Carmania24 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 I’ve been reading up on it that 5EAT’s are just known to be hard shifting transmissions.. but is that really true? Between 3k and 4K shifting, there’s no problem with the transmission. However, anything above it makes it feel like the engine or transmission is going to fall out; it feels hesitant. I’m also not sure if maybe just a tune would fix it or if I need a rebuild/newer transmission. I know there’s a lot on this transmission but I just want more clarification. Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Mileage/mods/history? Likely if it’s modded and doesn’t have a shift kit, the clutch packs are approaching end of life. Also general health of the motor can effect how the transmission shifts due to the way it calculated input torque, so checking for leaks and cleaning your MAF can help in some cases. Edit: looking at your post history you were at some point looking at an EJ20 swap. If you did that without swapping to the JDM ECU shifts will be angry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Absolutely download freessm and get yourself a $6 OBDII cable off fleabay and clear the memory/reset the trans control module. Also, if you haven't, get the fluid dumped and filled a cple times within a week or so. Getting fresh fluid will not harm, only help even a dying transmission. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 replace your tranny fluid and filter. i use oem trans fluid HP9 for 5eat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Mileage/mods/history? Likely if it’s modded and doesn’t have a shift kit, the clutch packs are approaching end of life. Also general health of the motor can effect how the transmission shifts due to the way it calculated input torque, so checking for leaks and cleaning your MAF can help in some cases. Edit: looking at your post history you were at some point looking at an EJ20 swap. If you did that without swapping to the JDM ECU shifts will be angry. Mods- just exhaust. Engine is bone stock. I do however have the ej20x head and block with USDM ECU. As for the MAF is it only couple months old. Maybe tune can help? Thanks for the response. Edit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Legacy-BP5-Outback-2-0L-DOHC-Turbo-Automatic-ECU-8B-22611AH124-JDM-EJ20X/163222848844?hash=item2600d7054c:g:I-0AAOSwO41aR~oo:rk:1:pf:0 ~178k miles on car and transmission. Would that be the JDM ECU? Is it a plug in play (if anyone knows)? Absolutely download freessm and get yourself a $6 OBDII cable off fleabay and clear the memory/reset the trans control module. Also, if you haven't, get the fluid dumped and filled a cple times within a week or so. Getting fresh fluid will not harm, only help even a dying transmission. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Sounds great, thanks. I will do that. replace your tranny fluid and filter. i use oem trans fluid HP9 for 5eat. Thanks for the recommendation, I will use that fluid when I get it changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Yep that ej20 is your problem. The USDM tune is VERY different. You’ll need to add some wires for exhaust side avcs, but it’s FAIRLY plug and play beyond that. eBay is your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Yep that ej20 is your problem. The USDM tune is VERY different. You’ll need to add some wires for exhaust side avcs, but it’s FAIRLY plug and play beyond that. eBay is your friend. I see, what if I just get the USDM tuned without the JDM ECU? And if I did get the JDM ECU, do I have do the exhaust side ACVS? And you mention fairly, what wires (for example) would I have to fix/edit? Thanks for your help @utc_pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 You can copy all the tables over from the JDM ECU to USDM ECU if you protune it at the same time to handle the exhaust avcs not being hooked up. They’ll need to do this opensource though as the tables that will fix the shift issues aren’t avalible on an access point. Have your tuner PM me on here and I can give them all the stuff they need if you go down this route. If you go the JDM ECU route, you will need to extend ~5 wires from the ECU to each head. I think you can rob the pins from the TGV’s on the ECU side, and just add the appropriate connectors to the engine harness. If your JDM motor came with a harness you can rob the plugs from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 You can copy all the tables over from the JDM ECU to USDM ECU if you protune it at the same time to handle the exhaust avcs not being hooked up. They’ll need to do this opensource though as the tables that will fix the shift issues aren’t avalible on an access point. Have your tuner PM me on here and I can give them all the stuff they need if you go down this route. If you go the JDM ECU route, you will need to extend ~5 wires from the ECU to each head. I think you can rob the pins from the TGV’s on the ECU side, and just add the appropriate connectors to the engine harness. If your JDM motor came with a harness you can rob the plugs from that. Gotcha @utc_pyro. I just want to fix some issues and tune it for better performance. I think I will skip the JDM ECU. As for the tuner I was thinking to go with ANTSPEC in California, aka COBB Tuning. They are in Fountain Valley. Thanks again for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 sorry for double post-- can someone recommend a good OBD2 to USB cable?..that is not coming from china. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 This is the one I bought.....if you are looking for made in the USA you may have to search far and wide. This one shipped very fast from Delaware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-EOBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-BMW-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS/253968154544?epid=19004217672&hash=item3b21ae7fb0:g:fiMAAOSwVXRb4aNb:rk:6:pf:0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Gotcha @utc_pyro. I just want to fix some issues and tune it for better performance. I think I will skip the JDM ECU. As for the tuner I was thinking to go with ANTSPEC in California, aka COBB Tuning. They are in Fountain Valley. Thanks again for your help! Cobb cant do everything unfortunately. They SAY they can, but their tools don't support some of the extended tables that are needed with dealing with transmissions. You should find an independent tuner that will support opensource (ECUFlash/RomRaider) tuning so you have access to the calculated torque table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mondtster Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 You can copy all the tables over from the JDM ECU to USDM ECU if you protune it at the same time to handle the exhaust avcs not being hooked up. They’ll need to do this opensource though as the tables that will fix the shift issues aren’t avalible on an access point. Have your tuner PM me on here and I can give them all the stuff they need if you go down this route. If you go the JDM ECU route, you will need to extend ~5 wires from the ECU to each head. I think you can rob the pins from the TGV’s on the ECU side, and just add the appropriate connectors to the engine harness. If your JDM motor came with a harness you can rob the plugs from that. The table sizes between a JDM ECU and the