Humble Rumble's 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread

[Humble Rumble]

NOVEMBER 6, 2019

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4h1lC4gcLf/

 

Wangan SPL VM Levorg wheel installed in BM Legacy! Replaced my DAMD flat bottom wheel. VA/VM wheels can fit 12-14 BM/BR Legacy/Outback. Super love the look of this wheel and fits with the Wangan theme of my car, and I love that you can see the Wangan logo out the front window. The wheel is quite a bit lighter than the DAMD wheel too. It came with black paddle shifters , which I used in place of my silver ones, but weirdly enough, the purple wiring loom that came on the wheel wouldn’t function with my car, so I swapped in the green loom and thankfully everything works perfectly. I want to eventually find an STI airbag because I’m not quite happy with the fitment of the bottom trim piece, but it’s more than good enough for now!

 

[Humble Rumble]

MARCH 1, 2020

 

Hit 100k miles.

 

[Humble Rumble]

MAY 20, 2020

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAgk6eGAybz/

 

A purchase from a few months back. STI Pinstripe Set for Legacy BM/BR (Dark Grey). Part # ST91042EZ010 (there is a Silver version for darker cars that is EZ000). STI JDM Catalogue part specific for BM/BR. Comes with helpful cutouts to aid in installation. Show this post next time someone says “It ShOuLdN’t sAy STi oN iT iF iT’s NoT aN STI”

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

FEBRUARY 23, 2020

JULY 12, 2020

 

 

STI Pinstripe installed. Funny enough, I did the driver's side in March, ran out of light the day I was doing it, and took until July to do the passenger side lol. So if you notice, virtually all pictures of my car from between February and July 2020 are from the driver's side only. :laugh:

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

APRIL 7, 2020

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5956968&postcount=1859

 

Installed the Black JDM folding center console today. It came with the center-location parking brake switch, which I plan to use eventually, but I have nothing to wire it to at the moment, so I swapped back to my base model cup. Very happy with it, I like the black a lot and it looks really nice in the interior. The folding cover matches the door in the center dash as well, looks cohesive. And my Wangan cup mats finally fit.

 

[Humble Rumble]

APRIL 14TH, 2020

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5958600&postcount=1053

 

Scored some carbon hydro-dipped interior bits from a seller on Yahoo.jp auctions that seemed to be clearance-ing out a bunch of stuff. The prices on these range typically range from $80-$200 depending on the piece, but each of these pictures only cost me between $10-$20 each. I spent less $150 getting all of this here from Japan. And it's REALLY nice finish for hydro-dip, very glossy and good sheen. Sure, it's not real carbon, but for a fraction of the price to get something like this from Liberal, I'm happy with it all. Nice way to add some flavor to the interior.

 

Edited August 14, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

APRIL 14TH, 2020

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5958617&postcount=1884

 

Installed all my carbon hydro-dipped bits from Sideway. Very happy with the interior update, and still impressed by the finish on these for being hydro-dipped. Note: those AC vents are a NIGHTMARE to get out and then get apart to replace that piece (especially the passenger side, have to basically take the entire glove box section out). Either way, nice little afternoon project.

 

[GTEASER]

I sure hope that you've had a discussion with your insurance company about coverage at an agreed upon value for your car. Lots of money is going to go down the tubes and the invest will never be recovered in the event of a catastrophic loss.

[mikeydrives1]

Your car is a GREAT motivating factor with how i want to modify my own 12' 3.6R limited.

[Humble Rumble]

Updated some current pictures, and updated master parts list. I still have a lot of detail posts to make since last year, just had minimal free time to sit down and knock it out.

[Humble Rumble]

Trying to get back to catching up on the dated updates.

