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5EAT Stalling, Yet again


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There are plenty of inexpensive tools out there to look at live data. The torque app and a Bluetooth adapter would probably one of the cheapest options. There are better options however.

 

The tool is only as good as the operator though. Whatever you get, you’re going to need to take the time to familiarize yourself with how to use it and know what you should be seeing.

 

As far as the oil screen behind the timing cover goes, they can be removed without any major disassembly.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

 

I see ill look into it. My friend has a data logger I’ll see how much that was.

From this guide it looks a little to technical for me. I can take off the timing cover without issue.

Thank you for your response.

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Not oem. Though I still have the old OEM one. I will swap it clear the code and see if that helps. Thanks.

 

Old valve could be bad, new one could be junk or defective. What brand is the new one?

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Old valve could be bad, new one could be junk or defective. What brand is the new one?

 

I honestly do not remember the name. But the old one that I still have has not thrown a code..so maybe new one is defective. BUT if it the new is indeed defective..wouldn't the CEL be on all the time? In the sense, it does go off and on randomly. Just my thought...thanks

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BUT if it the new is indeed defective..wouldn't the CEL be on all the time? In the sense, it does go off and on randomly. Just my thought...thanks

 

No not necessarily. I looked up in my 2012's service manual for P0021

 

The code is set when with two consecutive driving cycle with fault occurs. Something could be borderline that isn't causing the fault every time you drive. I would look your FSM and follow the diagnostics for that code.

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I'm too lazy to go back and look through your old post, but I think I remember some details now.

 

I'm starting to think it's unlikely there's a problem with the banjo bolt filter behind the timing belt cover.

 

From what I've read on here, most of the time when people replace their oil control valves, it's because they get a p0011 or a p0021.

 

I think you may have replaced your oem driver side oil control valve with an aftermarket oil control valve when you didn't have a p0021, in an attempt to fix the problem with your car sometimes stalling when you come to a stop.

 

After installing the aftermarket ocv, you now get a p0021 that comes and goes.

 

I may be mistaken, but if all of that is true, I think the aftermarket ocv is junk, oem ocv is fine, and there is no banjo bolt filter clog.

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No not necessarily. I looked up in my 2012's service manual for P0021

 

The code is set when with two consecutive driving cycle with fault occurs. Something could be borderline that isn't causing the fault every time you drive. I would look your FSM and follow the diagnostics for that code.

 

Sorry what does FSM mean?.. thanks :)

I'm too lazy to go back and look through your old post, but I think I remember some details now.

 

I'm starting to think it's unlikely there's a problem with the banjo bolt filter behind the timing belt cover.

 

From what I've read on here, most of the time when people replace their oil control valves, it's because they get a p0011 or a p0021.

 

I think you may have replaced your oem driver side oil control valve with an aftermarket oil control valve when you didn't have a p0021, in an attempt to fix the problem with your car sometimes stalling when you come to a stop.

 

After installing the aftermarket ocv, you now get a p0021 that comes and goes.

 

I may be mistaken, but if all of that is true, I think the aftermarket ocv is junk, oem ocv is fine, and there is no banjo bolt filter clog.

 

I think you may be right.. I still have yet to swap, but fair warning it is leaking from that bolt I do see oil build up. Ima gonna take out remove filter do oil change oil and swap the OCV to oem. And get datalogger.

Thanks for the response.

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