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2018 STi TYPE RA Short Block utilization


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I am in need of having to put a motor in my car, and have seen some traffic regarding the use of a TYPE RA Short Block being used ILO the stock block on the 4th GEN's. I wondering if, when they become available for delivery, can I just assemble the motor with the stock LGT heads and components (vice the oil pump, that'll be upgraded), and will I have a problem mounting it in the LGT D2 the unique mounting arrangement? And any other information would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

If this has already been addressed, please point me in that direction.

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It’s looking like I’m going to get a short block locally. Going to do stock rotating assy with upgraded pistons and King XPG bearings, and leaning toward having them coated. Then refreshing the heads, ARP studs, and moving on with my life.

 

Has anyone found an aftermarket, upgraded windage tray for these motors? And should I decide to slap STi exhaust cams in it would I have to get it tuned?

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I'm in the process of building up an IAG stage 1 short block (forged pistons, upgraded bearings, balanced/blueprinted) for my LGT, along with ARP head studs and STI cams in my original heads, which I had rebuilt.

 

The LGT uses a different upper oil pan, as mentioned earlier. However, I was surprised to discover that two of the four forward mounting holes don't line up, and the block casting is slightly different to account for those hole locations. Also, other models use m6 bolts to mount the oil pan; ours has four m8 bolts at the front, I'm assuming for the engine mount load path. I had to drill and tap two holes in my shiny new block. :-( I filled the two unused holes with JB weld to minimize stress risers.

 

There's not enough metal to tap all four for m8 bolts. I tapped two mounting holes for m8 and actually used studs instead of bolts, installed with red loctite. Unfortunately I had to use m6 bolts for the other two locations. In the end, I'm comfortable with the load path but imagine I could have problems with a really stiff or solid front engine mount.

 

Hope that made sense. Just a heads up for others who try to use a non-LGT block. I'm sure this has been mentioned elsewhere, but I didn't see it.

 

 

 

Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk

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Thank you for the significantly helpful information. I hope that isn’t the case for the short block I ordered, but let’s me know what I may have to deal with when it arrives. I greatly appreciate this
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Thank you for the significantly helpful information. I hope that isn’t the case for the short block I ordered, but let’s me know what I may have to deal with when it arrives. I greatly appreciate this
If you ordered anything other than the block for a fifth gen that is what you will be dealing with. Our engine is unique.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Not exactly sure what I ordered, other than it’s a reman short block with improved slugs and King XPG bearings. Most likely going to be doing some drilling and tapping. Better get them rounded up, I guess.

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If you ordered anything other than the block for a fifth gen that is what you will be dealing with. Our engine is unique.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I selected the 5th gen option when I ordered the block; maybe they sent the wrong one. I was too far into the job by the time I realized the problem. Live and learn.

 

Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk

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I selected the 5th gen option when I ordered the block; maybe they sent the wrong one. I was too far into the job by the time I realized the problem. Live and learn.

 

Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk

 

Have you installed your motor yet? Do you recall approximately how long the studs were that you used? And have you come across any other fitment issues? The guy building the motor is wanting me to send my motor in to get built rather then he send a ready to go EJ255. I know it’s the best route to take to keep costs down, but time is a factor on my end.

Edited by Irishguy64
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You would have had to order the shortblock from Subaru, otherwise an ej255 is an ej255 to the subaru world.

 

Okay, that makes me feel a little better.

 

Have you installed your motor yet? Do you recall approximately how long the studs were that you used? And have you come across any other fitment issues? The guy building the motor is wanting me to send my motor in to get built rather then he send a ready to go EJ255. I know it’s the best route to take to keep costs down, but time is a factor on my end.

 

I have not installed the motor, but everything else has been exactly the same as my stock block. I don't have the length of the studs. That said, I just went out to my shop and removed the engine mount bracket to take a picture of the bolts and studs:

 

IMG_20180713_165640.jpg

 

Hope that helps.