 

MARCH 6TH, 2020 THROUGH MAY 20TH, 2020

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5963518&postcount=1090

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5971119&postcount=2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAvBo00JMoa/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAvrEnHp9WR/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAxpkxPJVBt/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CA0gMXxJKl7/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CA060WepJ56/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CA6TT8uJIn7/

 

So, I'm going to condense a lot of information as best I can here. I had a very bad experience with Fitment Industries, trying to order a new set of wheels and tires. I ordered Kansei Tandems in 18x9 +35 5x100 on March 6th, was quoted a 4-6 week lead time due to back order. Checked up on the order every week or so, was re-assured that they were still coming. 8 weeks rolls around, I contact Kansei themselves, they state that specific fitment of Tandems were discontinued in March. Furious, I contact FI, and arrange for a different set of wheels, with a steep discount, and finally take delivery May 20th. A few months post mounting, I come to find that FI did NOT correctly balance the wheels (mount and balance is part of their lauded services when you buy a wheel & tire package) AND used the wrong kind of valve stems. Got it corrected at a local Discount tire, I will never buy from FI again after this experience.

 

I went with Konig Rennform in 18x9 +38, with Continental DWS 06 in 255/40/18, coated with Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armor. Because of the JDM Legacy tS front control arms I installed, my front offset is +10 more inset per side than standard, so I have to run 10mm spacers in the front only to keep my setup square. Went with H&R Extended studs and 10mm hubcentric spacers from FastWRX. Used Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Tool to install the studs, worked fantastically. Lastly, went with McGard Spline Drive Lugs & Locks.

 

The wheels are 19.17 lbs per wheel, which saved me a whopping 8 lbs per wheel over my 19" setup, and a bit more from slightly smaller tires. Although they were my first choice, these wheels really grew on me and I love the way they look, and they're great to drive on.

 

https://imgur.com/a/2zFTFKL

Edited August 23, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

May 30TH, 2020

 

Prova Convex Wide-Angle Room Mirror Installation

 

This one actually has its own thread for it, so I'm just going to quote post that thread here. The are 30 images related to this and this forum limits to 20 per post, so this will be split into two posts.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/prova-convex-wide-angle-room-mirror-usdm-legacy-bm-br-283014.html?t=283014

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBJAjxIJpBE/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBJCuGiJr-n/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBJEYP_J8IV/

 

Cross-posting from Facebook, so the formatting might be a touch off. Here is my complete installation of the Prova Wide-Angle Colored Convex Mirror Glass on my USDM Legacy. Have to split this into two parts due to the image-per-post limit.

 

Gigantic post warning: Info and install post for Prova Convex Colored Wide Room Mirror Glass for Legacy BL/BP/BM/BR/BN/BS, and the weirdness, information, and specifics I found in the process of installing one on my own BM.

 

Part #’s

90130IT0020 - Yellow

90130MG0021 - Blue

For Legacy BL/BP/BM/BR/BN/BS

prova.co.jp/products/mirrors/ksg9b60000000gau.html

 

I bought my glass from Rakuten, and both colors seem to be easy to find and obtain on eBay and Amazon now, just google the part numbers. This specific glass is currently still in production and not discontinued.

 

Firstly: the mirrors. This specific Prova glass is designed to fit on the JDM LEGACY NON-DIMMING FLIPTAB MIRROR *ONLY*. The 4th, 5th, and 6th gen JDM Legacy’s apparently all shared the identical non-dimming mirror. For the purpose of this post, I will be posting all information as relevant to a 5th gen BM, as that’s what I own. Important note: *ALL* versions of the USDM mirrors are different than the specific mirror that this glass was designed to fit. The JDM mirror glass is a different width/shape than the USDM glass, and the mirror itself mounts in an entirely different way and location. Essentially, to get the Legacy specific glass to fit, you’ll have to import the correct Legacy non-dimming mirror + mounting button, remove your USDM mirror, adhere and mount the JDM mount button, and finally install the JDM mirror with the Prova glass.

 

I’ll break the rest of the post down by images.

 

Image 1-2: My completed installation with full JDM non-dimming mirror transplant with Prova Blue Convex Glass.

