Carmania24 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hello all, As most of you know I had this issue before when I put the car in D it would just stall out. Turned out to be a clogged IACV (or whatever it is called on this car, cant think of the name at the moment). They cleaned it, did not have the issue since November. Now the time has come yet again. However this time it is when I coming to a complete stop, it will feel like it is choking and die. Then I will restart the car and it is fine. I will put it into D and it will drive fine. It seems to be only when car is warm and when car is driven hard. When driven hard the car shifts but itll jerk in a way (honestly very hard to describe). I have a feeling that either a) fuel pump is dying and/or b) the part is clogged again. My brain is getting tired of this car. Thanks in advance for help/advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 OCVS or AVCS I believe is what your talking about. They do go bad. Cleaning is a stop gap to replacing them. This is the PN 10921AA020 for my car. Other MY have a anchor bracket possibly but the same part. What year and car are you talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 OCVS or AVCS I believe is what your talking about. They do go bad. Cleaning is a stop gap to replacing them. This is the PN 10921AA020 for my car. Other MY have a anchor bracket possibly but the same part. What year and car are you talking about? Hi! Mine is a 05 LGT. If these do go bad, is there a guide somewhere on how to replace it/clean it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Looking at some of your past issues, with smoking coming from the engine bay and such, I wonder you've got a transmission fluid leak somewhere. Automatic transmission fluid is used for the ps system, so they'll both be red. There are lines that deliver transmission fluid to the radiator, so I wonder if that's why you were getting smoking from the front of the engine. Our cars don't have idle air control valves, looking at your older post it looks like they cleaned your throttle body. It's highly unlikely that it's dirty enough to cause problems again. Looking at the past issues, you had a p0171 for running lean, and a p0304 for a cylinder 4 misfire. I know you said you fixed the torn intake tube with some kind of silicone coupler or something, I still have to wonder if there's an issue with a vacuum leak or something that could cause all kinds of issues. Is your transmission fluid level still good? I read in an older post you were thinking about replacing it, have you replaced your transmission fluid? I know some 5th gen legacies had issues with their cars stalling when coming to a stop, and the torque converter in the transmission was bad and causing the problem. I also have to wonder if there's some kind of pressure issue if you do have a atf leak somewhere, but I know very little about automatic transmissions so that's just me thinking out loud. I also remember reading about low compression in 3 cylinders. I guess I'm just trying to add more information so the smarter guys here that know a lot more than me can maybe give better advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Looking at some of your past issues, with smoking coming from the engine bay and such, I wonder you've got a transmission fluid leak somewhere. Automatic transmission fluid is used for the ps system, so they'll both be red. There are lines that deliver transmission fluid to the radiator, so I wonder if that's why you were getting smoking from the front of the engine. Our cars don't have idle air control valves, looking at your older post it looks like they cleaned your throttle body. It's highly unlikely that it's dirty enough to cause problems again. Looking at the past issues, you had a p0171 for running lean, and a p0304 for a cylinder 4 misfire. I know you said you fixed the torn intake tube with some kind of silicone coupler or something, I still have to wonder if there's an issue with a vacuum leak or something that could cause all kinds of issues. Is your transmission fluid level still good? I read in an older post you were thinking about replacing it, have you replaced your transmission fluid? I know some 5th gen legacies had issues with their cars stalling when coming to a stop, and the torque converter in the transmission was bad and causing the problem. I also have to wonder if there's some kind of pressure issue if you do have a atf leak somewhere, but I know very little about automatic transmissions so that's just me thinking out loud. I also remember reading about low compression in 3 cylinders. I guess I'm just trying to add more information so the smarter guys here that know a lot more than me can maybe give better advice. Thanks Apexi. I got the engine replaced. No CEL, no vacuum leaks causing a CEL (maybe there is a leak though?). I took it back to the shop that did the engine swap as it was under warranty. I let them keep it for a week to check and diagnose properly. There was no leak, it was fluid that was left over when the guy was putting in new fluid for the new engine. There is no more smoke, and no more leaks. Fluid level for transmission still looks good. Will check again tomorrow. It is weird, as it is not constant. It happened last Saturday once, and again today once. Not sure what else could be causing it besides what you and the other member listed above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-avcs-oil-control-valves-ocvs-262119.html?t=262119&highlight=OCV+install Covert Russian to the rescue. The bugger is getting the passenger side past the bracket that supports the coolant tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmaje72 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Do you have any way to datalog? That would go a long way towards troubleshooting this. You will see right away if your AVCS valves are sticking. I have an 06 5eat legacy. My rough running issue at idle was vacuum leaks. I had to replace almost all of the vacuum hoses. Also make sure that your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has not blown off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Do you have any way to datalog? That would go a long way towards troubleshooting this. You will see right away if your AVCS valves are sticking. I have an 06 5eat legacy. My rough running issue at idle was vacuum leaks. I had to replace almost all of the vacuum hoses. Also make sure that your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has not blown off. Hi! I don’t have any way to datalog. It doesn’t run rough or idle rough. Stumped at this point. I’m thinking maybe bad fuel hose? I’ll run some fuel cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Do you have any way to datalog? That would go a long way towards