Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

5EAT Stalling, Yet again


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply
I have the same issue with my 5eat, however data logging does show me I have a vac leak somewhere (AF learning #1 is at +15).

 

I knew I should have replaced all my vac lines when I did my headgasket job. I replaced all the coolant lines but thought the vac lines were fine...

 

I will try zip ties everywhere on my next day off.

 

Ahhh. So then I more than likely have a vac leak small to not cause a CEL yet big enough to stall. I am going to get an alignment tomorrow I will ask them to check out the hoses and let me know if they see anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it might have been relative that said valve cover gasket. My .02 is that if it was recently replaced, maybe they didn't use liquid gasket in certain areas as instructed by the FSM. I don't really have much to add unfortunately, I'm not sure what could be above that location on the turbo models, valve cover gasket does seem possible for that area, but I'm not positive. Here's the picture right side up as well for others to maybe visualize better.

IMG_0875.thumb.jpg.bca8fef1d01ee8f64e6220856e046f92.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it might have been relative that said valve cover gasket. My .02 is that if it was recently replaced, maybe they didn't use liquid gasket in certain areas as instructed by the FSM. I don't really have much to add unfortunately, I'm not sure what could be above that location on the turbo models, valve cover gasket does seem possible for that area, but I'm not positive. Here's the picture right side up as well for others to maybe visualize better.

 

Thanks! The picture on my laptop is right side up but did not upload correctly lol.

That could have very well happened. Let me see what they say tomorrow after my alignment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If he said it's supposed to be unplugged, trust him. I'm reading it's common for that to be left disconnected after doing an ej20x swap.

 

Thanks. Looks like the valve cover is the problem @apexi. Got to get a quote and see how much it will be to replace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The leaking valve cover won't cause stalling because it's not a vac leak.

 

The space under the valve cover does not lead to the combustion chamber.

 

I'd ask the mechanic doing the valve cover job to still look for vac lines too.

 

Edit: I went to take another look at my engine bay today, tried the method of pushing on each vac line to see if it was connected on both ends.

 

Well I found my small vac line on the evap system was not connected at all on one end.

Zip ties are now on both ends of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whoever does work on your car in the future, make sure to let them know you've done an ej20x swap. I know that might seem obvious, but I wanted to mention it anyway. I just checked out of bored curiosity, and it looks like it takes a different valve cover gasket than a regular old LGT. Again that may be obvious to some, but I have no idea what is the same, and what is different between the ej20x and a typical ej255(?) LGT engine.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The leaking valve cover won't cause stalling because it's not a vac leak.

 

The space under the valve cover does not lead to the combustion chamber.

 

I'd ask the mechanic doing the valve cover job to still look for vac lines too.

 

Hey Moral,

 

Sorry for the confusion, I know this would not cause the stall. I meant it might be the cause for the leak, I would atleast like to get 1 of the 2 issues solved.

 

Whoever does work on your car in the future, make sure to let them know you've done an ej20x swap. I know that might seem obvious, but I wanted to mention it anyway. I just checked out of bored curiosity, and it looks like it takes a different valve cover gasket than a regular old LGT. Again that may be obvious to some, but I have no idea what is the same, and what is different between the ej20x and a typical ej255(?) LGT engine.

 

Hey Apexi,

 

I will make sure to do that. The same shop that did my alignment asked me last time why it is disconnected I told them it is a JDM motor and will not allow it to work on the USDM ECU. As for the valve cover gasket being different, I had no knowledge of that, so thanks for the info!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

--UPDATE--

 

The OCV sensor was rusted on the outside, but the inside still looked brand new. So those are good. Also replaced my rear driver hub with a new bearing and OMG the car with the alignment and bearing and bushings, feels brand new. It feels..weird.

 

However--found out my rear main seal, passenger valve cover, and timing cover gaskets are leaking. $1400 to replace just the valve cover and timing cover.. I am assuming it is a b***h to replace the timing cover? I found a mobile mechanic who is willing to do it for $550. If anyone can help me find a guide I would greatly appreciate it (timing cover).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Um... pretty sure there are no “timing cover gaskets”.

Might be a cam seal or something like that, but the timing cover doesn’t hold back any oil or coolant.

