Rusty Brake Recall

[jaylew]

So, You know the rusty brake recall for the rear brake line coupler...well I had my car "addressed" when I had the airbag replaced. They just did the wax job (which was applied by some blind mechanic just shooting wherever)

 

 

 

 

So fast forward to today when I am hauling over the car (mostly the rear suspension). I am swapping out the tan interior for black and truck bed lining the under body. So I have the rear subframe out and just dropped the gas tank.

 

 

 

By doing this work I just got a new good look at the brake line coupler. (see picture). Looks kinda messed. I want to replace it but what is the likelihood SOA is willing to just send me new center and rear brake lines for me to install. The car is obviously in no shape to go to a dealership to have the part replaced there and if I am already going to have the interior torn up, that is half the battle.

 

 

Just looking for thoughts, bets, comments.

 

 

 

Thanks

[apexi]

There's a member here named Dishwasher that made a great point that I always forget about, which is that there are two other areas to inspect other than the joint connector. I mean, in your situation there's really no need because that upper right one looks pretty bad.. but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

 

There are random documents floating around online which go over the inspection areas, the link below has part of one.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dealership-denied-rusted-brake-line-repair-recall-smoking-guni-269642.html

 

Here are a couple random pictures from my car that I took a couple months ago, I think these are the other areas that are supposed to be inspected. One of the pictures is a little random, and it's hard to gauge exactly where it is, but I think it's closest to the back seat.

 

 

From what I've read here, once Subaru inspects the area and applies the anti-corrosion wax, that's it. If it wasn't leaking at the time of inspection, they have no obligation to fix it after that. However... there have been cases of people here pushing, and Subaru giving in and still replacing the brake lines years after the inspection was done, and the anti-corrosion wax was applied. So I don't know... I think it's unlikely that they'll give the parts to a diyer. The good news is that the parts aren't too super expensive, but still.. it'd be nice if Subaru did cover that cost.

 

*Actually I'm an idiot. I took the pictures below in September, and I just realized I think the red box and picture #2 are the same thing. There's actually a third area that could fail as well.

Edited December 3, 2018 by apexi
forgot to attach pictures

[JmP6889928]

I know it sucks, but if I were you, I would just replace it myself. I would re-make the lines out of copper-nickel, which is super easy to bend and will never corrode again, no matter where you drive it. It would be a few bucks, but at least you'll know it's done correctly and not letting the monkeys at Subaru touch it.

 

I haven't gone in for my airbag recall because I don't want those morons even touching my car. My brother went in with his OB and they broke his RH kick panel, his console, and the armrest. I told the head BOZO at the dealership that if he wanted to give me the airbag, I would replace it and return the old one, and he said: "No way. How could someone like you be good enough to know how to do that?"

After I calmed down and the murderous adrenaline subsided, I told him it would frosty in hell before they ever touched my car. He couldn't have cared less.

[ehsnils]

How about just buying the needed parts at Autozone or similar if you are going to do it yourself?

 

 

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-line-fitting

 

 

Just remove the bad parts and bring in to a suitable shop and they can probably even bend the pipes for you to the correct shape.

[Max Capacity]

I'm with replace it yourself with the new brakes line from the auto parts store. Those new lines are easy to bend, I replaced both front lines on the 1986 F150 last Summer.

 

Yes really easy to bend.

 

You may want to call SOA and see if they will pay for the parts or at least that block ?

 

BTW, I'm one of the one's where Subaru replaced all the brake lines under my wagon two years after the wax was applies. My dealership never give me any issues, but I have spent a lot of money there over the years.

Edited December 3, 2018 by Max Capacity

[Holla]

SOA had just replaced mine on ‘good will’ a couple of months ago after it failed on me. I had the recall done a few years ago.

 

I think the dealership had quoted me around $100 for the parts and $1700 for labor. I’d probably just buy the kit from them.

[Berge56]

Subaru just replaced the brake lines on my dads 06 outback under warranty. He had all the recalls done, but the wax coating is a band aid and SOA should be responsible for replacing brake lines that fail even after the band aid was put on.

[jaylew]

Yeah I am going to give them a call today and see what they can do. If they are willing to send me new brake lines then sweet! I will likely add a layer of paint to the whole line or to the common areas before installing.

 

I looked up the price and OE from the discount dealership up in washington it would be $150 for the center and $80 for the rear.

 

I will look into the copper-nickle if SOA is being that bitchy. I have no problem taking it to a dealership but logically it makes sense for me to do it since I already have everything out of the way and I am about to rip out my interior anyway.

 

Either way this is going to be replaced. Max, you give me hope to persist and be as annoying as possible while on the phone with SOA about this

 

Thank you for all of the help!!

 

I'll keep you posted on what happens

[ehsnils]

You may not even need a new block.

 

 

If I'm not mistaken the block is essentially just two individual fittings in one unit with no special functionality.

 

 

And when redoing the brake lines - don't mix up left and right side or the ABS will get confused.

