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CV axle: OEM vs. Napa


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Hey All,

 

I'm gonna swap out a noisy RH front CV axle soon and was wondering how the Napa part compares to the OEM. Searched but couldn't find anything. It's $80 vs approx $350, so I'm leaning towards the Napa unit and can go with OEM down the road if it really sux. But if you guys have had bad experiences, I'll go directly with the OEM. Thanks!

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My local indy Subaru repair place installs the following:

 

-Subaru reman

-FEQ

-NAPA new.

 

Matter of fact, got 2 NAPA axles installed Thursday on the 2006. Replaced failing unknown brand put in by the previous owner. Smooth so far, unlike the CarDone remans I tried once before.

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Raxles. Should run about $200.

Replaced an axle in my 3.0R last spring. Did not want the usual rebuilt axle after looking at some that were absolute garbage.

Top quality components, rebuilt oem cores only. You send your core back in the box that the replacement axle came in, no up-front core charge.

Great people to deal with, the owner even went to the trouble of calling me on a Sunday morning- his day off- to answer a question.

Visit their website.

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I believe there is a link to axles in JmP's sticky up top.

 

Oh yea, see post 174,

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Hey All,

 

Thanks for the responses, will def check out Raxles next time.

 

I went with Napa new and will report back if any vibration issues arise.

 

One of these days, I'll dissect the original and have it rebuilt if feasible.

 

Cheers!

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Pretty much from NAPA all your are going to lose is range of the angle and quality of the rubber boot. The subaru inner CV uses the DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) and a true CV for the outer joint. The Advantage of the DOJ is that it has the ability of working at high angles and still being able to telescope in and out.

 

 

 

After market generally uses a tripod design for the inner CV which works just fine (especially for GT's that don't push the CV working angle to a high degree). Everyone gets uppity about NAPA, Carquest, Cardone, China etc. Pretty much the likely hood of the CV joint being bad is low. If your car is older (which most of ours are) then there could be other factors to vibration. The part that WILL fail quickly on aftermarket CV axles are the boots...reman or new china are all using china boots and china can never make quality boots. They will fail in 2 years or so.

 

 

 

Sum it up, OE is best (obviously) so repack and use OE boots if possible, otherwise for a quicker fix where longevity isn't a problem, then most aftermarket anything will be fine.

Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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I used an EMPI axle on my WRX for about 3 years, still ok. Rebooted the OEM one and saving it for when one of the others fail.

My LGT's front driver inside boot was leaking grease but I put a new clamp on it and it seems to have fixed it for now.

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Pretty much from NAPA all your are going to lose is range of the angle and quality of the rubber boot. The subaru inner CV uses the DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) and a true CV for the outer joint. The Advantage of the DOJ is that it has the ability of working at high angles and still being able to telescope in and out.

 

 

 

After market generally uses a tripod design for the inner CV which works just fine (especially for GT's that don't push the CV working angle to a high degree). Everyone gets uppity about NAPA, Carquest, Cardone, China etc. Pretty much the likely hood of the CV joint being bad is low. If your car is older (which most of ours are) then there could be other factors to vibration. The part that WILL fail quickly on aftermarket CV axles are the boots...reman or new china are all using china boots and china can never make quality boots. They will fail in 2 years or so.

 

 

 

Sum it up, OE is best (obviously) so repack and use OE boots if possible, otherwise for a quicker fix where longevity isn't a problem, then most aftermarket anything will be fine.

 

good information, I had no idea about the joint differences.

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My 2006 Legacy 2.5i , I had aftermarket front hubs and axles in it. You could tell. The front had vibrations at idle. Also because the aftermarkets are sometime shorter in length, I had a axle pop out on a hard turn (Diff Oil came out)

 

After I got the new Subaru Front Hub (both sides) and Subarus Rebuilt front axles installed , the vibrations are all gone. Use only Subaru Parts, or you will regret it. IMO

 

Mike

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