parkmeister Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Hey All, I'm gonna swap out a noisy RH front CV axle soon and was wondering how the Napa part compares to the OEM. Searched but couldn't find anything. It's $80 vs approx $350, so I'm leaning towards the Napa unit and can go with OEM down the road if it really sux. But if you guys have had bad experiences, I'll go directly with the OEM. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 This looks like a pretty solid place for CV axles. I don't have any experience, but from what I can read, they seem to specialize in import vehicles. https://www.raxles.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 If you caught the bad CV soon enough, have that axle rebuilt. It's very hard to beat OEM. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 You need OEM new or rebuilt. Aftermarket often has bad vibration issues for Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 ^^^Good to know. I wasn't aware of the vibration issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDFTW Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 My local indy Subaru repair place installs the following: -Subaru reman -FEQ -NAPA new. Matter of fact, got 2 NAPA axles installed Thursday on the 2006. Replaced failing unknown brand put in by the previous owner. Smooth so far, unlike the CarDone remans I tried once before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tundraman Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Raxles. Should run about $200. Replaced an axle in my 3.0R last spring. Did not want the usual rebuilt axle after looking at some that were absolute garbage. Top quality components, rebuilt oem cores only. You send your core back in the box that the replacement axle came in, no up-front core charge. Great people to deal with, the owner even went to the trouble of calling me on a Sunday morning- his day off- to answer a question. Visit their website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 (edited) I believe there is a link to axles in JmP's sticky up top. Oh yea, see post 174, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html Edited January 21, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkmeister Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Hey All, Thanks for the responses, will def check out Raxles next time. I went with Napa new and will report back if any vibration issues arise. One of these days, I'll dissect the original and have it rebuilt if feasible. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I could be wrong, but I think it's only the AT's that have vibration issues. If you have a MT you should be in the clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 My local indy Subaru repair place installs the following: -Subaru reman -FEQ -NAPA new. . My FEQ top mounts failed at 10,000 miles. Hopefully they make their axles better. https://imgur.com/a/xU6iYMs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Pretty much from NAPA all your are going to lose is range of the angle and quality of the rubber boot. The subaru inner CV uses the DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) and a true CV for the outer joint. The Advantage of the DOJ is that it has the ability of working at high angles and still being able to telescope in and out. After market generally uses a tripod design for the inner CV which works just fine (especially for GT's that don't push the CV working angle to a high degree). Everyone gets uppity about NAPA, Carquest, Cardone, China etc. Pretty much the likely hood of the CV joint being bad is low. If your car is older (which most of ours are) then there could be other factors to vibration. The part that WILL fail quickly on aftermarket CV axles are the boots...reman or new china are all using china boots and china can never make quality boots. They will fail in 2 years or so. Sum it up, OE is best (obviously) so repack and use OE boots if possible, otherwise for a quicker fix where longevity isn't a problem, then most aftermarket anything will be fine. Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 I used raxles in the past for different brand vehicle and was happy with them. They aren't the cheapest option but I would not hesitate to use them again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bemani Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 I used an EMPI axle on my WRX for about 3 years, still ok. Rebooted the OEM one and saving it for when one of the others fail. My LGT's front driver inside boot was leaking grease but I put a new clamp on it and it seems to have fixed it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Raxles are $220 each. I recently got a quote from them. Cheaper than OEM but 2x+ aftermarket shafts. If you plan on keeping it for many years, I'd go with raxles or o.e. reboot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Pretty much from NAPA all your are going to lose is range of the angle and quality of the rubber boot. The subaru inner CV uses the DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) and a true CV for the outer joint. The Advantage of the DOJ is that it has the ability of working at high angles and still being able to telescope in and out. After market generally uses a tripod design for the inner CV which works just fine (especially for GT's that don't push the CV working angle to a high degree). Everyone gets uppity about NAPA, Carquest, Cardone, China etc. Pretty much the likely hood of the CV joint being bad is low. If your car is older (which most of ours are) then there could be other factors to vibration. The part that WILL fail quickly on aftermarket CV axles are the boots...reman or new china are all using china boots and china can never make quality boots. They will fail in 2 years or so. Sum it up, OE is best (obviously) so repack and use OE boots if possible, otherwise for a quicker fix where longevity isn't a problem, then most aftermarket anything will be fine. good information, I had no idea about the joint differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 My 2006 Legacy 2.5i , I had aftermarket front hubs and axles in it. You could tell. The front had vibrations at idle. Also because the aftermarkets are sometime shorter in length, I had a axle pop out on a hard turn (Diff Oil came out) After I got the new Subaru Front Hub (both sides) and Subarus Rebuilt front axles installed , the vibrations are all gone. Use only Subaru Parts, or you will regret it. IMO Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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