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Clutch replacement for Stage 2 2011 GT


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Love his forum and the wealth of knowledge on here. I could read all day all the information I find.

 

The clutch on my 2011 Legacy GT is starting to slip bad (it is much worse now after having the head gasket done by the local dealer :mad:, not sure what they did test driving the work). I have been reading through the forum and am uncertain if I should just go with a new OEM clutch or should I upgrade to something like EXEDY Racing Stage 2 Cerametallic Clutch Kit https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-racing-clutch/exedy-racing-stage-2-cerametallic-clutch-kit/15952/i-34488.aspx a south bend stage 2 clutch or something totally different.

 

At some point I'd like to do some more engine performance work but most likely will stay with the stock turbo for the life of the car. I will probably ask on here the best performance things to do to go beyond a stage 2 set up with stock turbo. But I'm not ready yet after having the head gasket done and now needing a clutch.

 

This my daily driver and plan to keep the car till it stops working.

 

Thanks!

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If you are staying on the stock turbo and are more interested in reliability over track worthiness an exedy stage 1 or stock replacement will suffice. There are many of us still on the stock clutch without slipping and making decent power for a stock turbo car. You might spend some of that money you would have laid out on an aftermarket clutch to upgrade the clutch fork, pivot ball, and throw out bearing. Those parts are seemingly more problematic than the stock clutch is.
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I agree with FLlegacy, the OEM throw out bearing on my 2012 LGT failed and damaged the snout of my transmission case. I decided to have the case replaced instead of going the sleeper route. Very expensive and time consuming.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Thanks for the feedback, just what I was hoping for. After reading everything I could find and the responses here I settled on the 15804 - EXEDY Racing Stage 1 Organic Clutch Kit along with Verus Billet Clutch Fork and Verus Reinforced Clutch Fork Pivot Point. It seems to best fit my car for the foreseeable future.

 

I'd love to upgrade to a bigger turbo, but for now I just can't justify it and having my car off the road that long to do the work. What I've read it doesn't seem as simple as it is with a WRX nor the same options available. I would like to do more for performance in the next year but not sure what to start with just yet. I'll read up and being asking questions on here.

 

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

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The good thing about our turbo setup is it responds pretty well as is and there is still headroom for decent power over the previous setups. You could either invest into a hybrid turbo or have a more common flange welded onto the stock manifold and an aftermarket downpipe.
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I do have an aftermarket down pipe, I went with an invidia down pipe with a high flow cat (I am in NY and they check as part of the inspection if you have a cat) and a Borla exhaust. Over the next year I'd like to look into what I should do next that works with the stock turbo, I'll be searching a lot on here and asking questions. But suggestions are welcome please. What about up pipe? Air intake?

 

Well the new clutch/ throw out bearing, fork etc are done, nice to have a new clutch again, pedal comes up about half way before it stars to grab and then it grabs hard which is a wonderful after driving so long on a clutch that was going. Does feel like the pedal comes up a bit further before engaging than with the OEM clutch.

 

I am noticing a new problem

Just before this in December I had the head gasket replaced, new spark plugs, new radiator, hoses etc. When I dropped the car off at the dealer with Stage II maps I was able to get about 17 PSI boost without even redlining it. Now after all the work, I get just over 13 PSI boost. I re-flashed the map, same. I haven't had a chance to really redline it but what could have changed that I can't get as much boost now? I am running the normal waste gate map, I am considering trying the high wastegate map but I'd like to understand better what could have changed before I do this. The data I did log I didn't get a chance to get over 5000 RPM. I also didn't monitor TD Boost Error which I will now but I attached the little bit of data I was able to record not sure if it means much.

What should my Wastegate duty cycle be?

datalog14.csv

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I do have an aftermarket down pipe, I went with an invidia down pipe with a high flow cat (I am in NY and they check as part of the inspection if you have a cat) and a Borla exhaust. Over the next year I'd like to look into what I should do next that works with the stock turbo, I'll be searching a lot on here and asking questions. But suggestions are welcome please. What about up pipe? Air intake?

 

Well the new clutch/ throw out bearing, fork etc are done, nice to have a new clutch again, pedal comes up about half way before it stars to grab and then it grabs hard which is a wonderful after driving so long on a clutch that was going. Does feel like the pedal comes up a bit further before engaging than with the OEM clutch.

 

I am noticing a new problem

Just before this in December I had the head gasket replaced, new spark plugs, new radiator, hoses etc. When I dropped the car off at the dealer with Stage II maps I was able to get about 17 PSI boost without even redlining it. Now after all the work, I get just over 13 PSI boost. I re-flashed the map, same. I haven't had a chance to really redline it but what could have changed that I can't get as much boost now? I am running the normal waste gate map, I am considering trying the high wastegate map but I'd like to understand better what could have changed before I do this. The data I did log I didn't get a chance to get over 5000 RPM. I also didn't monitor TD Boost Error which I will now but I attached the little bit of data I was able to record not sure if it means much.

What should my Wastegate duty cycle be?

datalog14.csv

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If you were hitting the correct boost before it's not the map. I would check all the intercooler and charge pipe connections to make sure they are tight. You most likely have a boost leak somewhere.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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I was definitely hitting just over 17 PSI before pushing it hard, over 16 PSI easily like accelerating into fast traffic. Just yesterday pushed it as hard as I could and got just over 15 PSI boost. TD boost error when over 14 PSI boost varies between 1.45-2.45.

 

Is there anything I can datalog to try and help point to where the leak is? Makes me thing the Subaru dealing just didn't tighten everything up properly when putting it back together if there is a leak now after they worked on it. Either way I will check all the connections.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

datalog17.csv

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