7subaru4 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Hi everyone. Sorry for my bad english I wish my first post would have been to help someone instead of asking for help, even if I learned a lot since last year I am still a beginner with subi. I am living in Auckland since May 2018 from France and I bought a subi few weeks later my arrival. Its a JDM SW Legacy GT '07 5EAT with an EJ20X engine. I am pretty new to Subaru, first car of the brand, finally Really good car and so fun to drive with the stock 265hp. I have been driving it for 20 000km and since 3 months I have few problems : - I have the feeling that its not that punchy as before and start to make more noise when the turbo strigger (I would says since I wash the engine with dish liquid and water, but I could be wrong), like air leak noise, from the engine, but its really hard to says where it come from and if it's normal after all, but I would says that noise wasn't here when I bought it. I am planning on doing a Boost leak, but seems a little bit tricky on those models (lots of pipe to block), so I bought a Boost gauge to see while driving how it goes, unfortunately its not arrived yet, will keep you updated. How many PSI am I suppose to have ? - I also have a weird smell when driving in sport mode at hight RPM, impossible for me to identify. Didn't seems to smell like burned oil. It's more look like ATF burned but I don't see how it's possible. Its alway on hight acceleration around 4500-6000rpm and can smell it only 2-3s after for maybe 30s. No smoke. - Finally the transmission is acting weirdly, like when on 3rd gear and manual mode on a small climb, at half pedal throttle I am at 2500rpm and If I push more the pedal the engine climb to 3400rpm in half a second without a big speed increase and then they both increase together like it should do, its like it just changed gear but its not. Could be the torque converter doing his job, don't know. First AT, but its funny. This problem is there since I bought it. And I am not talking about the hard shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear but I am used to it now and lots of subi has this issues without really been an issues for the transmission on the long time. Car history : Owned by a guy in Japan for 7 years and been imported to NZ in 2014. The NZ guys told me he has done oil change every 5000 km, no bills and mostly drive in town. Since I bought it I changed the oil and filter every 5k. The air filter every 10k. Cambelt done at 112k, and I will replace it tomorrow (190k), seems really easy compare to French cars. The belt look in good shape except some wear in the middle but its been a long time since the last change and I kind of like to know that all the job to the car has been done properly so I will do it. The ATF has been changed 2 months ago, was dirty but not to much, the shifting is smoother but still not in 2/3. What else ? Not a single leak on the engine, the bottom look mint, in the 5k never had to add oil to stay between the min and max, its not moving, still don't inderstand guys telling it consume oil I always let the engine cool down before shut down, used to Diesel turbo. The car is lowered with some aftermarket adjustable suspension, the exhaust is also modified, don't know about the down pipe. Factory air box, have no idea about spark change, should I do it ? No ECU code, completely blank. The car is still fun to drive and I used it every day to go to work (75km) Any idea ? Thanks in advance for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Mac Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Nice vehicle choice. Jump on Clubsub.org.nz and see if someone local can do some logging for you with a Tactrix cable. Might be able to pinpoint any problems. Spark plugs are always good to do on a new vehicle so that you have a definite record of when they were changed. 2000 Legacy B4 RSK - SOLD 2006 Legacy BP5 GT Spec B wagon - Garage Thread 2011 VW T5 van 2.0L of turbo diesel awesomeness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SesnaBlue Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Hi everyone. Sorry for my bad english I wish my first post would have been to help someone instead of asking for help, even if I learned a lot since last year I am still a beginner with subi. I am living in Auckland since May 2018 from France and I bought a subi few weeks later my arrival. Its a JDM SW Legacy GT '07 5EAT with an EJ20X engine. I am pretty new to Subaru, first car of the brand, finally Really good car and so fun to drive with the stock 265hp. I have been driving it for 20 000km and since 3 months I have few problems : - I have the feeling that its not that punchy as before and start to make more noise when the turbo strigger (I would says since I wash the engine with dish liquid and water, but I could be wrong), like air leak noise, from the engine, but its really hard to says where it come from and if it's normal after all, but I would says that noise wasn't here when I bought it. I am planning on doing a Boost leak, but seems a little bit tricky on those models (lots of pipe to block), so I bought a Boost gauge to see while driving how it goes, unfortunately its not arrived yet, will keep you updated. How many PSI am I suppose to have ? - I also have a weird smell when driving in sport mode at hight RPM, impossible for me to identify. Didn't seems to smell like burned oil. It's more look like ATF burned but I don't see how it's possible. Its alway on hight acceleration around 4500-6000rpm and can smell it only 2-3s after for maybe 30s. No smoke. - Finally the transmission is acting weirdly, like when on 3rd gear and manual mode on a small climb, at half pedal throttle I am at 2500rpm and If I push more the pedal the engine climb to 3400rpm in half a second without a big speed increase and then they both increase together like it should do, its like it just changed gear but its not. Could be the torque converter doing his job, don't know. First AT, but its funny. This problem is there since I bought it. And I am not talking about the hard shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear but I am used to it now and lots of subi has this issues without really been an issues for the transmission on the long time. Car history : Owned by a guy in Japan for 7 years and been imported to NZ in 2014. The