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What Did You Do To Your 6th Gen Today Thread - Vol 3


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Yeah I'm going wider too so I'm excited to see how much extra grip I get.

 

Track day yesterday was successful. It was very warm...I was monitoring cvt temps and skipping sessions to try to keep it cool. The pic is from the end of the last run....about 80 degrees over normal operating range. I'll have to add a CVT cooler for next year. Only cut power on me once, but it's also my daily so....drain and fill and a cooler next year!30b0b5c5b27b7467858bc9718e3d1b41.jpg

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Prior to draining oil level was very close to bottom dot.

 

Not terrible. It reminds me that I should check my oil a little more frequently. I'm lucky that I don't need to add between intervals, but it's always down max half a quart. That could change.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Not terrible. It reminds me that I should check my oil a little more frequently. I'm lucky that I don't need to add between intervals, but it's always down max half a quart. That could change.
I usually go to the dealer to change my oil at 5k intervals and I notice around the 4k miles I'm almost a quart low. Been that way since I bought it new.. I'm a 20 year Subaru owner so I know to check the oil now and then..

 

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I usually go to the dealer to change my oil at 5k intervals and I notice around the 4k miles I'm almost a quart low. Been that way since I bought it new.. I'm a 20 year Subaru owner so I know to check the oil now and then..

 

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Oddly enough, I've been VERY lucky with Subies and oil usage. My '06 WRX, '08 STI, and now our '14 FXT burn(ed) no perceptible amount. My second Subaru, a '97 LGT, exhibited a variable amount of consumption, from none to over a quart every 5k miles. As mentioned, my current '15 Legacy 2.5i burns less than half a quart in 6k+ miles.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Oddly enough, I've been VERY lucky with Subies and oil usage. My '06 WRX, '08 STI, and now our '14 FXT burn(ed) no perceptible amount. My second Subaru, a '97 LGT, exhibited a variable amount of consumption, from none to over a quart every 5k miles. As mentioned, my current '15 Legacy 2.5i burns less than half a quart in 6k+ miles.
That's very good to see that.. I'm actually taking mine to service next week for a Radiator change and Water Pump just because after my long road trip (3,865 miles roundtrip) in Hot Weather I broke my stock Radiator Cap and pieces are hopefully stuck in Radiator.. at 158k miles decided to change everything except the Timing Chain.. I bought 3 Tensioners, pump, seal and thermostat as well..

 

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What’s the rest of the story!? How far away from home were you when this happened? What did you end up using to replace the rad cap in the mean time?

 

I’ve never heard of a rad cap being ingested like that. That’s gnarly! I’d imagine there was a bit of a mess there, too.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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What’s the rest of the story!? How far away from home were you when this happened? What did you end up using to replace the rad cap in the mean time?

 

I’ve never heard of a rad cap being ingested like that. That’s gnarly! I’d imagine there was a bit of a mess there, too.

I was about 4.5hrs from home weather was over 85° most of the way home.. Temps were fine on the gauge and I was watching on my Steering Wheel and actual temp never went above 215 going up the grade, but the next day when I opened the hood I saw coolant splattter all over the driver side of the engine bay so I guess it was blowing coolant out from under the broken cap..20210607_171909.thumb.jpg.9ed85fc701c6544bf763b0c7936ca939.jpg

 

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I'm by no means a mechanic, but I've never even heard of a cap failing like that. Seems as if it would be exceedingly rare. Luck you, bud.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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I'm by no means a mechanic, but I've never even heard of a cap failing like that. Seems as if it would be exceedingly rare. Luck you, bud.
Actually my Independant Subie mechanic has had a few come through the shop with the same problem.. Who knows what causes it. High Mileage failed part who knows.. What sucks I can't get a nice cap because the 3.6 has a different cap than the 2.5.. I tried a STI Cap wouldn't fit..[emoji35]

 

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I’ve heard others mention the rad cap as a PM item, but I can’t recall the recommended periodicity. Maybe I’ll change both my Subies at 100k miles.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Changed oil, decided to change differential fluids. Got all the tools ready - at first attempt stripped rear filling bolt with 10mm hex. Decided not to do anything else with my car for a while....

 

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Changed oil, decided to change differential fluids. Got all the tools ready - at first attempt stripped rear filling bolt with 10mm hex. Decided not to do anything else with my car for a while....

 

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:lol: I know the feeling, been there :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
I was about 4.5hrs from home weather was over 85° most of the way home.. Temps were fine on the gauge and I was watching on my Steering Wheel and actual temp never went above 215 going up the grade, but the next day when I opened the hood I saw coolant splattter all over the driver side of the engine bay so I guess it was blowing coolant out from under the broken cap..[ATTACH]293058[/ATTACH]

 

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Just wanted to chime in, I had literally the exact same rad cap failure on my '12 3.6R a couple months back. Started blowing coolant and thus steaming while idling in a drive-thru.

