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Hello all,

 

14459AA340

 

A mechanic told me that this is leaking (he said intake duck under intake manifold leading the turbo) and I wanted to know if anyone knows how to replace this? Or if this is the wrong part?

 

Thanks!

Edited by Carmania24
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That is the turbo inlet for an '05-'06 Legacy GT or Outback XT. Hopefully you have one of those? Common source of vacuum leaks. The replacement procedure is disconnect the 8 connection points, pull it out, put in and connect the new one. Harder than it sounds, not an easy task for a newbie. But doable if you're patient.
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That is the turbo inlet for an '05-'06 Legacy GT or Outback XT. Hopefully you have one of those? Common source of vacuum leaks. The replacement procedure is disconnect the 8 connection points, pull it out, put in and connect the new one. Harder than it sounds, not an easy task for a newbie. But doable if you're patient.

 

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2CoAAOSw1WJZFh8A/s-l1600.jpg

 

^ that is the part # the dealer gave me. I want to make sure myself the mechanic is telling me the truth or just trying to squeeze more money out of me. Only place I can visually see where a leak would happen is the rubber part in the middle. I do not have the part itself, but a dealer has it. If anything I will buy it online and replace it, though I do not know how to do it. Thanks!

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UPDATE

 

Checked out the part it was ripped on the hose clamp side that goes to the turbo. Put a silicone hose on the turbo and on the part (# above) and tightened it as much as possible. Seems to be fine for now till the new part arrives. However now there is a new problem...

 

I did remove the intercooler and the hose that goes to the throttle body. Now for some reason (after doing this job) it does not want to climb hills (not even tiny sloped ones). It will get boost perfectly fine in 1st and 2nd. 3rd gear is very jerky and stutters. 1st to 2nd gear shifts perfectly fine, and then when shifting to 3rd it shifts really hard. 4th to 5th is not as bad but still does it.

 

Transmission fluid was low last night when I checked it while the car was still operating temp. I added the fluid in. I just got the car back and the mechanic test drove it a lot to make sure it was fine. I assumed it had enough fluid in it, guess I was wrong. I just got the car back a day ago. Checked the car this morning to see if it was leaking and saw nothing, the dipstick showed full. I drove to work got out and checked it again at operating temp and it showed full.

 

Can this mean there might be a boost leak? Could this mean the transmission is loosing pressure? The mechanic did tell me that the TB hose to the TMIC is going prone to going bad and he siliconed it on to make sure it was fine. I already purchase a silicon version of that hose. It will be here next week.

 

No check engine light and car does is not misfiring. Please someone tell me for the love of god that my transmission is not dying. I absolutely can not afford a new one, I had to take out a personal loan to get the new engine.

 

Should I make my TCU relearn itself?

 

UPDATE 2

 

I unplugged the negative terminal for about 10 seconds and put it back on and tightened it

I tightened the clamp on the IC hose from the TB

I sat in the car turned the key to the ON position and tapped the gas pedals a few times and then pushed it all the way down.

 

Whatever I did there made the response MUCH better and the shifting smoother. It has a hard shift into 3rd, but not as hard anymore as it was before. It can now climb hills no problems. I can also now hear the turbo getting the air sucked into it (probably cause my radio was on before).

 

After the first test drive I let it cool down. I then just went for another longer drive and it was behaving the same as it was during the first test drive (the good way not the bad way). However I think my engine mounts may be bad which is causing the slight jerkiness. The car does have almost 175,000 miles on the body and I am not sure when they were changed.

Edited by Carmania24
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Silicone inlets fit terribly, stick with OEM unless you have big power goals.

 

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

Sounds good. Thank you.

 

Also dumb question— when looking at the transmission dipstick and the engine is at operating temp, should I be looking at the hot end of the stick or the middle?

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Sounds like you could use the service manual, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

Agree the stock intake hose is the best. You may need to lift the intake manifold at the heads to make it easy to replace the tube. Pull the long bolts that hold the intake manifold/TGV's to the heads.

 

The TB hose is also a nightmare. Most of us pull that insert boot out on both ends. Others just save the hassle and buy a Grimmspeed TMIC it makes removing the TMIC so much easier. They are not cheap, but its a great part.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Sounds like you could use the service manual, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

Agree the stock intake hose is the best. You may need to lift the intake manifold at the heads to make it easy to replace the tube. Pull the long bolts that hold the intake manifold/TGV's to the heads.

