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What did you do to your Outback today? V3


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Happened to me on on the 90's Dodge. Would depend on the ambient temps if it would start. Replaced the battery and no issues after. Same relay clicking noise if it didn't.

 

How many miles on the alternator?

 

Are you watching the voltage with the AP?

 

Had the same Gold battery sitting for two years when rebuilding the motor. Charged it for a few days before starting and worked like a champ. Changed it for safety sake.

 

Just recently replaced the alternator at 210K. No warning just dash lights flipping out right down the block from the house, limp mode, airbag, the works. Luckily was able to limp back to the house and go buy a re man unit in short order.

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So, finally got the codes. First is from the engine and second from the 5EAT. I suppose it's a matter of some transmission sensor. They appear after driving over rought bumps.

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/vz781w.jpg

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Paid the shop to put it back together.

 

Hey you're still here? I thought you got rid of the car and was just driving the bmw.

 

So, finally got the codes. First is from the engine and second from the 5EAT. I suppose it's a matter of some transmission sensor. They appear after driving over rought bumps.

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/vz781w.jpg

 

loose wires connection somewhere?

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Drove the OBXT yesterday instead of the usual DD. Ran great until I filled it up, then had a rough idle for about ten minutes. Drove it home, parked it, started it again today. Idle is normal... Hoping this isn't the prelude to something big.
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Welcome Brabs. Reminds me to get another inlet on the shelf before this one goes sideways.

 

Thanks! I have been lurking on the site for a little over 2 years now. Finally decided to add to this thread. Replaced my oem uppipe that I decatted about 2 years ago with a grimmspeed uppipe this morning.

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Yeah, it started leaking from the plastic/metal seam. Koyo dropped right in and is doing great! The exhaust is a generic Amazon exhaust for $300. My thought is to get something that I could use as a basis to change mufflers/resonators/tips on. It's not too bad. It's relatively quiet, but it drones at around 2700-3200. Btu the drone was the least of my worries, as the roadtrip didn't go so well...

 

I was going from Los Angeles to New Mexico, so it was a roughly 800 mile drive each way. At some point, I sprung a leak on the right side of the motor, and it was leaking oil on the header/uppipe. I didn't discover the leak until I got to NM. I didn't drive it for the week while I was there, but on the ride home, the leak got worse and worse, to the point of me adding a quart of oil every 15 miles. It was a very stressful drive home, sitting in Thanksgiving weekend traffic. But we made it, and I have the parts to replace the valve cover gaskets, and we'll go from there. Hopefully that's it.

 

PM'ing you about meeting up in LA somewhere!

 

 

Follow up on this: it's the turbo/AVCS hard line. I don't know how I broke it, but it's spewing oil everywhere. Ordered a braided line from IAG, hopefully, I don't have to take the intake manifold off to install it.

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Hey you're still here? I thought you got rid of the car and was just driving the bmw.

 

 

 

loose wires connection somewhere?

 

 

 

Yeah I’m still around :lol:. I sold the BMW and bought a Tacoma. I have been lurking from time to time and will probably insert my presence now that the OBXT is being put back together. ;)

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Yeah I’m still around :lol:. I sold the BMW and bought a Tacoma. I have been lurking from time to time and will probably insert my presence now that the OBXT is being put back together. ;)

 

Okay, so why sedan to truck? And what did the shop finish up for you?

 

I've been going to my shop more often lately. Don't got time, time better spent with family, don't want to do hours of research for a one time job. Pretty sure I'll drop off the OB with them when the flex fuel kit arrives. I was going to replace the new fuel pump myself, since I've done it before, but even that I'm thinking I'll even leave that to them. Lucky for me they pretty much just work on Subies and Evos, so got a one stop shop.

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Okay, so why sedan to truck? And what did the shop finish up for you?

 

I've been going to my shop more often lately. Don't got time, time better spent with family, don't want to do hours of research for a one time job. Pretty sure I'll drop off the OB with them when the flex fuel kit arrives. I was going to replace the new fuel pump myself, since I've done it before, but even that I'm thinking I'll even leave that to them. Lucky for me they pretty much just work on Subies and Evos, so got a one stop shop.

 

 

 

The BMW was a wagon, I’m a creature of habit. Wagons and tacos lol. The only vehicle I regret selling was my 2nd gen Tacoma. I have been keeping an eye on the taco market for years, a really nice 2017 dcsb offroad came up for sale locally so I jumped on it.

 

As for the shop... the car blew a head gasket. Upon further inspection, they found a few other little problems. So 14mm headstuds ( these were supposed to be used on the first go around), ss o-rings, copper hg and new wires/harness from the firewall forward. I may be forgetting something’s lol.

 

 

I don’t mind doing some work myself, but feel like my time is better spent with the kiddos. Plus the truck has a warranty ;).

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Follow up on this: it's the turbo/AVCS hard line. I don't know how I broke it' date=' but it's spewing oil everywhere. Ordered a braided line from IAG, hopefully, I don't have to take the intake manifold off to install it.[/quote']

 

 

STR there is a TSB on this for the 08s

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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It's in here if you haven't seen it already.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%2520ID%2520Chart_Public.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiYksrB-5HfAhV4IzQIHSeiA3UQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3C_C9vtK-aC_CpyTFE-n7a

 

It looks like it's a "better" 6mt, but it used an r160 stock. 3.9fd

 

If it holds up to all the shit they do with supergramps it must be as good as any other real 6mt. Although I know he has broken at least one axle launching.

Edited by Rhitter
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The Legacy spec.B 6MT is essentially the same as the STI 6MT, minus the gearing change and DCCD missing.

 

It's not like the later 5th gen Outback/Legacy/WRX 6MT that is actually a "5+1MT" or "5.9MT" that is just as weak as the normal 5MT with an extra gear.

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R160 is the rear diff. The r160 is what you already have in your car. The 6mt one is probably exactly the same, just a different final drive.

 

Pretty sure my r160 even has an lsd.

 

Unsure if any of your cars have it. It might be a cold weather package addition.

 

The r180s are significantly more robust and require axles that cost $700 each and are basically impossible to find used. If you are drag racing / endurance road racing the r180s make a lot of sense.

 

At our power levels, probably not so much.

Edited by Rhitter
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On my mind lately, the unevenness of the rear wheel is starting to bother me a lot. Vaguely thinking through what it would take to center it.

R9Nidpo.jpg

 

Replacing them will align the rear trailing arm closer to the body, but no clue what effect that will have on the wheel spacing.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6579.jpg

 

Dead.Mr custom made rear trailing arm brackets to get the rear wheel to line up right. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4704647&postcount=6

 

trying to figure out, but mentally not having any luck with the changes, if just moving to a LGT rear trailing arm would have the same effect.

 

It looks like a bitch of an install.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-without-removing-knuckles-270233.html

 

This is the only thread I can find referencing that changing out the Rear trailing arm brackets will center the wheel (sort of makes sense, going to legacy height, use a legacy part)

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4973653&postcount=196

 

And then me parroting that at the end of that thread. But, n actual pictures showing the change.

 

The parts are cheap enough. The time required to do it....not so much.

Edited by Rhitter
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I think that's part of the reason why people spring for the Spec B aluminum parts. If it's a longer arm, it will have a different range of travel than a shorter arm mounted rearwards. But then I'm not sure what you'd have to do about the parking brake/hub/spindle/axle stuff. Maybe nothing, maybe you'll need a Spec B-length rear axle, but with R160 splines... No idea at that point. I started to look into all that, but it's a rabbit hole and I just decided to deal with the offset rear tire.
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