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  • 1 month later...
Jmaddocks - if you haven’t learned already... there are a couple other things to keep an eye on. I just ran into a small hiccup. Make very well sure you silicone the hell out of the upper oil pan around the internal bolt. It doesn’t exactly mate up perfectly and I painfully discovered an oh-so-significant oil leak. And there is no bung for the Oil level switch wires to secure to the block, away from the exhaust. I am in the process of making a mounting tab for it. Will try and post pics of what I’m talking about in the near future
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Jmaddocks - if you haven’t learned already... there are a couple other things to keep an eye on. I just ran into a small hiccup. Make very well sure you silicone the hell out of the upper oil pan around the internal bolt. It doesn’t exactly mate up perfectly and I painfully discovered an oh-so-significant oil leak. And there is no bung for the Oil level switch wires to secure to the block, away from the exhaust. I am in the process of making a mounting tab for it. Will try and post pics of what I’m talking about in the near future

 

Thanks!! My project got delayed due to travel and other projects, so I'm just getting around to putting the engine in the car (got delayed last weekend because I had accidentally ordered SOHC cam bolts).

 

I noted the lack of a bung for the oil level switch wires -- good to hear I'm not going crazy.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the upper oil pan. I'll take a look at that. Not looking forward to disassembling, cleaning, and resealing everything, but it's obviously a lot better doing that on the engine stand.

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^thanks for updating, interesting to see documentation on this since any of us 5th gen owners may end up in this situation someday.

 

It seems from your post you got it buttoned up and running already?

 

 

It's in and running(ish). Damn thing died on me on the freeway yesterday and left me stuck on the side of the 101 for 30 minutes. Would start, run for 2 seconds then die out. Then decided to start and stay running so I got it home and now its doing the same thing, but in my driveway at least.

 

 

Thanks!! My project got delayed due to travel and other projects, so I'm just getting around to putting the engine in the car (got delayed last weekend because I had accidentally ordered SOHC cam bolts).

 

I noted the lack of a bung for the oil level switch wires -- good to hear I'm not going crazy.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the upper oil pan. I'll take a look at that. Not looking forward to disassembling, cleaning, and resealing everything, but it's obviously a lot better doing that on the engine stand.

 

 

I feel ya completely on the struggles. My 3 week project turned into 2.5 months and I'm still fighting with it.

 

Took me about 3 hours of just staring at it to figure out why there was an extra christmas tree zip tie and why it was so close to the exhaust. Had to look at the original block to figure out what was missing.

 

It will be a lifetime easier on the stand than in the car. I ended up dropping the manifold and supporting the motor with the hoist in order to drop and reseal the pan. Tons and tons of four-lettered obscenities were dropped that day, needless to say.

 

Also, make sure you loosely mount the clutch inspection cover (the one on the bottom side) before stabbing it. I forgot mine and fought with the screws for 2 hours in order to install it after dropping the motor in. Led to many additional four-lettered obscenities and just as many hand cramps.

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  • 1 year later...
So an update on this bastard car... the car was dead for over a year. When I got it home after it died, the trouble tree led me to either a bad BIU or ECM. But needed factory scan tool to test. Towed it to one dealer and they put a BIU in it. That only made it worse. Then they told me that the engineers said I needed to replace the bulkhead harness in hopes that would fix it. So I told them to pound sand and I took it back home. There I chased a ghost throughout this thing for over a year (harness, BIU a second time, and ECM). Needless to say it was still a rolling boat anchor. So I took it to a different dealer where they messed with it for two months, and we’re finally able to get it running. All I gotta say is MAKE SURE ALL YOUR ENGINE GROUNDS ARE TIGHT AND THEN RECHECK THEM TWICE. It appears when I had to drop the exhaust for the oil leak, I forgot to tighten a ground on top of the driver side head. Because the car sat for so long the alternator forked out on me and the starter hangs up when it’s cold. Not to mention the oil pan that’s still leaking. And either a catalytic monitor going bad or catalytic converter that went bad (keeps throwing a P0420 and the car is unmolested save for the motor). Needless to say, I love Subaru’s but hate this one with a passion. Hope you all had/have better luck than I am with your LGT’s
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