 

Image 3: Prova Glass in package with the JDM mirror and mount button I imported. The OEM part #’s are 92021AG000 for the mount button and 92021AG001 for the mirror itself.

 

Image 4: Diagram from Prova’s website showing the dimensions of the glass in millimeters, as well as the chassis application.

 

Image 5-6: The Subaru OEM diagrams for USDM and JDM. You can see how different the shape/angle/mount style of the mirrors is between the two. USDM mounts on a double-articulating stem directly behind the mirror, underneath the shaded part of the window. JDM mounts on a single-articulating arm that mounts above the mirror and in the shaded part of the window, and the mirror itself is the only adjustable part. JDM also twists onto the mount button, where as the USDM slots down onto the mount and has a screw through it to hold it in place.

 

Image 7: Forward comparison between USDM auto-dimming mirror and JDM non-dimming mirror. The USDM mirror is wider but not as tall as the JDM mirror, and the plastic frame is much thicker.

 

Image 8: Face to face comparison of the size/shape of the USDM and JDM mirror.

 

Image 9: Showing the difference in shape between the USDM and JDM mounts. JDM is a circle while USDM is round oblong with a flat bottom. Note: the JDM mirror is shown here without the mount button installed.

 

Image 10: This is an image grabbed from a Japanese Legacy owner off Instagram (I do not recall the account name at this point) showing visually how the JDM mirror is mounted on Japanese Legacy’s. Note that it is within the shaded part of the window.

 

Image 11-13: Beginning the process of prepping my car for the mount button install. (Note: The first few steps can be skipped if you have a non-dimming USDM mirror. In that case, skip to removing the T20 screw). To begin, open the sunglasses compartment in the overhead unit, and remove the two screws upward facing screws inside. Carefully pry the overhead unit down and out. Unplug the large plug that connects to the overhead lights. Disconnect the smaller plug that connects to the mirror, and remove the plastic cover on the windshield that covers the wire going to the mirror. Remove the T20 torx screw in the mount base that holds the mirror to the window. Carefully slide the mirror up towards the top of the car until it’s free from the mount. Auto-dimming only: remove the other side of the plug from the back of the mirror. You CAN remove this plug from the car entirely if you really want to, but I personally just pulled it up into the opening behind the overhead unit and left it be. It seemed like I’d have to pull my headliner pretty far off to fully remove it. The mirror end of the plug is not visible from a normal riding position when pulled all the way in and can only be seen if you lean way forward and look at the top of the window.

 

Image 14-15: The JDM mount button 92021AG000 front and back. The smooth side goes against the window, the other side clicks into the JDM mirror arm.

 

Image 16-20: Installing the mount button. *THIS IS PROBABLY THE MOST DIFFICULT PART OF THE INSTALL*. The difficulty is not in the actual mounting, but in getting the orientation correct, and since you’re mounting the button pretty much permanently, you have basically once shot. To figure out the button orientation, I twisted the button into the base of the JDM mirror, and held it up to the glass, bit by bit angling and positioning the mirror where it would be comfortable to use while driving. *THIS IS ANNOYING TO DO*. I did this prior to mounting the button because moving the mirror around takes a decent amount of force, and I didn’t want to accidentally yank the mount off by adjusting it (I didn’t know just how strong the adhesive would hold at this point). Once I got the mirror where it would be comfortable to drive with, I made a mark on the top mirror base and the button where they would line up when installed, and also made a mark on the windshield right above where the button would go, just to get orientation right. I used Loctite Stik’n’Seal adhesive. Follow the instructions on the adhesive packaging. I applied some to the smooth side of the button and to the window just under my mark and pressed and held the button to the window for about 5 minutes. **BIG NOTE!** I ACTUALLY GOT THE ANGLE OF THE BUTTON A LITTLE BIT WRONG. When I was making my marks, the button wasn’t completely twisted into the base as far as it could be, so when I finally mounted my mirror, the mirror stem actually ended up not perfectly vertical, and is angled off to the left a little bit. The button would need to be rotated approximately another 5-10 degrees further counter-clockwise from where I have it to be perfect. However, the off angle of the arm is barely noticeable from either driver or passenger seat, and does not affect the functionality of the mirror in anyway. As long as you’re not off by 30 degrees or something, you’ll be fine. Nothing on my car is perfect, and this is good enough for me.

