DementedGT Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Ok so back story is I have a 05 GT, with 196,000mi on possibly the stock clutch. The clutch has finally given up and slips with boost in 3rd and up. So I ordered an Exedy clutch kit with smfw, new pilot bearing and throw out bearing. I have a catless up-pipe sitting here as well as some fresh gear lube. Im wondering what else i should acquire or do while the trans is out. I contemplated new trans mount, shifter bushings but not sure what is the best plan. Any help from guys that have pulled the trans would be awesome. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 I'm in the middle of this job and seeing as you also have an '05, in Ohio, I suspect that your fasteners are rusted as hell. Be prepared to go to war with the bottom nut connecting your turbo and downpipe - it's a very tight space and hopefully you won't have to cut it out. Even if you don't, it will be a good idea to replace those nuts with new ones. If you do cut it out then you will also need a new stud. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 There’s plenty of nice upgrades, some discretionary. Eg lwfw, arp fw bolts, braided clutch line, tsk, STS, upgrade fluid, new oem or billet fork, pitch stop & related hard to get at linkages and bushes, blast plates, act mono lock... come to mind... Reverse and neutral switches may be worth replacing too, and/or shave a thou or two from the washer... If you’re really picky, the clutch and fw assy can be precision balanced (assuming there’s any doubt about it as-is)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DementedGT Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 There’s plenty of nice upgrades, some discretionary. Eg lwfw, arp fw bolts, braided clutch line, tsk, STS, upgrade fluid, new oem or billet fork, pitch stop & related hard to get at linkages and bushes, blast plates, act mono lock... come to mind... Reverse and neutral switches may be worth replacing too, and/or shave a thou or two from the washer... If you’re really picky, the clutch and fw assy can be precision balanced (assuming there’s any doubt about it as-is)... I opted for a standard weight flywheel, but never thought about a braided line. I would imagine that makes clutch feel and engagement nicer. I apologize for my subbie tech ignorance but wth is tsk and sts? lol! Also what is this about the reverse and neutral switches. Are they tempermental? how do you feel about motor and trans mounts. worth the upgrade now or just as easy to do later. I just dont want to have to pull the trans again anytime soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DementedGT Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 I'm in the middle of this job and seeing as you also have an '05, in Ohio, I suspect that your fasteners are rusted as hell. Be prepared to go to war with the bottom nut connecting your turbo and downpipe - it's a very tight space and hopefully you won't have to cut it out. Even if you don't, it will be a good idea to replace those nuts with new ones. If you do cut it out then you will also need a new stud. I think i have lucked out in that aspect. This thing is CLEAN! hardly a spec of rust or rusty bolts anywhere. everything that i have worked on already, as in all the suspension, came apart with ease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Some members are leading you down a slippery slope. Keep it simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 This is the TSK throw out bearing - someone may have one for sale in the classifieds. If your throw out bearing is causing you problems replace it with this beefier one. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 A tsk3 is not beefier. It is the exact same bearing. A spring has been added to the back of the bearing in order to attempt to keep the body more perpendicular as the bearing wears. The center bore is larger to accept the stainless sleeve that goes over the snout. Honestly, if your snout is not damaged dont use one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I have brand new tsk3 sleeve that my mechanic decided it was not necessary when installing my ACT HD and fw combo. Also might sell you my remanufactured southbend stage 3 daily clutch and fw set. PM sent. Also have a new stainless braided clutch line I bought for this whole clutch job but again my mechanic didn't install it. Lmk if you're interested. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DementedGT Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Well today the TOB starting making some noise when the clutch is out so i think im moving my install time table up sooner than anticipated. I know i already need one new Axle seal so i going to replace those. Ill just wait to do the rest another time. I was more looking for items that should be done while the trans it out of the car. This will be my first subaru trans removal. Ive done a CRX, couple chevy trucks, and my mustang a million times lol. This one has me a bit overwhelmed but im sure itll go smooth 'knock on wood' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 You dont have to take the trans all the way out of the car. You can do a clutch without removing the axles too. I am not referring to pulling the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DementedGT Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 You dont have to take the trans all the way out of the car. You can do a clutch without removing the axles too. I am not referring to pulling the engine. can you also remove the flywheel this way? any pointers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Yes. You need about 6 inches of space to work. Driveshaft and down pipe out. Release the shift linkages, disconnect wiring, etc. Pull the tranny back and rest it on the edge of the cradle/crossmember. Do your work and slam her home. I can start a clutch at 9am and be done by noon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DementedGT Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 Yes. You need about 6 inches of space to work. Driveshaft and down pipe out. Release the shift linkages, disconnect wiring, etc. Pull the tranny back and rest it on the edge of the cradle/crossmember. Do your work and slam her home. I can start a clutch at 9am and be done by noon. Ill buy you beer and food and you can just come guide me through lol.. Sounds easy enough. Im pretty confident in my abilities, just nice to be prepared and get tips from the pros!. Thanks sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 Its all about the angle of the engine and trans for removal/installation. Lift the front of the engine (jack and a block of wood under either the cross pipe or oil pan) and use a 22mm socket to turn the crank pulley (by the bolt) if there is any resistance to the splines lining up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DementedGT Posted September 4, 2018 Author Share Posted September 4, 2018 Huge thank you to m sprank!! Knocked out the clutch without issue! Your tip made it a smooth install! I also did shifter bushings and a catless up pipe. I would like to pick your brains. Car runs and shifts perfect but I now have this odd rubbing noise when making any type of left turn. Even when taking a long turn on the highway. It's almost non existent when cold. I initially thought it may be the exhaust rubbing the driveshaft but doesn't make sense it would only occur during left turn. It's more audible towards the front door. I've looked everywhere and nothing looks out off place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Without hearing it myself you got me there. Best advice is get it in the air, rotate the tires best you can at the proper angle to replicate the noise and look for any sign of missing paint/shiny metal/rub spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d22597 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Yes. You need about 6 inches of space to work. Driveshaft and down pipe out. Release the shift linkages, disconnect wiring, etc. Pull the tranny back and rest it on the edge of the cradle/crossmember. Do your work and slam her home. I can start a clutch at 9am and be done by noon. Can you do this on a WRX too? Or just on legacy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Yes. Works on almost all. Cant comfirm SVX or Brat. Brz is so light you can just toss it aside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.