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Bad TOB or Flywheel or Something Else? 06 OBXT 5MT


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If the end of your tranny snout is messed up then you may need that kit. If not any TOB will be fine.

 

Here's a quick search results I did for the Spec Cutch. Not much different in cost, verify the correct model year.

https://www.bing.com/shop?q=spec+2%2b+clutch+kits+2005+subaru+legacy+GT&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=10146B318EAE47E981D3A64E2AFADBFD

 

I couldn't open that link :(

 

The Exedy clutch kit I posted is listed on amazon.ca for ~$380 CAD shipped, so that is quite significantly cheaper than most other kits I have seen. Does not seem like a scam either!

 

As for the TOB, I am wondering if buying the TSK3 would help prevent any future issues or if this TOB kit would last longer than an OEM TOB since that seems to be the common failure part. I am assuming I could still install it on a healthy transmission snout (Assuming mine is healthy, I did not take a crazy good look at it yet).

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So I just clicked on the link and saw different prices than the last time. Look up Import Image Racing that was the site with the $609 price for a 2 plus Spec clutch.

 

I would run the TOB stock. Don’t pay for something you don’t need. With high temp grease on the snout you’ll be fine. That’s all I have used.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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So I just clicked on the link and saw different prices than the last time. Look up Import Image Racing that was the site with the $609 price for a 2 plus Spec clutch.

 

I ended up purchasing the stage 1 clutch from Exedy at $360 CAD new from Amazon.ca. My budget for the clutch itself was around $500 CAD. The Spec stage 1 is $700 CAD before shipping and the stage 2 plus you mentioned is about $800 CAD before shipping. I am sure its worth the money and obviously is a good clutch assuming you have had yours on the vehicle for some time. Just not what I need since I will basically just be daily driving it with the odd extra kick here and there.

 

I would run the TOB stock. Don’t pay for something you don’t need. With high temp grease on the snout you’ll be fine. That’s all I have used.

 

Hmmm, I don't mind forking out a bit of extra money (extra $100 from the money I saved on the clutch) if this is a more well suited TOB and if it will protect the shaft in the future if something comes up since this seems to be the problem part of these subaru's... I will have to do a bit more searching, I am familiar with engine related problems but not as much drive-train.

 

Oh see if IIR can get the ford T50 plus too.

 

Just ordered one on amazon that you had recommended to me earlier. Although the site you mentioned did have this bit for sale as well. Thanks for the help!

 

 

Next thing for me to do is order an OEM SMFW from subaru and the correct hex bolts to go with it.

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I picked up a few parts from the subaru dealership today:

 

-Pilot Bearing

-(x8) New 2007 LGT Hex Flywheel Bolts for SMFW - Part #800610740

-Some High Temp Grease they apparently use on clutch installs for TOBs and transmission shafts - Part #000041000

 

Has anyone ever used this kind of grease? Its all in Japanese, and appears to be silicon based. Does anyone typically use a different kind of grease that works best?

 

Also ordered a new SMFW from 2007 LGT 5MT

 

IMG_0103_zpsgninsghl.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0104_zpslvp3pue7.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac31/mitch667/IMG_0105_zpsjy7efrmz.jpg

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If there is nothing wrong with your tranny snout, the stock style TOB is fine. Just put a light coat of high temp grease on the tranny snout.

 

Take a picture of your tranny snout.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Found these going through some pictures. The Blast Plates on the tranny help's the case stay in shape, not letting it flex. The tranny no longer fight's me going into 3rd gear at high RPM. About 50,000 miles ago the Spec LWFW was replaced with the OEM SMFW. I still have the LWFW and torx bolts. Not sure what I'm going to do with it.

 

DSCN6632.thumb.JPG.09a0696e993cfaf55abb2a065aaca7ba.JPG

 

DSCN7319.thumb.JPG.3260ef6f20e94c703574c6656b4a0ec1.JPG

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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If there is nothing wrong with your tranny snout, the stock style TOB is fine. Just put a light coat of high temp grease on the tranny snout.

 

Take a picture of your tranny snout.

 

I will take a picture of it tonight!

 

The clutch kit should come with a pilot bearing.

 

I use wheel bearing grease.

 

I bought some of the 000041000 grease subaru uses, and I also found this online:

 

https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/121357/133284

 

Looks like this is the grease they use on their TOBs, forks, etc...