 

-END OF FIRST POST-

Edited August 14, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

MAY 30TH, 2020

 

Prova Mirror post part 2.

 

Image 21-22: Shows the mounted button and my temporarily re-installed factory mirror, sans the wire cover. **The adhesive on the button needs to sit for around 24 hours to fully cure, and not get too hot or cold, or be jolted too hard**. Thankfully it’s pretty easy for it to sit and cure without the weight of the mirror on it. I did the mounting in upper 70/lower 80 deg weather, and it got down to around 60 that night. I don’t have a garage, so this would be much easier in a garage. AGAIN, I GOT THE ANGLE OF THE BUTTON A LITTLE WRONG. IT NEEDS TO BE TURNED ABOUT 5-10 DEGREES FURTHER COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO HAVE THE MIRROR ARM BE PERFECTLY VERTICAL.

 

23-27: Mounting the Prova glass to the JDM mirror. I opted to remove the side adhesives and replace it with 3M VHB tape per recommendation of Edward Hamilton of the Top Shelf page on FB. I left the middle adhesive pad alone. Don’t know how well the original adhesive would’ve worked, but it’s definitely not going anywhere with the VHB. As the package tells you, BE GENTLE WHEN APPLYING. Do not press to hard on the glass or it will absolutely shatter. It’s freaking glass after all. I lined it up and pressed it very softly into place, then set it face down onto a thick microfiber towel to let the weight of the base act as pressure on the adhesive. **DO NOT BREAK OUT THE FACTORY GLASS FROM THE JDM MIRROR**. I actually imported another JDM mirror and tried smashing the glass, and doing so leaves absolutely no way to install the Prova glass as there’s nothing behind to mount it on. Just keep the factory glass in place.

 

Image 28: Final step. The following day, after you’re certain the mirror button adhesive has fully cured for 24 hours. simply twist your JDM mirror base carefully onto the button as far as it will go, and if you went through the hassle of adjusting everything earlier on, it should land right in your perfect view. I did not bother trying to remove the original USDM mount as it’s completely hidden behind the mirror, and I’d be worried about damaging the window. Plus, leaving it allows me to reverse this installation if I ever wanted to. The new mount also does not look out of place from the outside either since it’s up in the shaded area of the windshield. The method for install that I’ve detailed resulted in a very secure installation that does not rattle or vibrate, and is very nice and solid. I’m in love with the color. The expanded view angle does take a little bit to get used to, but truthfully after 10 minutes of driving, it felt normal to me. The wider view angle is AMAZING. I can literally shoulder check without turning around. The only downside is now I can see my own ugly mug at all times. �� The glare cutdown effect at night is very nice as well, I’ve never been satisfied with my auto-dimming mirror as it never seems to dim when I really need it. The Prova glass is great for that. Also, one of the hidden benefits of doing this install the way I did is that I was able to position the mirror a little higher up the windshield. I’m pretty tall at 6’3”, and one of my biggest gripes about this car is that the mirror has always been in my direct line of sight. This install allowed me the freedom to position the mirror a little higher up the windshield so now I can see perfectly across the full span of the front of my car. Win-win.

 

Image 29-30: There is one other BM owner who mounted Prova glass on a USDM non-dimming mirror. As you can see, the edge of the glass are not within the confines of the plastic rim. I am not bashing this install in anyway as it’s obviously way easier than what I did, but I personally did not feel comfortable with that much exposed edge of the glass, so I went with the JDM transplant. Pictures courtesy of Stephen Marques.