 

How fast are you losing oil?

 

My OCVs looked basically brand new at 195k when I replaced them and they were acting up. Not says yours are or aren’t, but I wouldn’t trust a visual inspection to tell me if they are performing within spec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Um... pretty sure there are no “timing cover gaskets”.

Might be a cam seal or something like that, but the timing cover doesn’t hold back any oil or coolant.

 

How fast are you losing oil?

 

My OCVs looked basically brand new at 195k when I replaced them and they were acting up. Not says yours are or aren’t, but I wouldn’t trust a visual inspection to tell me if they are performing within spec.

 

Could be, but leaking from timing cover area.

 

It is dripping, but does not look too bad. Drops are the size of maybe 1-2 inches in diameter. Can not take pics of the floor till the rain clears up. One mechanic said $120 to replace the valve cover. Not too bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$120 to replace the valve cover is great. Major sanity check is needed on this supposed timing cover job. Get someone to show you what leak they're talking about.

Rear main seals almost never leak on these cars. A variety of leaks can end up dripping down to the same area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$120 to replace the valve cover is great. Major sanity check is needed on this supposed timing cover job. Get someone to show you what leak they're talking about.

Rear main seals almost never leak on these cars. A variety of leaks can end up dripping down to the same area.

 

Yes I agree, but mobile mechanic. Don't know if I truly would trust it. Then again theres not a bunch of shops around here that have not screwed me over. Might just tackle it with my buddy.

Ah I see. That is good news, hopefully it is not leaking.

Could just be very bad fluid build up in these areas. I am going to try some oil stop leak for now till I can save up the $120. Also planning to replace the power steering hose from reservoir to pump, it is hard as a rock. So are bunch of other hoses. Will need a day to do all of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the leaks are quite minor they probably aren't doing you much harm if you top up with oil and check the level regularly.

 

Might be worth going a thicker weight oil.

 

I would pull the inspection cover off the timing belt on the ends (I think 3 10mm bolts per side) and check that the belt is in good condition and not contaminated with oil.

 

Otherwise if the leak is bad, this would likely be the cam/crank seals which you should be able to identify when pulling the smaller ends of the timing cover off for the inspection.

 

This video gives you an idea of what I mean (although yours is obviously a bit different given that it's DOHC)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the leaks are quite minor they probably aren't doing you much harm if you top up with oil and check the level regularly.

 

Might be worth going a thicker weight oil.

 

I would pull the inspection cover off the timing belt on the ends (I think 3 10mm bolts per side) and check that the belt is in good condition and not contaminated with oil.

 

Otherwise if the leak is bad, this would likely be the cam/crank seals which you should be able to identify when pulling the smaller ends of the timing cover off for the inspection.

 

This video gives you an idea of what I mean (although yours is obviously a bit different given that it's DOHC)

 

Thanks for the tip. I will check it out soon. I hope it is not the cam/crank seal because that should be ok considering the engine has 55-65K miles. If it is indeed bad, how much does it run to replace it (if anyone knows)?

 

Thanks again. Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was watching this video, wondering if and assuming that removing the cam gears on your ej20x is the same as a regular LGT motor, I hear the bolts can be a nightmare.

 

Then I remembered you're in southern Cali. This guy is in southern cali too, Buena Park. Maybe worth talking to them too.

 

https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

,how much does it run to replace it (if anyone knows)?

 

They cam seals are often replaced during a timing belt job.

So the cost would be similar to that (need to remove the crank pulley, timing belt, cam gears just to have access to the cam seals)

 

Are you due for a timing belt service or has it already been done?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They cam seals are often replaced during a timing belt job.

So the cost would be similar to that (need to remove the crank pulley, timing belt, cam gears just to have access to the cam seals)

 

Are you due for a timing belt service or has it already been done?

 

Previous owner told me it has been done already. Also now I have a P0021 after swapping out the driver side OCV. CEL on and cruise control flashing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you swap out the OCV yourself ? Can you swap it back to see if the CEL goes away?

 

I did do it myself, it was really easy to get to. I did it at my friends home and he still has it, I will be there Friday. I was thinking to swap it out with passenger side and see if I get a P0011. Could just maybe be a faulty sensor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use