Jump to content

Finished 5MT Swap. 3 issues remain. . .

Recommended Posts

Just finished 4eat to 5mt in my 95 legacy l wagon. Trans is out of a 95 l sedan. I'm 99% sure all of the swap wiring is correct, but it won't crank with the key..? Not sure what could be causing this. That's issue number one. Issue number two is that the radiator fans will cycle on and cycle off non-stop. I notice a relay click under the dash when this happens. I deleted AC when I did the swap, that may have something to do with it. Last issue, and the biggest issue, is that I can go into 1-3-5-R perfectly fine. If i put it into 2 or 4 it seems to pop out of gear. Although, if I really pull the shifter into the gear, it grabs fine. It's almost like it nearly gets in gear, but not quite. Any insight on any of these 3 issues would be wonderful as i am stumped and am ready to be done with this. :-]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I connected the two wires on the white plug that was on the auto shifter. That let my key out. And wired the last two pins of the 4-3 transmission plug i thought that was the neutral position bypass or whatever. Is that right? 2. Yes i did. Were they supposed to be apart?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. I'm not sure off the top of my head, would need to look at the wiring diagram in the FSM.


2. Yes, those two green connectors are for diagnostic/programming. They should be disconnected from each other under normal circumstances. That's what's causing your radiator fan cycling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I know what I did wrong. Gonna try in just a little bit to see if I'm able to fix that. Worse comes to worse I could put a switch in there to start it. x). & Awesome. Will unplug that. Good to know. Last issue though is the most worrysome. It goes into gear totally fine with the car off, but it doesn't seem to go all the way in. I can pull pretty hard and hold it in gear, but if I let go, it wants to just pop back out..?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i fixed all of those issues, but the car is undriveable due to in literally ever gear except reverse it grinds insanely unless i put my wjole bodyweight into holding the shifter in its spot. If i let off a little it pushes it out of gear and grinds a lot. :/
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could have a linkage problem. What is the history on this trans? Do you know if it was working before?


I had a 5MT spend a little more than 10 years slowly dying on me. At the end the internal bearings were so done that it had internal alignment problems that made it jump out of 4th.


But by that time there was so much metal in the oil that the input seal failed making it very obvious that the whole unit was done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the car I got the trans out of had about 300k miles, but the shifter cable and shifter itself has their own sloppy issues so I thought that it would all be good once I put it in and fixed those. All of the linkage and bushings looked to be okay and didn't seem to really have any play. When i first started the car up, though, the throwout bearing was sitting right up against the pressure plate making an awful grinding, so i'm going to check and make sure that's set right.. boy I don't want to take a trans out another trans..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay getting hopeful now. Where should the throwout bearing be with the pedal up? I had a grinding when the car was idling until i loosened the clutch cable to where the throwout bearing was slightly off of the pressure plate. BUT I think the grinding was from the TOB just lightly touching the pressure plate do perhaps it wad wobbly and making the grinding noise. Should I have tightened it? I can see inside the transmission enough where the clutch fork boot is. How should this be set up? When I bought the car the cable wasn't even attached so i have no reference point.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Factory Service Manual says:


1. Gears are difficult to intermesh.

The cause for difficulty in shifting gears can be classified into two kinds: one is malfunction of the gear shift system and the

other is malfunction of the transmission. However, if the operation is heavy and engagement of the gears is difficult, defective

clutch disengagement may also be responsible. Check whether the clutch is correctly functioning, before checking the gear

shift system and transmission.


It then lists some internal causes and their fixes, but I think we can ignore those for now.


2. Gear slips out.

(1) Gear slips out when coasting on rough road.

(2) Gear slips out during acceleration.


(a) Defective pitching stopper adjustment - Adjust.

(b) Loose engine mounting bolts - Tighten or replace.

© Worn fork shifter, broken shifter fork rail spring - Replace.

(d) Worn or damaged ball bearing - Replace.

(e) Excessive clearance between splines of synchronizer hub

and synchronizer sleeve - Replace.

(f) Worn tooth step of synchronizer hub (responsible for slipout of 3rd gear) - Replace.

(g) Worn 1st driven gear, needle bearing and race - Replace.

(h) Worn 2nd driven gear, needle bearing and race - Replace.

(i) Worn 3rd drive gear and bushing - Replace.

(j) Worn 4th drive gear and bushing - Replace.

(k) Worn reverse idler gear and bushing - Replace.


4. Noisy clutch

Examine whether the noise is generated when the clutch is disengaged, engaged, or partially engaged.

(a) Broken, worn or unlubricated release bearing - Replace release bearing.

(b) Insufficient lubrication of pilot bearing - Apply grease.

© Loose clutch disc hub - Replace clutch disc.

(d) Loose torsion spring retainer - Replace clutch disc.

(e) Deteriorated or broken torsion spring - Replace clutch disc.





Before or during assembling, lubricate the following

points with a light coat of grease.

* Inner groove of release bearing

* Contact surface of lever and pivot

* Contact surface of lever and bearing

* Transmission main shaft spline (Use grease containing molybdenum disulphide.)


However I didn't find a procedure and spec for setting the clutch cable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a 96 outback with 5mt cable clutch, that sucker is a bitch to get feeling correct. usually it feels like its about 1/4" off the floor. as for how far off the TB is from the clutch plate, mine seems to like sitting about 1/2" back or closer, but not touching. my brackets are all beat up so i really dont know what is normal for that car, it has 317k miles on it and runs like a champ. he does grind a bit going down to first from any gear when going faster than 18mph or so tho...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use