 

Tl;dr: You could just as easily do this transplant with any of the Impreza/Forester/other model mirrors, it’s just that the Legacy-specific Prova glass was the first piece I purchased, so I ended up down this rabbit hole.

[Humble Rumble]

JUNE 2ND, 2020

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBG-7KOptE0/

 

Removed my Avery Dennison gloss black roof wrap after 3.5 years. After living outside for the entire time since it was installed, the wrap had become really faded and gross looking, almost nearly looking burnt in some spots. It was one of the earliest things I did to my car, and it held up well, but it was time to go. Was nice to see the fresh, shiny silver again.

Edited August 14, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

JUNE 13TH & 14TH, 2020

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdl1aspdrl/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBgse8aJ-lq/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBijfZkp6p4/

 

Brought myself a Pittsburgh Automotive 2 Ton Aluminum Racing Floor Jack and a Haul-Master 24x36 Wheelie Cart. I'd been using an ancient mini-jack forever, and the parking lot for my place was ~250 feet from my door, so both items were very nice quality of life upgrades.

 

Landed a brand new Whiteline BSR49XZ 22mm Rear Sway Bar kit for $150, very solid deal. Replaced my 20mm STI bar with it. Added the lateral locks, skipped the additional braces for reasons that will be apparent in the following post. Installed on the softest setting to start with.

[Humble Rumble]

JUNE 18TH, 2020

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBtT65JpEDZ/

 

Finally installed the Cusco Rear Side Member Braces (687 492 RS) and Rear Sway Bar Reinforcement Braces (6A1 492 RL). These sway bar braces are listed for VA WRX/STI fitment and not for BM/BR fitment, but as you can see, they fit fine. These were used instead of the braces that came with the Whiteline kit. I opted for these because 1. they attach to an additional point over the Whiteline braces and 2. I bought them prior to buying the Whiteline bar lol. These completed the set of every Cusco chassis brace that’s available for this car (save for the Front Member braces that don’t fit the 3.6R unless you build the exhaust around them). The Rear Side Member (the one in front of the LCA) was far more difficult to do than the Front Side Member plates and Rear Member bar I did the year prior, mostly due to the difficulty in getting the LCA bolts out. Also replaced the LCA bolts with 10.9 stainless M12x80 bolts to hopefully keep everything nice in there for a while. The sway bar braces were pretty easy after that. Only caveat is that with the Rear Cusco bar installed, the top sway bar bushing mount screw is very tight up near the bar, so getting that tightened was the only annoyance with it. Doesn’t contact it though, just tight clearance. Along with the Whiteline Bar and locks installed recently, the rear end was really feelig well put together and really solid to drive. Very happy with the outcome, and love how it looks too.

Edited August 14, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

JUNE 19TH, 2020

 

Got my spark plugs changed by Six Star Motorsports in Schaumburg, IL. Mileage on car at time of service was 104,670 miles. NGK spark plugs. Also had a compression test done by them as well. Compression levels were as follows:

 

Cyl 1: 165

Cyl 2: 155

Cyl 3: 170

Cyl 4: 150

Cyl 5: 170

Cyl 6: 165

 

You'll notice that cylinders 2 & 4 are slightly down on compression. This was a bit worrisome, but I didn't really know what exactly to do about it at the time and wasn't really in too much of a financial situation to have my only vehicle have an engine teardown, so I did what any ADHD adult with a P(ad)HD in procrastination does: nothing. And as we'll see in future updates, it came back to bite me in the ass. Six Star recommended that I switch from 5w40 to 5w50 to band-aid the issue, so that's what I did, and put it to the back of my mind. Finally bearing my soul about the compression results because at the time and for a good while after it, I was embarrassed by the result and the fact that I did nothing about it.

 

I also picked up a Six Star branded battery tiedown because I love supporting my favorite shop and the guys are Six Star are fantastic people who do great work.