 

The TB hose is also a nightmare. Most of us pull that insert boot out on both ends. Others just save the hassle and buy a Grimmspeed TMIC it makes removing the TMIC so much easier. They are not cheap, but its a great part.

 

Thank you.

 

We managed to get it off after a while (I believe close to an hour) and after breaking a few nails off and many cuts later we got it back on. As for removing the TB hose and TMIC it was not hard at all. That part only took us about 15 minutes. I bought a new TB to TMIC silicon hose, but it seems like I shouldn't have because it was just not tight enough.

 

Seems like there it is doing fine now with no boost leak. I just need to now save up for new control arm bushings and an alignment (I have an unused groupon for that).

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That's normal. I don't know the technical name, those rectangular light boxes are from the "squirrel finders" in your headlights. I think they're designed to send some light upwards to illuminate street signs.

 

Pictures in the link below

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2795437&postcount=8

 

Sometimes when people run hid's, they'll close the squirrel finders, or fill them in so that they don't blind people.

 

some people just bend the metal down to cover them, but I guess that might actually make things (glare towards oncoming traffic) worse some people say.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/filling-squirrel-finders-182329.html

 

After a bodyshop installed an aftermarket tyc headlight, I noticed it sent more light through the squirrel finders than my oem Subaru headlight.

1.thumb.jpg.46d0cfd007bf0b095db06a1e9866bf58.jpg

Edited by apexi
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That's normal. I don't know the technical name, those rectangular light boxes are from the "squirrel finders" in your headlights. I think they're designed to send some light upwards to illuminate street signs.

 

Pictures in the link below

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2795437&postcount=8

 

Sometimes when people run hid's, they'll close the squirrel finders, or fill them in so that they don't blind people.

 

some people just bend the metal down to cover them, but I guess that might actually make things (glare towards oncoming traffic) worse some people say.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/filling-squirrel-finders-182329.html

 

After a bodyshop installed an aftermarket tyc headlight, I noticed it sent more light through the squirrel finders than my oem Subaru headlight.

 

Oh I see, thank you. It is kind of annoying honestly, but if that is normal then no need to stress.

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As long as you're running 55w h7 halogen bulbs, and your headlights are properly aimed, I wouldn't worry.

 

If you're running hid's, led's, or high power halogen bulbs then that changes things, and I'd consider doing something about it.

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AVO TMIC and AVO silicon hose from TMIC to intake. If you use the OEM hose put some oil on the inside to install easier. A while back I had the same issue and finally found the mounts for the TMIC were missing. I installed the mounts and found the OEM TMIC is junk anyway the tanks started separating on mine. That is when I went AVO and have never looked back at that problem.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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As long as you're running 55w h7 halogen bulbs, and your headlights are properly aimed, I wouldn't worry.

 

If you're running hid's, led's, or high power halogen bulbs then that changes things, and I'd consider doing something about it.

 

I see, I think that is what I am running. They seem to be installed just fine.

 

AVO TMIC and AVO silicon hose from TMIC to intake. If you use the OEM hose put some oil on the inside to install easier. A while back I had the same issue and finally found the mounts for the TMIC were missing. I installed the mounts and found the OEM TMIC is junk anyway the tanks started separating on mine. That is when I went AVO and have never looked back at that problem.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I will look into that.

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Another question- ever since I had the car I realized none of the dome lights come on when I unlock the car. The front lights come on when I press the button. The ones in the door on the bottom work. However the rear ones don’t work at all. The radio lights and dash lights all work properly. Could this be a fuse? If so which one should I be checking and where? Thank you!

 

Also the heated seats don’t work. The light comes on that they’re turned on but ever actually warm up.

Edited by Carmania24
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I tried to do a little research..

 

If the front lights come on when you press the button, the fuse for the dome light above the armrest should be fine, they appear to share the same fuse. #8 in the engine bay if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly.

 

It looks like there could be three fuses inside the car associated with the heated seats. #6, #16, and #17.