[xt2005bonbon]

I haven't gone in for my airbag recall because I don't want those morons even touching my car.

 

 

+1000.

 

 

I told the head BOZO at the dealership that if he wanted to give me the airbag, I would replace it and return the old one, and he said: "No way. How could someone like you be good enough to know how to do that?"

After I calmed down and the murderous adrenaline subsided, I told him it would frosty in hell before they ever touched my car. He couldn't have cared less.

 

 

 

[jaylew]

Ok so after one quick phone call with SOA, I was pretty much shut down and told even if I bring my car to a dealership that I would be denied due to the fact that the car was 'taken care of' already and has 236k miles. I am waiting for a supervisor to call me tomorrow to try and escalate this party.

 

 

 

Preparing for the worst and totally being shut down a last ditch effort might be to talk to a local dealership in person (though likely futile)

 

 

In any event a brake line flare tool is not bad ($30 Flare tool)

I am just not sure what dimensions brake line and and threaded nuts are needed. Can anyone help so I can start shopping to make my own brakes. If I can get the parts (not including tool) for less then the cost of OE brake lines ($240) then I am sold and SOA can suck my.....

 

 

Thanks for the help!!! I swear I will pay it forward

[JmP6889928]

3/16" line with Japanese nuts on them. Parts store will be able to help you. Purchase the copper nickel and you won't be sorry. Bends very nicely and it won't ever corrode. It was developed by Saab and Volvo for the Scandinavian winters to last and you rarely, if ever, see one of those cars needing a brake line.

[Berge56]

+1 on the nickel copper. Super easy to bend and will outlast the car.

[jaylew]

Just got a call back from a SOA customer service manager and was told the same thing, that my car is old and too high mileage. Sad to see this is the way they treat the last good Subaru wagon in America.

 

I'm full nicopp train now. I'll keep this update on how that goes

Edited December 4, 2018 by jaylew

[JmP6889928]

NiCopp is my development. I put that program together for American Grease Stick when I worked for them. I also put in the small grease packets at AZ and developedand patented (among many other patents) a tubing repair tool for A/C, coolant, fuel, and P/S lines that won an international award in 2013 from MACS for Most Innovative New Tool. It's called Kledge-Lok. Look it up.

[xt2005bonbon]

Just got a call back from a SOA customer service manager and was told the same thing, that my car is old and too high mileage. Dad to see this is the way they treat the last good Subaru wagon in America.

 

 

Yeah. And then they like to show these ads boasting of all these high mileage Subarus still on the road, and yet, don't want to support them.

[jaylew]

Ok, after continuing work on the car which has gone from a simple 1 month project to a full on winter project. I looked at the routing of the center brake lines and I want to slap the engineer that decided to place the through point at the fire wall. That will be fun to fish out without removing the fan box. I will have to investigate further but if anyone has suggestions for future me when tackling this as to fire wall routing it would be appreciated haha!

[ehsnils]

An alternative is to skip going through the firewall and instead go on the outside. Just look at the possible alternate solution so you don't have to grow an extra elbow just to solve the simple problem.

 

 

It's probably that they installed the brake lines first, then the HVAC and then the rest of the interior.

 

 

In sensitive areas, add shielding.

[jaylew]

Well I took the dive now really am committed to going NiCopp lines. I cut the rear lines to make it easier to remove and then pull the center lines into the car for when I raptor lined the under body. I made sure to mark the center line that leads to the rear right side before cutting so that when I make the new lines I can trace things.

[Holla]

Your pic shows perfectly exactly where mine failed. Just to the right of the bracket on the top line where it’s rusty is what finally gave out on my wagon. Edited December 9, 2018 by Holla

[tominator19]

Oh boy, am I teetering on the edge of brake line failure. Check out this picture.

 

Cityside Subaru in Belmont, MA claims that Subaru of America will only honor the recall and cover the cost of the brake line replacement if the lines are ACTUALLY LEAKING, which is terrifying. BRB, let me crash my car due to brake failure to get my brake line replacement covered

 

[xt2005bonbon]

Well, if these are not leaking, then they'll spray some 'bandaids' crap.

 

 

Hopefully, they'll be smarter and fix this!

[jaylew]

I am in the process of replacing some of the brake lines now. The front passenger I am completely replacing because it is a short enough run and I rounded out the brake line bolt in the fender well.

I was originally going to replace the entire length of the center lines but my mind changed when I saw how much of a PITA it will be at the fire wall.

**If some one can tell me it is easy to remove the fan box assembly in the dash (my lower dash is already opened up) then I will go back to replacing the whole line***

So, now I plan to flare the current lines under the rear seat and run new NiCopp lines from there. The rest of the hard lines in the rear are being replaced with NiCopp. I will post pics once done but here is some progress of bending one of the NiCopp lines

[zactek]

For those who have done their own flaring,what type is it? Is it the ISO/ bubble type of the inverted (45deg.) type? I'm in the same boat and trying to figure out what the car has.

 

Thanks, Zack K

[apexi]

While waiting for a reply, I don't know if this might help.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080