to put in the go fast bits and roll the costs into the replacement work.

 

Most stage 1 blocks fix any ring gap issues present on stock shortblocks, ensure proper bearing clearances as well as upgrading the bearing, and offer better pistons. Well worth the price, imo...

 

*LGT.com enabling engaged*

 

I've been in touch with IAG. Seriously considering one of their staged short blocks to bulletproof the engine. Challenge is that I don't yet know if the heads and turbo are unscathed... Hope to hear from dealer Monday on the turbo's condition.

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*LGT.com enabling engaged*

 

I've been in touch with IAG. Seriously considering one of their staged short blocks to bulletproof the engine. Challenge is that I don't yet know if the heads and turbo are unscathed... Hope to hear from dealer Monday on the turbo's condition.

 

images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcSSjqtJ0cpgtvYE7DSXxtLoOFdSns9kfaIiOq49MMfHbPBFQDnY

 

If you get a built block and are replacing the turbo, well, *cough BNR cough* :hide:

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Now a build thread, mods please add to the sticky :lol:

 

Woosh, are you on stock internals? Can you make a thread when you get your BNR on? Interested to see new BNR builds.

 

Plus it would help us convince NVAKeith here to go built. :p

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Now a build thread, mods please add to the sticky :lol:

 

 

 

Woosh, are you on stock internals? Can you make a thread when you get your BNR on? Interested to see new BNR builds.

 

 

 

Plus it would help us convince NVAKeith here to go built. :p

 

 

 

Yes stock internals, stock fueling (for now). Will not be pushing the 16g even close to what she’s capable of (yet). I’ll be doing a build thread myself shortly as I’ve done a shit ton of work to this car over the last 6-7 months since purchase. Will be going with a built block when that time comes. Hopefully not TOO soon

 

Yea the Legacy community does not help one bit saving you $ aside from the DIY side of it to help you save just so you can spend more on better/upgraded parts

Hahaha

Edited by Wooosh
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Now a build thread, mods please add to the sticky [emoji38]

 

 

 

Woosh, are you on stock internals? Can you make a thread when you get your BNR on? Interested to see new BNR builds.

 

 

 

Plus it would help us convince NVAKeith here to go built. :p

I think woosh has a 4th gen. I dont think a 16g is much of an upgrade for the 5th gen up top anyway where we need it.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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I think woosh has a 4th gen. I dont think a 16g is much of an upgrade for the 5th gen up top anyway where we need it.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Huh. Didnt see that.

 

It's ok, enabling knows no make or model :p

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I think woosh has a 4th gen. I dont think a 16g is much of an upgrade for the 5th gen up top anyway where we need it.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Yes. 05 GT Limited 5MT wagon. Didn’t realize all u guys were 5th gens. My little bro has a 2012 GT.

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Staged block not looking likely. SOA is providing some $ towards this repair and dealer said that assistance would be a no-go if I introduced an IAG shortblock into the fun. This dealer supplies IAG with some parts so I was hoping that relationship would help make this work but it appears I’d have to cover the whole tab. I’ve already got two needy project cars that could use the $,$$$. :(
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