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Added sound dampening and insulation over the past few days. This post (https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5572676&postcount=2) got me started. I used the same material under the rear seat and in the spare tire well and trunk bottom. But I wanted some insulation as my wife feels cold coming through the passenger door in very cold weather.

 

After looking around I found Second Skin Audio. They have a broad range of sound treatment material and some hydrophobic insulation. I tried their dampifier pro and 1" thick melamine foam (R4.16). They recommended 60%+ coverage of the damping material and 100% coverage of the foam. I was most impressed with the foam and their double-sided tape to hold it in place. The 16 sq ft I bought was enough for almost-complete coverage of all four doors.

 

The damping material was good, but I think the Lowes stuff recommended above would have been good enough for all that I did. I found some disparaging comments about it on line as it can drip in high temperatures. If you are concerned about that I suggest using SSA's non-pro material for the parts of the doors near the mechanisms.

 

I had the same result as the post that got me started: under the seat and trunk seemed to make the most difference. But there was a noticeable improvement from the inside-the-doors changes. The car is much quieter than before with mild wind noise and occasional tire noise on some surfaces. Also, the door speakers sound a bit better. Finally, the doors now close with a dead-sounding "thunk".

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I used siless 80mill damper on all four doors inside and front panels,tank area,almost all inside trunk and also over rear wheel wells and behind rear fenders/quarter panels,made the car much much quieter,was going to do the roof and rear deck but my daughter will be taking over the car soon
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Might be long but might benefit some 3.6r Owners.. Some of you might remember me posting about a busted radiator cap and how worried I was about the lost pieces. Well after getting all my parts I thought I needed plus getting some custom cerakoting done and powder coating I finally dropped it off at the shop last week for the following service/repair..

 

Miles 160k

 

Replaced the Following Parts

 

Radiator- Bought a Koyo

Thermostat- OEM Subaru

Water Pump - Gates

Timing Chains (3) - OEM Subaru

Hyd Tensioners (3) - OEM Subaru

Chain Guides (8) - OEM Subaru

Front Torque Mount - OEM Subaru

Idler Sprocket - OEM Subaru

Crank Sprocket - OEM Subaru

A/c Condenser O Rings (2)

 

These were the major parts that I replaced.. I wasn't expecting to replace the Chain Guides but unfortunately they were showing train track wear marks I'll post up a picture.. Also the Idler Sprocket, Crank Sprocket and Front Torque Mount were unexpected..

 

Since my A/c Condenser was removed they changed the O rings and Serviced my A/c System. I run my A/c quite a bit here in SoCal and never serviced it has been blowing cool air but was about 1/2lb low on Refrigerant So I think thats not bad for 6.5 years old..

 

Just wanted to share this information because you might think your car is running good but under the covers might have issues going on.. I don't drive my car hard only long distances and sometimes rough azz California Freeways thats probably why the Front Torque Mount Rubber fell out when they removed the mount..Car was running strong without any issues just got nervous with that busted radiator cap and the amount of miles I had plus all the driving I do going to car shows..

 

And speaking of Car Shows since all the work was getring done I decided to Cerakote my Timing Cover and Powder Coat the Timing Bolts.. The Cover and Bolts are New OEM parts I bought..

 

Thanks for Reading the Book I hope this helps out people here on the forum..20210928_173717.thumb.jpg.68c632ff1dcd78556e850512be6cd15a.jpg

 

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Yeah I'm going wider too so I'm excited to see how much extra grip I get.

 

Track day yesterday was successful. It was very warm...I was monitoring cvt temps and skipping sessions to try to keep it cool. The pic is from the end of the last run....about 80 degrees over normal operating range. I'll have to add a CVT cooler for next year. Only cut power on me once, but it's also my daily so....drain and fill and a cooler next year!30b0b5c5b27b7467858bc9718e3d1b41.jpg

 

Which app are you using to monitor? Is it compatible with a bluetooth ODBII scanner?

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It requires 2 apps in my case. The app I screenshotted was ActiveOBD. That's how it's labelled but might be under Subaru active obd in the play store.

 

Then you need an OBD2 scanner and app. In my case I'm using OBDlink. I forget if it's MX or LX but either way, you first connect to the OBDlink app to set up the OBD connector, then open ActiveOBD to do the monitoring. You can monitor a bunch of stuff with OBDlink, but NOT CVT temp, which is why you need Active OBD.

 

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The app I screenshotted was ActiveOBD.

...

Then you need an OBD2 scanner and app. In my case I'm using OBDlink. I forget if it's MX or LX ...

ActiveOBD is a good app.

 

The OBD-II adapter you want is the OBDLink LX (~$60), which is a top-quality OBD-to-Bluetooth adapter. You want to avoid the cheap, no-name Asian knock-offs, which may or may not work correctly. You definitely don't want to grant a cheap, low-quality device direct access to the CANBUS(es) in your Outback.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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