Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

5EAT.. Harsh Shifting=Normal?


Recommended Posts

I’ve been reading up on it that 5EAT’s are just known to be hard shifting transmissions.. but is that really true? Between 3k and 4K shifting, there’s no problem with the transmission. However, anything above it makes it feel like the engine or transmission is going to fall out; it feels hesitant.

 

I’m also not sure if maybe just a tune would fix it or if I need a rebuild/newer transmission.

I know there’s a lot on this transmission but I just want more clarification.

 

Thanks all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mileage/mods/history?

 

Likely if it’s modded and doesn’t have a shift kit, the clutch packs are approaching end of life. Also general health of the motor can effect how the transmission shifts due to the way it calculated input torque, so checking for leaks and cleaning your MAF can help in some cases.

 

Edit: looking at your post history you were at some point looking at an EJ20 swap. If you did that without swapping to the JDM ECU shifts will be angry.

Edited by utc_pyro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely download freessm and get yourself a $6 OBDII cable off fleabay and clear the memory/reset the trans control module.

 

Also, if you haven't, get the fluid dumped and filled a cple times within a week or so. Getting fresh fluid will not harm, only help even a dying transmission.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mileage/mods/history?

 

Likely if it’s modded and doesn’t have a shift kit, the clutch packs are approaching end of life. Also general health of the motor can effect how the transmission shifts due to the way it calculated input torque, so checking for leaks and cleaning your MAF can help in some cases.

 

Edit: looking at your post history you were at some point looking at an EJ20 swap. If you did that without swapping to the JDM ECU shifts will be angry.

 

Mods- just exhaust. Engine is bone stock. I do however have the ej20x head and block with USDM ECU. As for the MAF is it only couple months old. Maybe tune can help? Thanks for the response. :)

 

Edit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Legacy-BP5-Outback-2-0L-DOHC-Turbo-Automatic-ECU-8B-22611AH124-JDM-EJ20X/163222848844?hash=item2600d7054c:g:I-0AAOSwO41aR~oo:rk:1:pf:0

~178k miles on car and transmission.

 

Would that be the JDM ECU? Is it a plug in play (if anyone knows)?

 

Absolutely download freessm and get yourself a $6 OBDII cable off fleabay and clear the memory/reset the trans control module.

 

Also, if you haven't, get the fluid dumped and filled a cple times within a week or so. Getting fresh fluid will not harm, only help even a dying transmission.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

Sounds great, thanks. I will do that. :)

 

replace your tranny fluid and filter.

 

i use oem trans fluid HP9 for 5eat.

 

Thanks for the recommendation, I will use that fluid when I get it changed. :)

Edited by Carmania24
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep that ej20 is your problem. The USDM tune is VERY different.

 

You’ll need to add some wires for exhaust side avcs, but it’s FAIRLY plug and play beyond that. eBay is your friend.

 

I see, what if I just get the USDM tuned without the JDM ECU? And if I did get the JDM ECU, do I have do the exhaust side ACVS?

 

And you mention fairly, what wires (for example) would I have to fix/edit?

 

Thanks for your help @utc_pyro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can copy all the tables over from the JDM ECU to USDM ECU if you protune it at the same time to handle the exhaust avcs not being hooked up. They’ll need to do this opensource though as the tables that will fix the shift issues aren’t avalible on an access point. Have your tuner PM me on here and I can give them all the stuff they need if you go down this route.

 

If you go the JDM ECU route, you will need to extend ~5 wires from the ECU to each head. I think you can rob the pins from the TGV’s on the ECU side, and just add the appropriate connectors to the engine harness. If your JDM motor came with a harness you can rob the plugs from that.

Edited by utc_pyro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can copy all the tables over from the JDM ECU to USDM ECU if you protune it at the same time to handle the exhaust avcs not being hooked up. They’ll need to do this opensource though as the tables that will fix the shift issues aren’t avalible on an access point. Have your tuner PM me on here and I can give them all the stuff they need if you go down this route.

 

If you go the JDM ECU route, you will need to extend ~5 wires from the ECU to each head. I think you can rob the pins from the TGV’s on the ECU side, and just add the appropriate connectors to the engine harness. If your JDM motor came with a harness you can rob the plugs from that.

 

Gotcha @utc_pyro. I just want to fix some issues and tune it for better performance. I think I will skip the JDM ECU.

 

As for the tuner I was thinking to go with ANTSPEC in California, aka COBB Tuning. They are in Fountain Valley.

 

Thanks again for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the one I bought.....if you are looking for made in the USA you may have to search far and wide. This one shipped very fast from Delaware.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-EOBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-BMW-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS/253968154544?epid=19004217672&hash=item3b21ae7fb0:g:fiMAAOSwVXRb4aNb:rk:6:pf:0

Edited by whitexc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gotcha @utc_pyro. I just want to fix some issues and tune it for better performance. I think I will skip the JDM ECU.

 

As for the tuner I was thinking to go with ANTSPEC in California, aka COBB Tuning. They are in Fountain Valley.

 

Thanks again for your help!

 

Cobb cant do everything unfortunately. They SAY they can, but their tools don't support some of the extended tables that are needed with dealing with transmissions. You should find an independent tuner that will support opensource (ECUFlash/RomRaider) tuning so you have access to the calculated torque table.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can copy all the tables over from the JDM ECU to USDM ECU if you protune it at the same time to handle the exhaust avcs not being hooked up. They’ll need to do this opensource though as the tables that will fix the shift issues aren’t avalible on an access point. Have your tuner PM me on here and I can give them all the stuff they need if you go down this route.

