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2015 trunk switch failure


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I can open the trunk with the button on the fob and with the button in the car but the rear outside switch does not function to open the trunk. It does send out the beeps for the unlocking codes for the doors. I called the dealer and made an appointment three weeks out (because they are busy with snow tires). They had the car for a day and then told me that the trunk switch isn't working and that they don't have access to the part locally. I am now waiting. It is a couple months past the end of warranty and Subaru is not interested in extending it. This reminds me of the time I had the fuel door not open and it took four visits. I predict the trunk switch problem is about to proliferate. I will let this forum know if they get the part and what it costs. Edited by crisscross
grammar and memory fixes
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Wait there’s rear outside trunk switch?i have to use key to open trunk outside,beside from key fob or button inside cab.

Can I get this outside trunk switch in replace the manual key trunk lock? Or does it need to be programmed by dealer?

Edited by PATS4LIFE
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Wait there’s rear outside trunk switch?i have to use key to open trunk outside,beside from key fob or button inside cab.

Can I get this outside trunk switch in replace the manual key trunk lock? Or does it need to be programmed by dealer?

If you need to use the key to start the car, then the same key opens the trunk. If you have a push-button start with a fob (and not with a key), only then do you have a "push-button" trunk opener, which is less reliable than a key and more expensive to deal with when it quits.

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which is less reliable than a key and more expensive to deal with when it quits.

 

True, but also quicker and more convenient than a key when it is working fine. It also lets you lock your keys in the car and open it back up by pin code which is a cool feature that I use often. Thanks to Rowlette for posting the part, as for $30 this is something I'd replace in a heartbeat if mine were to go bad and is a cheap fix for an electrical component in a car. :)

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True, but also quicker and more convenient than a key when it is working fine. It also lets you lock your keys in the car and open it back up by pin code which is a cool feature that I use often. Thanks to Rowlette for posting the part, as for $30 this is something I'd replace in a heartbeat if mine were to go bad and is a cheap fix for an electrical component in a car. :)

The PIN opening part still is functional. It is separate from the switch that opens the trunk. I appreciate Rowlette's providing a source for the replacement. I got through to the owner where I bought the car and he said he can help with making this on a warranty item in some way. We'll see. It's still on back order.

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  • 4 weeks later...
True, but also quicker and more convenient than a key when it is working fine. It also lets you lock your keys in the car and open it back up by pin code which is a cool feature that I use often. Thanks to Rowlette for posting the part, as for $30 this is something I'd replace in a heartbeat if mine were to go bad and is a cheap fix for an electrical component in a car. :)

I took the car to the dealer and they ordered the switch (that Rowlette identified). It came in after a month and it didn't fix the problem. It took an hour to get to that point. After another hour they decided that that the problem is a simple antenna that sends the signal from the switch. It is not in stock so the car is spending another overnight at the dealer. The beep signal that uses the same physical switch for the PIN to open the car is working fine.

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I took the car to the dealer and they ordered the switch (that Rowlette identified). It came in after a month and it didn't fix the problem. It took an hour to get to that point. After another hour they decided that that the problem is a simple antenna that sends the signal from the switch. It is not in stock so the car is spending another overnight at the dealer. The beep signal that uses the same physical switch for the PIN to open the car is working fine.

 

oh wow. I thought the switch was hard wired, didn't think there was an antenna.. May be its the one that communicates with the key fob/ proximity sensor antennas.

Are you able to unlock the car with the door handle sensor?

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oh wow. I thought the switch was hard wired, didn't think there was an antenna.. May be its the one that communicates with the key fob/ proximity sensor antennas.

Are you able to unlock the car with the door handle sensor?

There are no other problems with the sensors. I can open the trunk from the inside button and from either fob. This reminds me of the problem with opening the gas tank cover. It took three trips before they got to what was needing repair that seemed to be universal for 2015 Legacys. I wonder how long it will take for other to report the trunk release problem.

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I can open the trunk from the inside button and from either fob.

 

The inside button doesn't rely on the sensors or the fob. It will open the trunk even if you don't have the key. That button is probably hard wired to the trunk latch.

 

Same when you use the button on the fob. It knows you are the one opening it. It's only when you use the button on the trunk that it uses the proximity sensors to check the code from the fob that its the person with the key that's trying to open the trunk.

 

If I remember correctly, there are 2 sensors in the front, two in the middle rear and one in the back. Check it it works if you leave the key fob in the car and then press the button on the trunk.. It's just trial and error at this point to figure out what's going on other than some one at Subaru/ the dealer that knows the inner workings of this.

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The inside button doesn't rely on the sensors or the fob. It will open the trunk even if you don't have the key. That button is probably hard wired to the trunk latch.

 

Same when you use the button on the fob. It knows you are the one opening it. It's only when you use the button on the trunk that it uses the proximity sensors to check the code from the fob that its the person with the key that's trying to open the trunk.

 

If I remember correctly, there are 2 sensors in the front, two in the middle rear and one in the back. Check it it works if you leave the key fob in the car and then press the button on the trunk.. It's just trial and error at this point to figure out what's going on other than some one at Subaru/ the dealer that knows the inner workings of this.

 

The service people weren't as logical in their analysis, nor was I. They thought it was the switch and that didn't do it. After another day waiting for the part, they replaced the "88851AL00A Antenna interior assembly" (https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/ANTENNA-ASSEMBLY-INTERIOR/60018824/88851AL00A.html) and that solved it. The 2015 models continue to provide examples of what can go wrong in the first year of a new design.

Edited by crisscross
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1. The PIN option via the trunk only works if the fob proximity is not detected. This is logical and you can test it.

 

2. The trunk switch works only if the fob proximity is detected.

 

3. Since the switch on the fob and in the car did open the trunk, the trunk switch was working.

 

4. Since the PIN option was operational and the trunk opener was not, this meant that the proximity of the fob was not detected. However, the doors opened with the proximity detector.

 

5. There is an antenna for the proximity detector for the trunk. Since it should have been concluded that the proximity of the fob was not detected at the trunk, because the PIN was working, the only fault could be the antenna.

 

The dealer service took several tries but must have arrived at this conclusion or someone at Subaru central told them. Thanks to all and this analysis could be on a wiki on this site if possible because it will happen to others.

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  • 1 year later...
This time the service department must have found a better tech. They tested the wiring and one of the wires in a harness had not been properly connected into the harness: presumably it had worked its way loose or a mouse ate it. The tech soldered the wire back into the connection in the harness and it works fine. The comment was that this had never happened before. There were no parts required and the previous repair probably just moved the wire without attaching it. The antenna assembly never had a problem. Edited by crisscross
typo
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