NZ guys told me he has done oil change every 5000 km, no bills and mostly drive in town. Since I bought it I changed the oil and filter every 5k. The air filter every 10k. Cambelt done at 112k, and I will replace it tomorrow (190k), seems really easy compare to French cars. The belt look in good shape except some wear in the middle but its been a long time since the last change and I kind of like to know that all the job to the car has been done properly so I will do it. The ATF has been changed 2 months ago, was dirty but not to much, the shifting is smoother but still not in 2/3. What else ? Not a single leak on the engine, the bottom look mint, in the 5k never had to add oil to stay between the min and max, its not moving, still don't inderstand guys telling it consume oil I always let the engine cool down before shut down, used to Diesel turbo. The car is lowered with some aftermarket adjustable suspension, the exhaust is also modified, don't know about the down pipe. Factory air box, have no idea about spark change, should I do it ? No ECU code, completely blank. The car is still fun to drive and I used it every day to go to work (75km) Any idea ? Thanks in advance for the help. Long shot here. My 5EAT acted very similar to what you are describing. I had a very large exhaust leak right behind the turbo on the down pipe. I replaced the entire exhaust from the turbo back. It now runs much better and for whatever reason the transmission shifts much better and downshifts when it should now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SesnaBlue Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Long shot here. My 5EAT acted very similar to what you are describing. I had a very large exhaust leak right behind the turbo on the down pipe. I replaced the entire exhaust from the turbo back. It now runs much better and for whatever reason the transmission shifts much better and downshifts when it should now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk And yes I would do plugs either way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7subaru4 Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Will have a look Andy, cheers. And the spark plug are ordered. I spend the day yesterday to do the timing belt, easy job but not really when 3 nuts of the cam cover turn with the screws... had to disk the head. The old belt had touch the anti tooth slip. And what a surprise when my old water pump had 2 hoses fitting and my new from my kit 3... spend 3 hours to find a way to block that 3rd fitting (epoxy + bolt and washer, hope it will last). I also had a tooth difference on the right side, but even with the new belt one the double mark are never perfectly aligned, always half tooth difference. The tensiometer was ok. Today went for a drive and after 15km I notice the temp gauge was higher than normal, just stop and had a look at the engine.........wtf ??? the upper hose was off from the radiator and the 8L went everywhere in the engine bay. Hopefully I notice it and didn't drive more than 5km without coolant. How is that possible ? I did 25km yesterday after the belt change and everything was mint. Can we over fill the coolant and then it increase the pressure ? I put some stronger collars tonight, seems to work. I need to check without the turbo cover for any leak, probably tomorrow SesnaBlue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Only reason I know for increased pressure in the coolant system is a headgasket leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7subaru4 Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Only reason I know for increased pressure in the coolant system is a headgasket leak. what about a bad coolant drain yesterday and the air inside get eated up and increased the pressure ? Anyway have drive 30km since and the pipe is still on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Maybe possible if the radiator cap is faulty. Otherwise it would regulate the pressure before it blew a hose I'd imagine. For your gearbox concern. Sounds like it is slipping. Would be worth getting a tune so that a higher requested torque and better tuned calculated toque can keep the line pressure where it should be to stop slipping of the clutch packs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7subaru4 Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Maybe possible if the radiator cap is faulty. Otherwise it would regulate the pressure before it blew a hose I'd imagine. For your gearbox concern. Sounds like it is slipping. Would be worth getting a tune so that a higher requested torque and better tuned calculated toque can keep the line pressure where it should be to stop slipping of the clutch packs. I think the clamp was lose, I should replace it by a screwed one. What I did after all ^^ and its all good now after 75km. For the trainy not shure about slipping, how could it just sleep between 40 to 45% of torque and then not anymore ? I know what a manual clutch sliping look like and its way different. I am just having an increase of engine rmp, just like the torque converter was taking time to transfer to the trainy. funny as... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 I am just having an increase of engine rmp, just like the torque converter was taking time to transfer to the trainy. funny as... Well I can't say it's your issue for sure, but have a read of these: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=21405 https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=9358 If you're speaking to a tuner I'd ask questions on what their strategy is on tuning requested and calculated torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7subaru4 Posted March 13, 2019 Author Share Posted March 13, 2019 Well I can't say it's your issue for sure, but have a read of these: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=21405 https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=9358 If you're speaking to a tuner I'd ask questions on what their strategy is on tuning requested and calculated torque. Interresting !! its probably similar. I got my boost gauge, I am at -15psi on iddle with a cold start, -20 on a hot engine and getting 12 psi max, stabilize at 11psi during WOT. Is that alright ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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