Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Knock-Knock-Knock; its Christmas


imprezkid

Recommended Posts

08 OBXT; EBCS, inlet, Catless DP & CB, composite TGV deletes, dw300, vf52, perrin AOS.

 

Car was having loads of knock (-11) while cruising and some random misfires. Figured it was a fueling issues; replaced w/ ID1000's. Switched a coil pack & my MAF out. Misfire's are gone, knocking persist & id say worse than ever.

 

Was Opensource before; went V3 when got the ID's, tuner is on round 2 of getting me a good base before dyno & e85. 5eat

 

Considering the problem is still alive & thriving i am coming here for help (I've sent my tuner the log too) to see if anything can point me in the right direction. I believe this is a hardware issue & want to get it figured out before the dyno day.

 

I pulled this log tonight after cruising home from Grandmas and the knock pulling timing so bad i barely had the power to keep going. I pulled over; reset the ECU; and pulled this for the rest of the way.

 

Let me know what you think & thanks for the help in advance. I tried reading up on understanding logs but i just don't have it figured out yet.

 

Merry Christmas!!!

Knock Long 12-24.csv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Intake hasn’t been changed, I was planning on putting a CAI and he said this tume should be good with either for now. He noticed the maf issues as well and asked me to clean it. I cleaned it and nothing changed so i swapped it with the one from my sti yhsf works. Before I swapped the maf it would get to the point I had no throttle.

 

While driving now I can feel an almost constant surging. Maf wiring?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, I had a **** ton of knock on my car once the turbo inlet boot ripped right where it connects to the turbo. Would cause A/F learning to go hay wire as well. Also, take off the intercooler and do a thorough check for any vaccum leaks. Check all the vaccum hoses. For me it went, fix one vaccum leak, *does pull*, new vaccum leak appears. Every single vaccum hose has been zip tied or replaced at this point.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i don't think im going to be that lucky. Did a compression test & cylinder 4 was down to 130psi; leakdown came back at 12% with air leaking into the crankcase. I don't want to say ringland, but id guess its possible. Plug was of course VERY light (lean).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i don't think im going to be that lucky. Did a compression test & cylinder 4 was down to 130psi; leakdown came back at 12% with air leaking into the crankcase. I don't want to say ringland, but id guess its possible. Plug was of course VERY light (lean).
Eh? 130 is great, and 12% is fine. What are the other cylinders?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Other cylinders are 150 across the board; around 6%. If you watch the AF correction you can almost see it try to correct when it hits cylinder number 4. Any other ideas i should try before planning a rebuild? Like i said the plugged appeared as though it was running very lean; i switched it out with no change
Link to comment
Share on other sites

motor is a 257; was fine in my sti making almost 480 wheel (:)), put it in the outback and less than 10k later its broke.

 

Here was my leakdown test; all plugs removed, regulating at 80psi; showing 70psi on the inner gauge. Listened in the exhaust, nothing; listened in the intake, nothing. Removed the oil cap (should have done that sooner i know) and there was clear air moving.

 

I have always been suspect of my AOS setup in this car, but being that the other cylinders were different i couldn't come up with a reason why this would be causing any issues with the test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use