 

I also totally forgot my kit comes with a pilot bearing.... I will have to decide which one to use, OEM or Exedy. Or they might be the same KOYO part, not sure yet haha

 

 

Found these going through some pictures. The Blast Plates on the tranny help's the case stay in shape, not letting it flex. The tranny no longer fight's me going into 3rd gear at high RPM. About 50,000 miles ago the Spec LWFW was replaced with the OEM SMFW. I still have the LWFW and torx bolts. Not sure what I'm going to do with it.

 

Is the blast plates the black items on the side of the transmission? sounds interesting!

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Yes I think they were 300 dollars.

 

Do you remember where you purchased them? Or have a part number? I might be interested in some in the future.

 

 

Here is the transmission snout. Looks like part of it is cracking I think... At the edge of the aluminum before the splines

 

0apkCHY.jpg

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zUpEthi.jpg

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I got the Moore Performance Blast Plates from a group buy. You can find them on the web.

 

Seeing those pictures of the snout, I think your correct, the TSK kit would be a safer option. Those cracks in the second photo, have me concerned. Do some reach on the ID of the TSK3, make sure it will fit over the length of the snout that is not in to bad shape.

 

Thinking more about this job, check the fork for cracks where it sits on the pivot ball. Some have been breaking there.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I got the Moore Performance Blast Plates from a group buy. You can find them on the web.

 

Seeing those pictures of the snout, I think your correct, the TSK kit would be a safer option. Those cracks in the second photo, have me concerned. Do some reach on the ID of the TSK3, make sure it will fit over the length of the snout that is not in to bad shape.

 

Thinking more about this job, check the fork for cracks where it sits on the pivot ball. Some have been breaking there.

 

I will do some more searching for the TSK3 kit, I have dome some already, and it looks like its the best option I can think of.

 

I will be buying a new fork, already ordered one from Subaru along with my new SMFW. I will still check my old one over to see if it actually had further wear as well!

 

 

Definitely sleeve that.

 

This is likely the plan, just trying to find the most affordable place to buy the TSK3 kit shipped to Canada.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Was trying to take off the original DMFW today using the Torx 50 Plus bit I got off amazon, and had no luck :(

 

None of my impacts are strong enough (Strongest one being a corded impact, no more than 200 ft-lbs of torque)

 

Tried using (2) breaker bars, on on the crank bolt and the other on anyone of the torx bits holding the DMFW. Had no luck there, was too afraid to strip them. I am starting to think my only good option is to use a 500 to 1000 ft-lbs torque rated cordless impact driver (I do not have an air comp. or air tools).

 

Does anyone else have any clever ways to remove these DMFW's? Without having to purchase a $500 cordless 1/2" drive impact gun? Trying to avoid dropping that much money on a tool right now.

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Hit the end of the breaker bar with a 5lb hammer while pushing on the off direction. Making your home made impact wrench.

 

When one bolt starts to move go to the next one, leave them all fairly tight until they are all broke loose.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Hit the end of the breaker bar with a 5lb hammer while pushing on the off direction. Making your home made impact wrench.

 

When one bolt starts to move go to the next one, leave them all fairly tight until they are all broke loose.

 

I think I will give this a try if I do not find a way to borrow a heavy duty cordless impact.

 

My friend has a 1000 ft-lb reverse torque mikita cordless impact. I will try to borrow that first, if not, I will resort to the method above next. I just don't like the idea of stripping these bolts :(

 

I think the rest of my parts should be in the mail soon too hopefully!

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I used that hitting the head of a breaker bar today at work and showed one of the younger engineers that trick. It worked on 4 hex screws.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Tried my luck again today, had a friend hold the crank for me as I tried to loosen the bolts.

 

First we tried his Makita impact driver, and had no luck!!! Could not believe the impact gun could not take these off with its 1000 ft-lbs reverse torque rating.... These bolts are on there good!

 

Next was to have him hold the crank with a breaker bar and 22mm socket. Then I took my breaker bar with the torx 50 plus bit and a cheater bar from my floor jack. I was able to crack (5) of the (8) bolts loose, and the other (3) bolts stripped..... They were really tight.

 

Not sure how I should go about the stripped bolts. Any suggestions to get these off without cutting the DMFW? I would like to salvage the DMFW if possible. Is there a recommended extractor kit that could work?