troubleshooting this. You will see right away if your AVCS valves are sticking. I have an 06 5eat legacy. My rough running issue at idle was vacuum leaks. I had to replace almost all of the vacuum hoses. Also make sure that your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has not blown off. Excellent point. Also Tie Wrap all the vac lines. Yes ALL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Excellent point. Also Tie Wrap all the vac lines. Yes ALL. Will do. Thanks guys! I’m going to add some fuel cleaner next time I get gas. Will also check out the regulator line. And clean the OVC’s for the VVT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 26, 2019 Author Share Posted January 26, 2019 Update. Noticed a leak, smoking— not as bad. Looks to be oil. They cleaned the entire bottom of the and now it’s covered again in fluid. Seems that your theory of the OCVS is the is most likely the issue @kzr750r1. Not exactly sure if it is the issue, but maybe bad oil pan gasket. Will have to get diagnostics again. Frustrated and not going back to the shop that did my engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 --Bump-- Maybe, but that sound more like stuck torque converter lockup or a vacuum leak. Covertrussian said this, but I wanted to know would either cause a CEL or no? If my torque converter lockup is messed up does that mean I have to replace my torque convertor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 From what I have read here ocv problems will usually throw a p0021 or p0011 code. One code is for the passenger side oil control valve, the other code is for the driver side oil control valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 In my personal experience they acted up enough to be noticeable before they set codes. I’m it sure what the threshold is for a code, but mine were low and out of alignment compared to the new ones. You can have a vacuum leak that can stall out without really messing up the idle. I would work through that before throwing a couple hundred at OCVs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 Thanks guys. I’m so annoyed. Was hoping $1800 would fix the car, clearly not . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 In most cases it's best to stick your head in there and look around. Stealership couldn't diagnose a WIDE OPEN STUCK Waste gate on my first turbo. Will not go back to them for service. I never received CEL for OCV. Yet new unit's helped a great deal. On my Third set at 216K. But for sure confirm there are no stray hoses or vac ports open as well... Tie Wrap all of them as a little project and you may find one hose suspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 In most cases it's best to stick your head in there and look around. Stealership couldn't diagnose a WIDE OPEN STUCK Waste gate on my first turbo. Will not go back to them for service. I never received CEL for OCV. Yet new unit's helped a great deal. On my Third set at 216K. But for sure confirm there are no stray hoses or vac ports open as well... Tie Wrap all of them as a little project and you may find one hose suspect. Thanks. The dealership I took it to did a proper diagnostic, but I don’t have another $130 to pay lol. Dumb question again, what are the most important vac hoses? Will upload pics soon of the oil leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 All of them are important. Mainly units that have been known to pop off are on the back of the intake and the only real way to get to them is removing the IC. The Blue T. BOV. Boost controller ext. ext. The one on the side for the fuel regulator has been known to be forgotten or slip off. TieWraps are your tool to ensure they don't come off. Plus going through it yourself will ensure to cover all of them. There are line diagrams out here on the site. I have to find them again. You can search around as well. Very handy to have available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 All of them are important. Mainly units that have been known to pop off are on the back of the intake and the only real way to get to them is removing the IC. The Blue T. BOV. Boost controller ext. ext. The one on the side for the fuel regulator has been known to be forgotten or slip off. TieWraps are your tool to ensure they don't come off. Plus going through it yourself will ensure to cover all of them. There are line diagrams out here on the site. I have to find them again. You can search around as well. Very handy to have available. Sounds great. Thanks! I just hope that nothing became undone/damaged when they swapped the engine. And I hope that replacing the OCV will solve the issue. If not atleast it’ll be replaced for peace of mind. Ordered one already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Sounds great. Thanks! I just hope that nothing became undone/damaged when they swapped the engine. And I hope that replacing the OCV will solve the issue. If not atleast it’ll be replaced for peace of mind. Ordered one already. Ummm... You need two. One for each head/cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 Ummm... You need two. One for each head/cam. I know lol, but I believe the passenger is the one that is at fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 I remember you saying you had a new engine put in recently, or a different engine put in. If this problem happened with your old engine, and your new engine, I doubt it's either of the ocv's. Don't blindly throw money and parts at the problem.. *The stalling, not the oil leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmania24 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 I remember you saying you had a new engine put in recently, or a different engine put in. If this problem happened with your old engine, and your new engine, I doubt it's either of the ocv's. Don't blindly throw money and parts at the problem.. *The stalling, not the oil leak. Thanks but, they actually only replaced the head and block. Not the sensors or hoses. Either way I should replace the OCV, 176K on the chassis and hoses and sensors. Also--torque convertor lock-up, I am dumb so I have no idea what that means. Can someone chime in and tell me more about that? Thank you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 I have the same issue with my 5eat, however data logging does show me I have a vac leak somewhere (AF learning #1 is at +15). I knew I should have replaced all my vac lines when I did my headgasket job. I replaced all the coolant lines but thought the vac lines were fine... I will try zip ties everywhere on my next day off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 Zip tying won't help. You need to smoke test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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