 

If you go the JDM ECU route, you will need to extend ~5 wires from the ECU to each head. I think you can rob the pins from the TGV’s on the ECU side, and just add the appropriate connectors to the engine harness. If your JDM motor came with a harness you can rob the plugs from that.

 

The table sizes between a JDM ECU and the US ECU are different. It’s going to take more than a copy and paste.

 

As I’ve said in other threads, it’s going to take some work no matter what ECU is used, the EJ20x/y is not a plug and play engine swap with any calibration readily available. It WILL knock on US pump premium fuel and it needs to be addressed. It would not surprise me to find out that it is knocking bad enough that IAM is very low and running on the part protection tables.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The table sizes between a JDM ECU and the US ECU are different. It’s going to take more than a copy and paste.

 

As I’ve said in other threads, it’s going to take some work no matter what ECU is used, the EJ20x/y is not a plug and play engine swap with any calibration readily available. It WILL knock on US pump premium fuel and it needs to be addressed. It would not surprise me to find out that it is knocking bad enough that IAM is very low and running on the part protection tables.

 

Hence why I said protune ;)

 

You can rescale tables with the airboy spreadsheet fairly easly, but the stock ones are also expecting working exhaust avcs. Hence the whole thing will need to be redone anyway if OP doesnt hook that up and swap to a JDM ECU. Though OP also appears to be in Cali, so that probably wouldn't fly anyway due to emissions. Granted the engine swap should fly but he probably can get away to with it if the tech is lazy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the one I bought.....if you are looking for made in the USA you may have to search far and wide. This one shipped very fast from Delaware.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-EOBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-BMW-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS/253968154544?epid=19004217672&hash=item3b21ae7fb0:g:fiMAAOSwVXRb4aNb:rk:6:pf:0

 

I will buy that one! I did see it before but it said BMW and Audi so I assumed it would not work with my car..but I will buy it. BTW what software do you use to for this? So I can reset the TCU and make it learn.

Thank you!

 

Cobb cant do everything unfortunately. They SAY they can, but their tools don't support some of the extended tables that are needed with dealing with transmissions. You should find an independent tuner that will support opensource (ECUFlash/RomRaider) tuning so you have access to the calculated torque table.

 

Welp that is the news I did not want to hear..does anyone know someone here who does opensource in southern cali?

 

Thanks for your response though, much appreciated.

 

The table sizes between a JDM ECU and the US ECU are different. It’s going to take more than a copy and paste.

 

As I’ve said in other threads, it’s going to take some work no matter what ECU is used, the EJ20x/y is not a plug and play engine swap with any calibration readily available. It WILL knock on US pump premium fuel and it needs to be addressed. It would not surprise me to find out that it is knocking bad enough that IAM is very low and running on the part protection tables.

 

I def do not want it to get worse..thanks for the response.

 

Hence why I said protune ;)

 

You can rescale tables with the airboy spreadsheet fairly easly, but the stock ones are also expecting working exhaust avcs. Hence the whole thing will need to be redone anyway if OP doesnt hook that up and swap to a JDM ECU. Though OP also appears to be in Cali, so that probably wouldn't fly anyway due to emissions. Granted the engine swap should fly but he probably can get away to with it if the tech is lazy.

 

I do not want to cheap out but I am also tight on money. If I can tune the USDM ECU to work properly with this engine then I am willing to do so.

 

Thanks for the response!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely download freessm and get yourself a $6 OBDII cable off fleabay and clear the memory/reset the trans control module.

 

Also, if you haven't, get the fluid dumped and filled a cple times within a week or so. Getting fresh fluid will not harm, only help even a dying transmission.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

@whitexc I follow this guide correct? The cable comes in today

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-tcu-reset-w-freessm-202482.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, worked for me, although mine still gets funky once in a while.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

@whitexc Just did it. Just to make sure

 

1) turn to “on” position

2) plug in OBD2 to car and laptop

3) click transmission

4) clear memory 2

5) when prompted turn off and then “on”

6) wait till finished

7) turn car fully on

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That I can't tell you. It sounds as though you did the reset as needed.

 

Maybe other will chime in. I just cleared mine again the other day. My car is odd....it shifts absolutely perfect cold. As it warms up and especially in stop and go traffic...it starts the slide bang 2-3 shift. All other shifts are fine. I am doing more manual mode shifting this time around to see if it learns differently. I am also hoping to do my new turbo inlet and check vacuum lines, new pcv and bullet proof my intercooler this weekend. Have to see how work goes.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That I can't tell you. It sounds as though you did the reset as needed.

 

Maybe other will chime in. I just cleared mine again the other day. My car is odd....it shifts absolutely perfect cold. As it warms up and especially in stop and go traffic...it starts the slide bang 2-3 shift. All other shifts are fine. I am doing more manual mode shifting this time around to see if it learns differently. I am also hoping to do my new turbo inlet and check vacuum lines, new pcv and bullet proof my intercooler this weekend. Have to see how work goes.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

Mine does the same thing, 1-2 fine, 2-3 bang shift like the car is about to separate from the engine and transmission. I know this is possibly not the answer but could a boost like cause this? Also could motor mounts cause this? Since I need to get my valve cover done asap, I might have the shop do another inspection on hoses, lines, etc.

 

Thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use