1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 But firm when warmed.. its to the point it’s hard to fully disengage the clutch if it is too cold. The slave cylinder is almost a year old maybe it could be the clutch cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 If the level is OK and not dropping it's probably the master cylinder that needs a replacement. Any difference when you push down the pedal fast or slow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 If the level is OK and not dropping it's probably the master cylinder that needs a replacement. Any difference when you push down the pedal fast or slow? No change Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Odd theory: You have air bubbles in you're lines. When it's cold air compresses causing the mushy feeling. My Infiniti's clutch would stick when it was freezing outside. I replaced the fluid and it it was fine. My theory on it is that my 4-5yo DOT4 fluid contained enough moisture in it that it would slightly freeze/solidify and cause the clutch to stick. Take away: Don't use DOT4 fluid in clutches, DOT4 absorbs water faster then then DOT3, and you don't need the initial boiling point increase anyway. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 Odd theory: You have air bubbles in you're lines. When it's cold air compresses causing the mushy feeling. My Infiniti's clutch would stick when it was freezing outside. I replaced the fluid and it it was fine. My theory on it is that my 4-5yo DOT4 fluid contained enough moisture in it that it would slightly freeze/solidify and cause the clutch to stick. Take away: Don't use DOT4 fluid in clutches, DOT4 absorbs water faster then then DOT3, and you don't need the initial boiling point increase anyway. Probably will bleed it when I get home and will see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 Well shit went to bleed it first thing I should of noticed was the fluid level not dropping and now the clutch pedal will not come up on its own.. now I need a new MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 I'm trying to get a new master cylinder does anyone know if part #37230FE060 would work in my '05? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 OK I installed it today and I have a very soft pedal.. matter of fact I spent 40 min bleeding it and it's still the same feeling I have about 3-5mm of play before I can feel the clutch grab.. unless I missed something how can I make the pedal firm? btw I put brake fluid in it before I installed it on the car and plugged the output and it was already coming out with force. So I can't understand the issue.. I have a speed bleeder on the slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Take help from someone and look at the movement of the slave while your friend is slowly pushing down the pedal. The slave should have a linear movement. It is possible that the problem is the fork and/or clutch bearing, but short of splitting engine/gearbox you wouldn't know. Also make sure that the pedal mounting and the pedal itself is OK and not broken in some way. It might be that the clutch itself is a bit stiffer when cold and that makes the pedal support to flex and give way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 Can’t be because before I changed the master cylinder when warm it would be fine when cold no good.. the old one was not moving fluid with the output disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 A 3 to 5mm play on the pedal seems right unless I'm missing something - didn't you install the new cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 A 3 to 5mm play on the pedal seems right unless I'm missing something - didn't you install the new cylinder? Yes I did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Did you get the new parts locally. May be you have a bad part. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 Did you get the new parts locally. May be you have a bad part. Got local but when holding the slave in with a socket and the bleed screw closed the pedal is hard but when it’s installed again I have a soft feeling clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I was reluctant to post this since I don't fully understand clutch operation, but I came across this on another forum. The heating and expansion does make some sense as to why things would change when cold vs warm, but it's over my head. "The problem IS In fact due to not enough free play at the top of the pedal due to improper adjustment. The pushrod needs to FULLY retract to allow fluid to return to the reservoir. If fluid cannot return then the fluid will expand as it heats and push on the slave more raising the engagent point..." http://forums.nicoclub.com/clutch-engagement-point-moves-up-as-car-warms-t361456.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I'm at a loss for why your still having an issue... Is the hose in good shape, not bulging under load... You know what your doing. It's not like your new to this. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 The hose does not look like it but I have a new one.. I did bench bleed the CMC.. however my new slave came today and I think I got the wrong one? the last one I have (well on the car now) which I ordered back in Dec of 2015 but installed last year is the Exedy SC921the one I got today is the Exedy SC919 I can't tell what the difference is between the two of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 finally got the clutch firm my wife came to check on me and even I had a speed bleeder in I noticed with her pumping I was getting a lot of foam but I kept going and finally I felt it getting a bit firmer.. Then finally it's firm feels better then when I had the old setup. replaced the rubber hose and slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 So now you are good, otherwise my next step would have been to separate engine and gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 so you don't feel bad: my clutch was actually the opposite, was soft when warm. go to replace it( slave and master) and the bleeding took 20 in to a half hour by myself until help showed up and streamlined the process. but seriously an Oh shit situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 So now you are good, otherwise my next step would have been to separate engine and gearbox. I checked with my bore scope yesterday the fork is fine. trust me I had to drive to go to Autozone to get a new hydraulic hose man It sucks ass if you have to back up.. or let alone get into 1st.. I could feel the clutch grabbing just moving my foot 1mm upwards I was thinking like why is my car not rolling backwards.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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