 

There's also a relay for the heated seats inside the car, near the fuses listed above. MSRP on a #1 relay in the link below is $7.25, but it looks like there are a number of those relays in the box, so if they're the same you could just swap for a quick test.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-GT-Limited-Sedan-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD/_52016_6023696/ELECTRICAL-PARTS-BODY-FUSE-BOX-05MY-06MY/B13-835-03.html

 

I apologize if this is a stupid question, but the switch for the dome light is in the center for "door" like I have in the picture below, right?

 

There's also a thread on how to fix heated seats if something inside the seat gets disconnected, but it's a very involved process, so hopefully it's something simple like a relay..

fuses.jpg.6476ea6b580d8d5affdcc4a8d4baaaa8.jpg

switch.jpg.2ddd304408206f06b037d0a1df7fc3f7.jpg

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I tried to do a little research..

 

If the front lights come on when you press the button, the fuse for the dome light above the armrest should be fine, they appear to share the same fuse. #8 in the engine bay if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly.

 

It looks like there could be three fuses inside the car associated with the heated seats. #6, #16, and #17.

 

There's also a relay for the heated seats inside the car, near the fuses listed above. MSRP on a #1 relay in the link below is $7.25, but it looks like there are a number of those relays in the box, so if they're the same you could just swap for a quick test.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-GT-Limited-Sedan-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD/_52016_6023696/ELECTRICAL-PARTS-BODY-FUSE-BOX-05MY-06MY/B13-835-03.html

 

I apologize if this is a stupid question, but the switch for the dome light is in the center for "door" like I have in the picture below, right?

 

There's also a thread on how to fix heated seats if something inside the seat gets disconnected, but it's a very involved process, so hopefully it's something simple like a relay..

 

Thanks for the info. I did see the forum for fixing the heated seats but that is too much for me to handle lol.

 

As for the lights yes, the button is in the middle. The only lights that come on when I open the door/unlock the car are the lights on the driver and passenger door at the bottom. No other lights come on. The dash and radio lights all work just fine. :spin::confused:

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I apologize because I know this is another dumb question, but the bulb works right? The light comes on when you switch it to on? It only doesn't work when you unlock the car, or open the doors?
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I apologize because I know this is another dumb question, but the bulb works right? The light comes on when you switch it to on? It only doesn't work when you unlock the car, or open the doors?

 

Not a dumb question at all; sorry for being unclear. So when I unlock the car with my remote, NO lights come on at all. Not the front and not the rear. When I open the door, the lights that come on are the ones at the bottom of the driver and passenger door. No other lights come on. The front lights when I click the button come on, so I know those bulbs are working. However the rear ones, do not work at all even if switched to the ON position. I am dumb, I have not checked the bulbs. But my question is aren't the front ones supposed to come on too when I unlock the car? (MAP lights?)

 

Thanks!!

Edited by Carmania24
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But my question is aren't the front ones supposed to come on too when I unlock the car? (MAP lights?)

 

Thanks!!

 

 

 

Nope..and not even when the door is opened. They are solely map lights. There is a way to make that happen though in the mod sticky above.

 

Edit: link

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/map-lights-dome-light-mod-23139.html?t=23139

Edited by DaveWaters
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Interesting, in my '09 the two map lights, and the dome light come on when I unlock my car, I just checked.

 

Though, the wording in the 2005 fsm makes it sound like only the dome light is supposed to come on.

 

If your bulb is good, and it still doesn't come on, I wonder if someone had Subaru modify the setting? Unlikely, but I don't know what else it could be.

527921406_interiorlight.jpg.986d5e2e768e7235fcbf4a3d8cc3e805.jpg

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Nope..and not even when the door is opened. They are solely map lights. There is a way to make that happen though in the mod sticky above.

 

Edit: link

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/map-lights-dome-light-mod-23139.html?t=23139

 

Thanks a bunch, I will look into doing this if a new bulb does not fix the issue.

 

Interesting, in my '09 the two map lights, and the dome light come on when I unlock my car, I just checked.

 

Though, the wording in the 2005 fsm makes it sound like only the dome light is supposed to come on.

 

If your bulb is good, and it still doesn't come on, I wonder if someone had Subaru modify the setting? Unlikely, but I don't know what else it could be.

 

Maybe just a short in the wiring? Anyways, thank you for the help. Will report back after getting a new bulb. And I will look more into the heated seats later. Looks like my heater is also gone, heater core is leaking.

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