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Clutch Shudder after replacement, master/slave?


rizzors25

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Hey guys,

 

Had to install a new clutch/flywheel recently in my LGT. Got a really good deal on a Competition stage 2 with lightweight flywheel.

 

Often in 1st gear the car kind of shudders when I start from a stop. And then in 2nd gear, it's just not possible to get a smooth drive off the line.

 

I'm in probably 1k-1500 miles at this point, so well broken in I'd say. I'd like to think I did a good job breaking it in, it's just my DD so it's not often abused

 

A friend mentioned the legacy might have a shorter throw clutch master/slave than the WRX/STI and maybe I'm just not getting enough disengagement? Is there any merit to that?

 

Probably doesn't help but I went ahead and installed a (I think Torque Solution) Poly transmission mount while I was under there

 

Any thoughts? I was worried maybe I installed the new throw-out bearing wrong or something...

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Its the lwfw. You gave up mass and inertia. 2nd gear starts are not recommended. The judder is inconsistent slip between the clutch and fw. This is a bad choice in set up for most dd or cars that see heavy traffic.

 

The lwfw allows quicker up shifts and easier rev matching. Conditions good for track. But, you give up drivability as a race car rarely has to stop and start again on track.

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FWIW, I've found that every now and then my Spec 2+ will do that. At the next stop, I push in the clutch, put tranny in neutral, side step the clutch pedal letting it bang to the top of its travel. After that the clutch is fine.

 

I find that only happens if I baby it to much. I also remember the stock clutch would need that if it was damp and rainy sometimes.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Its the lwfw. You gave up mass and inertia. 2nd gear starts are not recommended. The judder is inconsistent slip between the clutch and fw. This is a bad choice in set up for most dd or cars that see heavy traffic.

 

The lwfw allows quicker up shifts and easier rev matching. Conditions good for track. But, you give up drivability as a race car rarely has to stop and start again on track.

 

Would moving to a heavier crank pulley help?

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A LWCP will make the issue worse. It will also move all the vibration to your crank bearings. I highly recommend a stock or Fluidampr pulley when using a LWFW. Heck, I use a Fluidampr on my Subie with a stock FW.
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