 

I tried drilling a hole into one bolt and use the extractor set I have (cheap set), but all my titanium and cobalt small bits are pretty worn out. Couldn't get a hole started, maybe I need to buy better bits.

 

(2) out of the (3) stripped bolts

 

IMG_0190_zpsmsa856at.jpg

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ooof that sucks. I nearly stripped one of those damn things this time around, and should have put in new bolts but didn't.

 

I used the Exedy OEM kit- FJK1001FW. I got it for $520 back in 2012. Comes with a great lightweight flywheel, the car actually got easier to drive.

 

It started slipping after only about 55k miles, so last weekend I put in the Exedy Organic Racing Clutch, item number 15804 and just had the flywheel resurfaced to a 2 mil step. So far it is absolutely fantastic. Grippy clutch, solid engagement, very linear feel to it. Wife can drive it just fine.

 

I didn't have to use the TSK3 kit I bought just in case. I was going to return it, if you want it shoot me a PM.

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ooof that sucks. I nearly stripped one of those damn things this time around, and should have put in new bolts but didn't.

 

I used the Exedy OEM kit- FJK1001FW. I got it for $520 back in 2012. Comes with a great lightweight flywheel, the car actually got easier to drive.

 

It started slipping after only about 55k miles, so last weekend I put in the Exedy Organic Racing Clutch, item number 15804 and just had the flywheel resurfaced to a 2 mil step. So far it is absolutely fantastic. Grippy clutch, solid engagement, very linear feel to it. Wife can drive it just fine.

 

I didn't have to use the TSK3 kit I bought just in case. I was going to return it, if you want it shoot me a PM.

 

Thanks, but I already bought a TSK3 kit which is still coming in the mail. I have the Exedy 15804 coming in the mail, and a brand new OEM Subaru SMFW

 

IMG_0186_zps6zxlule6.jpg

 

 

Anyone have any good tips for removing the stripped flywheel bolts?

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Drill the heads off. Then slide the FW off what is left. The shank of the remaining bolts may come out easy after the FW is out of the way.

 

Used to do that with Honda brake rotors, those stupid countersunk screws Honda used to keep the rotors stable on the hub's. Used a 3/8 to remove the screw head, lift the rotor off and then use my fingers to remove the rest of the screw.

 

Worst case is you need to weld a piece on the screw to remove it. If vise grips don't work. Most of the holding force is the bolt head against the FW. Not the threads on the bolt.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Drill the heads off. Then slide the FW off what is left. The shank of the remaining bolts may come out easy after the FW is out of the way.

 

Used to do that with Honda brake rotors, those stupid countersunk screws Honda used to keep the rotors stable on the hub's. Used a 3/8 to remove the screw head, lift the rotor off and then use my fingers to remove the rest of the screw.

 

Worst case is you need to weld a piece on the screw to remove it. If vise grips don't work. Most of the holding force is the bolt head against the FW. Not the threads on the bolt.

 

Yea, good point with the holding force on the flywheel. I think I will invest in some better drill bits and give it a shot. I have tried the welding trick in the past, it works very well, but I don't have a welder readily available, so that likely wont happen. I will try to drill these out sometime this week again hopefully.

 

So basically you are using an oversize drill bit to essentially drill out the head using the existing stripped cavity? Then keep up sizing until the head is gone, slide the flywheel off and then grab the remainder of the bolt after. And being careful not to damage the stud, flywheel or crank.

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Correct, stop drilling once the head is off. The point of the drill won't go that far into the FW to risk the crank. You'll be stopping long before that. This FW is junk any ways.

 

I picture you'll be up around a 1/2" drill bit to remove the heads. That bolt shank is smaller then that...if I recall correctly.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Correct, stop drilling once the head is off. The point of the drill won't go that far into the FW to risk the crank. You'll be stopping long before that. This FW is junk any ways.

 

I picture you'll be up around a 1/2" drill bit to remove the heads. That bolt shank is smaller then that...if I recall correctly.

 

Got it, I probably have some un-used cobalt drill bits in the larger size that will work. I wanted to salvage it in case of issues, or to sell. But then again, who wants to buy a DMFW? lol...

 

The DMFW and clutch are in good shape, just not the TOB.

 

Ill update once I give this a shot!

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