US ECU are different. It’s going to take more than a copy and paste. As I’ve said in other threads, it’s going to take some work no matter what ECU is used, the EJ20x/y is not a plug and play engine swap with any calibration readily available. It WILL knock on US pump premium fuel and it needs to be addressed. It would not surprise me to find out that it is knocking bad enough that IAM is very low and running on the part protection tables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 The table sizes between a JDM ECU and the US ECU are different. It’s going to take more than a copy and paste. As I’ve said in other threads, it’s going to take some work no matter what ECU is used, the EJ20x/y is not a plug and play engine swap with any calibration readily available. It WILL knock on US pump premium fuel and it needs to be addressed. It would not surprise me to find out that it is knocking bad enough that IAM is very low and running on the part protection tables. Hence why I said protune You can rescale tables with the airboy spreadsheet fairly easly, but the stock ones are also expecting working exhaust avcs. Hence the whole thing will need to be redone anyway if OP doesnt hook that up and swap to a JDM ECU. Though OP also appears to be in Cali, so that probably wouldn't fly anyway due to emissions. Granted the engine swap should fly but he probably can get away to with it if the tech is lazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 This is the one I bought.....if you are looking for made in the USA you may have to search far and wide. This one shipped very fast from Delaware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-EOBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-BMW-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS/253968154544?epid=19004217672&hash=item3b21ae7fb0:g:fiMAAOSwVXRb4aNb:rk:6:pf:0 I will buy that one! I did see it before but it said BMW and Audi so I assumed it would not work with my car..but I will buy it. BTW what software do you use to for this? So I can reset the TCU and make it learn. Thank you! Cobb cant do everything unfortunately. They SAY they can, but their tools don't support some of the extended tables that are needed with dealing with transmissions. You should find an independent tuner that will support opensource (ECUFlash/RomRaider) tuning so you have access to the calculated torque table. Welp that is the news I did not want to hear..does anyone know someone here who does opensource in southern cali? Thanks for your response though, much appreciated. The table sizes between a JDM ECU and the US ECU are different. It’s going to take more than a copy and paste. As I’ve said in other threads, it’s going to take some work no matter what ECU is used, the EJ20x/y is not a plug and play engine swap with any calibration readily available. It WILL knock on US pump premium fuel and it needs to be addressed. It would not surprise me to find out that it is knocking bad enough that IAM is very low and running on the part protection tables. I def do not want it to get worse..thanks for the response. Hence why I said protune You can rescale tables with the airboy spreadsheet fairly easly, but the stock ones are also expecting working exhaust avcs. Hence the whole thing will need to be redone anyway if OP doesnt hook that up and swap to a JDM ECU. Though OP also appears to be in Cali, so that probably wouldn't fly anyway due to emissions. Granted the engine swap should fly but he probably can get away to with it if the tech is lazy. I do not want to cheap out but I am also tight on money. If I can tune the USDM ECU to work properly with this engine then I am willing to do so. Thanks for the response! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Download FreeSSM.....very easy to use. Search for threads on how to use and what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Download FreeSSM.....very easy to use. Search for threads on how to use and what to do. Sounds great I bought the cable you suggested. Thanks a bunch for your help. I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 Absolutely download freessm and get yourself a $6 OBDII cable off fleabay and clear the memory/reset the trans control module. Also, if you haven't, get the fluid dumped and filled a cple times within a week or so. Getting fresh fluid will not harm, only help even a dying transmission. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk @whitexc I follow this guide correct? The cable comes in today https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-tcu-reset-w-freessm-202482.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Yup, worked for me, although mine still gets funky once in a while. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Yup, worked for me, although mine still gets funky once in a while. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk @whitexc Just did it. Just to make sure 1) turn to “on” position 2) plug in OBD2 to car and laptop 3) click transmission 4) clear memory 2 5) when prompted turn off and then “on” 6) wait till finished 7) turn car fully on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Bump--I looked for transmission codes and found none through FREESSM. I did the steps above, transmission seems to be acting the same. What is the difference between memory 1 and memory 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 That I can't tell you. It sounds as though you did the reset as needed. Maybe other will chime in. I just cleared mine again the other day. My car is odd....it shifts absolutely perfect cold. As it warms up and especially in stop and go traffic...it starts the slide bang 2-3 shift. All other shifts are fine. I am doing more manual mode shifting this time around to see if it learns differently. I am also hoping to do my new turbo inlet and check vacuum lines, new pcv and bullet proof my intercooler this weekend. Have to see how work goes. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 That I can't tell you. It sounds as though you did the reset as needed. Maybe other will chime in. I just cleared mine again the other day. My car is odd....it shifts absolutely perfect cold. As it warms up and especially in stop and go traffic...it starts the slide bang 2-3 shift. All other shifts are fine. I am doing more manual mode shifting this time around to see if it learns differently. I am also hoping to do my new turbo inlet and check vacuum lines, new pcv and bullet proof my intercooler this weekend. Have to see how work goes. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Mine does the same thing, 1-2 fine, 2-3 bang shift like the car is about to separate from the engine and transmission. I know this is possibly not the answer but could a boost like cause this? Also could motor mounts cause this? Since I need to get my valve cover done asap, I might have the shop do another inspection on hoses, lines, etc. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Mind will do that every once in a while. I figured it was time to flush the fluid. Maybe it's not letting the valvebody do its job right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 @moral hazard Thanks, so I guess since we all have this issue, I’m assuming it’s normal for 2-3 to bang shift. I will still get my fluid changed anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.