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Bad TOB or Flywheel or Something Else? 06 OBXT 5MT


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Good Luck.

 

The engine is out of the car, so even if you have a problem, the engine can be taken to a machine shop to remove the bolts.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Put the socket into the head of the bolt and smack it hard with a hammer. This shocks and loosens the threads. They'll come out pretty easy after that.

 

I might give this a try as well before cutting/drilling the remaining bolts. The bolts are stripped, so not much I can do at this point other than drill them out and cut some of the flywheel off. I started cutting the center spokes yesterday and got one of the heads drilled off. Very tedious work so far. I think my drill bits are not the best....

 

Ill post some pictures next time I get the chance to show the progress

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Home Depot will have "rotary files" around where they have the drill bit's. They fit in the drill or in a air tool.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=rotary+files+for+metal&oq=rotary+siles&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.6359j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 weeks later...
So my car is in the shop right now getting a trans swap and some bolts are stripped - howed your progress go?

 

Just got my flywheel off today.... I have not had time throughout the holidays to work on it. Here is what I did:

 

Cut the inner DMFW spokes out, and used a 17mm bolt extractor to remove the nuts (as if they were rounded nuts)

 

IMG_0314_zpsbm2eqip8.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0315_zpswyn24ob7.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0317_zpsg1nly1kk.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0326_zpsnudkmceo.jpg

 

 

Now my next question is about the rear main seal. Is this grease build up from the time of install or is this oil sweating? It seems like grease from when the rear main seal was originally installed. I do no see any real oil build up anywhere. I do not like to replace the rear or front main seals unless they are actually leaking as its always a risk when replacing these. If I replace it with another OEM seal and score the surface or if the seal is not even, it could leak worse than it already was.

 

What do you guys think? Old grease or bad seal?

 

 

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0318_zpsva98der9.jpghttp://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0319_zps3q1q1ozy.jpghttp://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0324_zpsqltogybg.jpg

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Just got my flywheel off today.... I have not had time throughout the holidays to work on it. Here is what I did:

 

 

 

Cut the inner DMFW spokes out, and used a 17mm bolt extractor to remove the nuts (as if they were rounded nuts)

 

 

 

IMG_0314_zpsbm2eqip8.jpg

 

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0315_zpswyn24ob7.jpg

 

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0317_zpsg1nly1kk.jpg

 

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0326_zpsnudkmceo.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Now my next question is about the rear main seal. Is this grease build up from the time of install or is this oil sweating? It seems like grease from when the rear main seal was originally installed. I do no see any real oil build up anywhere. I do not like to replace the rear or front main seals unless they are actually leaking as its always a risk when replacing these. If I replace it with another OEM seal and score the surface or if the seal is not even, it could leak worse than it already was.

 

 

 

What do you guys think? Old grease or bad seal?

 

 

 

 

 

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0318_zpsva98der9.jpghttp://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0319_zps3q1q1ozy.jpghttp://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0324_zpsqltogybg.jpg

I would say the rear main seal and cover plate are leaking. Buy the updated cover plate with button head hex bolts and replace that one. Those screws strip really easily.
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I’m thinking that’s normal and not leaking because that dust looks dry to me as well as that cover. I just don’t see any moist oil.

 

Maybe PM m sprank and ask him to look at those photos.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I would say the rear main seal and cover plate are leaking. Buy the updated cover plate with button head hex bolts and replace that one. Those screws strip really easily.

 

Tempting, but the cover plate is definitely not leaking at all. The only seal possibly in question is the rear main seal, and I am leaning more towards a not leaking. I will try to get a few more opinions, thanks for the suggestion! If I replace the rear main, I will probably do the revised cover plate as well as you mentioned.

 

 

I’m thinking that’s normal and not leaking because that dust looks dry to me as well as that cover. I just don’t see any moist oil.

 

Maybe PM m sprank and ask him to look at those photos.

 

I am on the same line of thinking as you. It seems too early to be leaking, it has 178,xxx Km (~111,xxx miles). I will send a PM!

 

I will need to see my past service records from the last time the clutch was done, I don't think the seal was replaced, but I will double check in case it was.

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Just got my flywheel off today.... I have not had time throughout the holidays to work on it. Here is what I did:

 

Cut the inner DMFW spokes out, and used a 17mm bolt extractor to remove the nuts (as if they were rounded nuts)

 

 

Thats pretty much what the shop ended up doing to mine.

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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Thats pretty much what the shop ended up doing to mine.

 

Yep! Not surprised, I am not really sure of any better or easier ways to go about it. I tried drilling, and that was not going too well, but if you can get a bolt extractor on there, those lock on really well! And they just barley fit!

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Based on the response I got from m sprank and the research I have done, I believe this is just residual grease from the original time of installation. The cover plate is also not leaking at all. I plan to leave the rear main seal and cover plate as is. If something happens, I will take the risk of potentially having to take the motor out again (I do no anticipate any issues with it).

 

Now once I get time, I can complete the installation!

 

Next question would be, what does everyone recommend for transmission high temp grease? I bought the grease used at subaru for this application, some people also use anti-seize. What works best?

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That's what I thought Mike would say.

 

I use wheel bearing grease, a light coat on the tranny snout where the TOB slides, lightly coat the splines where the disc rides, lightly on the ID of the pilot bearing.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Finally got around to installing the new clutch kit and flywheel! I ended up using the high temp grease I got from Subaru, we will see how it holds out.

 

Got the engine back in the car and the bell housing bolts in, now I need to finish the rest of the re-install.

 

IMG_0352_zpsiao1foyz.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0353_zpswjmnkyxu.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0354_zpsx6135uor.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0357_zpssthhjqxc.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0358_zps7uz1mkan.jpg

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Pretty parts.

 

Good Luck

 

Make sure the fork hasn't fallen off the pivot ball before you get to far.

 

I am 90% sure its on the pivot ball. This might be dumb of me to ask, but any good ways to test that the fork is attached and not fallen off the pivot ball once the transmission and engine is together?

 

I am assuming I can just test it by engaging the clutch while I have the two together and before finishing the rest of the assembly?

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Got everything put back together and did a test drive, so far everything is running well and the new clutch and flywheel feels great! Still got to break in the new clutch though.

 

Thanks for all the help everyone! Especially you Max Capacity!

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