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Passenger CV axle not fully seated help.


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My US 2008 legacy special edition 5 spd had a torn passenger inner cv axle boot and a bad lower ball joint. So I replaced it with an cv axle(Autozone's Duralast Gold) along with the lower ball joint (Raybesto's premium) and outer tie rod (O'Reilly's house brand). After all said and done, three days later on Memorial Day, I thought I had it finished. Today, after down shifting to third gear to overtake a slow vehicle, my vehicle started shaking. Something that has never happened before. After I got home, I checked both sides of the cv axles to compare, and the aftermarket Duralast Gold CV axle is out by about half a centimeter. Am I safe to ride to work and back? It's about 20 miles round trip, without my axle entirely falling out? And fix it afterwards? There's no transmission fluid coming out.
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I wouldn't risk it. Was the c-clip on the duralast shaft before you installed it? Sometimes it takes a few taps with a hammer (watch the threads) to get the shaft seated properly. There is an audible difference between a fully seated and not fully seated shaft. Fully seated is a deeper and more solid sounding tone.
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Remove the wheel, put the floor jack under the LCA and jack up the suspension till the axle is horizontal. Then place a piece of 2x4 over the end of the axle, hit that 2x4 of at least a 5lb hammer to seat the axle.

 

You may want to back off the axle nut about 1/2" too before you seat the axle.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Spec B; yes, it was on and when I installed it. I didn't use a hammer to seat it, just brute force bare hands smashed it in, I felt it go in. I guess just not all the way in.

 

Also, thank you, Max. Sounds too simple, I hope I don't have to remove or loosen anything else. I'm gonna be safe and remove the nut completely so I won't smash any threads.

 

I made it safe to work without reworking it.

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I'm gonna be safe and remove the nut completely so I won't smash any threads.

 

Yes, do that. Then with a punch in the indentation in the center of the axle tip, you can hit it hard with a hammer and not risk damaging any threads. A comfortable tap with a big hammer (3lb engineer's hammer is perfect) will get better results than pounding on it hard with a carpentry hammer.

 

Consider replacing the axle nut.

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Checked everything out and even got an alignment. It was fully seated and no tyranny fluid loss. I believe I have a faulty cv axle. Also to note is that both cv cups were hot. It never vibrated from a down shift. Any ideas if a warranty exchange or a reboot of the old one is the way to go?
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Checked everything out and even got an alignment. It was fully seated and no tyranny fluid loss. I believe I have a faulty cv axle. Also to note is that both cv cups were hot. It never vibrated from a down shift. Any ideas if a warranty exchange or a reboot of the old one is the way to go?
I once had this happen. Bad vibration from a new axle. Store didn't believe me until I showed a video of me under the car moving the like a damn shake weight.

 

Check if the shaft moves laterally while seated and installed. It should not.

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We have said the best option is to reboot the OEM axles. Any rebuilt axle from a auto parts store is a crap shoot.

 

There are a few places in JmP's thread, a sticky up top with places to but axles from.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I think it's fixed. Vibrations didn't happen at all on my way to work today. It would vibrate under heavy acceleration on a downshift. It's not happening anymore. The ride is a little rough but I think that's the tire correcting from the alignment. That'll smooth out. Thanks folks!
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