Turbine_junkie Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 UPDATE for anyone interested, I am redoing heads on this car. click link, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-lgt-wagon-engine-overhaul-noob-experience-275803.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 The line the regulator is on is return to the tank. Measure after the regulator. Looking for 43psi with no reference to vacuum. -1psi of fuel for each psi of vacuum, +1psi of fuel for each psi of boost. If fuel pressure is good, might as well swap an injector to see if the misfire moves with the injector. Gives you a chance to check the electrical connectors too. My fuel pressure was measuring 40psi just priming the fuel pump by running the key forward. After start up, at idle, my 05 LGT was running 45psi and I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4 with a strong fuel smell. Possibly that #4 injector taking the additional pressure and a bad FPR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine_junkie Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 My fuel pressure was measuring 40psi just priming the fuel pump by running the key forward. After start up, at idle, my 05 LGT was running 45psi and I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4 with a strong fuel smell. Possibly that #4 injector taking the additional pressure and a bad FPR? Just an FYI..I did all sorts of diagnostics before deciding to pull engine. Fuel pressure was one of the tests. Mine was within specs both with and without vacuum hose connected. I ruled that one out also because mine was focused on cylinder 2 specifically. Either ways, my theory is that the injector was not the best on cylinder 2 and caused issues with burnt valves slowly. I have sent them to witch hunter performance for a flow test and cleaning. We will know soon and I will update this thread. I DONT want to do this whole thing again..:spin::spin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 Just an FYI..I did all sorts of diagnostics before deciding to pull engine. Fuel pressure was one of the tests. Mine was within specs both with and without vacuum hose connected. I ruled that one out also because mine was focused on cylinder 2 specifically. Either ways, my theory is that the injector was not the best on cylinder 2 and caused issues with burnt valves slowly. I have sent them to witch hunter performance for a flow test and cleaning. We will know soon and I will update this thread. I DONT want to do this whole thing again..:spin::spin: Turns out, I'm an idiot. At some point I connected the vacuum line from the blue T to my intake manifold and had my recirculation valve and FPR connected to each other. This seems to have fixed my fuel pressure and fixed my cylinder 1 issues. However I still had a cylinder 4 misfire. I confirmed roughness in all other cylinders gone with my accessport. Just pulled my injectors 2/4 and ran some cleaner through them and soaked them. It appears I have what looks like metal flakes in my soaking solution . Going to put them back in tomorrow and see how it goes. I do have some random coil packs on right now that are less than reputable so if the injectors don't fix it, those are next. Boroscope on order and hopefully I can check out my valves without pulling the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine_junkie Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 Turns out, I'm an idiot. At some point I connected the vacuum line from the blue T to my intake manifold and had my recirculation valve and FPR connected to each other. This seems to have fixed my fuel pressure and fixed my cylinder 1 issues. However I still had a cylinder 4 misfire. I confirmed roughness in all other cylinders gone with my accessport. Just pulled my injectors 2/4 and ran some cleaner through them and soaked them. It appears I have what looks like metal flakes in my soaking solution . Going to put them back in tomorrow and see how it goes. I do have some random coil packs on right now that are less than reputable so if the injectors don't fix it, those are next. Boroscope on order and hopefully I can check out my valves without pulling the motor. Good deal !. Thanks for the update and keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Sorry for the delay. I somehow managed to misplace the rings that hold the injectors into the fuel rail so I had to wait for Subaru to get them shipped in over the holiday weekend. I put the injectors back in, I swapped 2 and 4 just for good measure. Still have roughness in cylinder 4. Still getting a pretty strong fuel smell. Coil pack is next. Here's to hoping it's not a burnt valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Sweet baby jesus! Pulled the coil packs and plugs. Gave my cylinder a colonoscopy, looked good. Ran some resistance tests between the pins on my coil pack and compared it to some old coil packs I had. No resistance across the 2 and 3 pin when from what my old coil packs tell me, there should be. Gonna order a new one and I'll update when its in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 This is the last I'll kick this thread, I promise. Replaced the coil pack. Back to running smooth. Just a side note. I haven't found the schematics for the coil packs but I set my multimeter to Ohms and put the positive on the middle pin and had resistance on the top and bottom pins with the negative. Not sure how scientific it is. But as I was going through my old coils that I had replaced for poor performance, I found 1/4 was also lacking resistance on one of the pins. Might be an easy way for anyone else to rule out coil packs without having to pull multiple cylinders to switch them around, put everything back together, only to find the coil pack is indeed bad, and take everything back apart again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine_junkie Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 This is the last I'll kick this thread, I promise. Replaced the coil pack. Back to running smooth. Just a side note. I haven't found the schematics for the coil packs but I set my multimeter to Ohms and put the positive on the middle pin and had resistance on the top and bottom pins with the negative. Not sure how scientific it is. But as I was going through my old coils that I had replaced for poor performance, I found 1/4 was also lacking resistance on one of the pins. Might be an easy way for anyone else to rule out coil packs without having to pull multiple cylinders to switch them around, put everything back together, only to find the coil pack is indeed bad, and take everything back apart again. U lucky u..happy for ur result. My heads were pulled apart last week. Confirmed that valve is cracked on my # 2 If you have the FSM, it states what the resistance should be for various ignition components. Page EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-65. Mines a turbo thats why DOTC, you can just choose corresponding page for your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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