 

Edited August 14, 2021 by Humble Rumble

[Humble Rumble]

JULY 1ST, 2020

 

Drove 50 miles or so to Indiana to pick up a Perrin Steering Damper Lockdown for $40 because I'm always a hound for a deal. Installed new with an actual allen wrench instead of getting an allen key socket. What a f*cking pain in the ass (and fingers for that matter). Note of advice to anyone doing this mod: get a damn allen socket and a ratchet extension. Make your life easier.

[Humble Rumble]

JULY 3RD, 2020

 

Took some time to do as good of a detail as I could at the time without access to a garage and only a local pay-n-spray to utilize. Finished the entire car off with Karbon Quick Detail spray, which is a product I got turned onto through my wheel order from Fitment Industries, and was honestly the best thing to come out of that whole experience. The stuff does a great job shining up the car and makes water bead up nearly as good as a proper wax and seal, doubly so on a car that has certainly not had its paint properly cared for through the years (which mine hasn't). Very happy with this product and continue to use it to this day. Highly recommend it. Great for painted wheels too. Snapped some pictures of a job well done.

 

[Humble Rumble]

JULY 6TH, 2020

 

"THE INCIDENT"

 

One of the very worst days in my ownership of this car. Took my lunch from work at one of my favorite local spots, stopped at the branch of my bank in the same parking lot (not a branch I've ever used before mind you) to use the ATM, and, well, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

 

 

From where I sat in the car while at the ATM, the line of parking bollards immediately to my right were completely invisible to my line of site. The fact that there's no real parking lane aisles in this section of the lot (the bank branch is literally plunked right in the middle of the parking lot), paired with my unfamiliarity with the specific location, caused me to pull away from the ATM turning to the right, and, well, I drove completely over the last bollard, and broke my left axleback completely off at the y-pipe. Despite the damage, that was very thankfully the ONLY damage other than a small scuff on the underside of the bumper exhaust cut out. Which is very lucky too because although I wasn't going very fast, I definitely wasn't going idle speed, and I thankfully didn't mess up any of my suspension components, nor did I bend my ~1 month old brand new wheels. As annoyed as I was, I was very thankful it was worse.

 

I was able to source a used stock mid-pipe from another local 3.6R owner who had done raptors and full exhaust already, which he thankfully let me have for free. However, I did not get around to replacing the Y-pipe for quite a while, mostly because I was unsure exactly how I wanted to address the missing axleback, so this is pretty much how my exhaust stayed for the remainder of the year. I learned much later that the damage to the axleback was unfortunately more extensive than I realized, and it would not be able to be remounted. But we'll get to that around the January 2021 update posts.

[Humble Rumble]

JULY 8TH, 2020

 

Transmission fluid self service. Mileage at time of fluid change was 106,154. Used Amsoil Signature Series ATF. Had been almost exactly 40k miles since my last trans fluid change, was definitely time. Car felt buttery smooth again after the change.

[Humble Rumble]

JULY 13TH, 2020

 

Attempted to take my car for an alignment at Six Star, and they kept having trouble with the front passenger wheel seemingly not staying where they put it. They eventually found out that my right front caliper was failing, and thus wasn't holding the wheel completely still while they were trying to align it. So, as much as I would've loved to upgrade to Brembos, I didn't have the money at the time and needed fully functional brakes, so I decided to go with a set of Raybestos remanufactured rust coated calipers from RockAuto. I wasn't expecting the silver finish on them to look so nice, and they looked way nicer than painting OEM calipers red or some other color. Gave an unintended cosmetic improvement for a functional repair. After the core charge refund, the pair of calipers only cost me $120. Not bad at all.

[tony saurus]

JULY 1ST, 2020

 

Drove 50 miles or so to Indiana to pick up a Perrin Steering Damper Lockdown for $40 because I'm always a hound for a deal. Installed new with an actual allen wrench instead of getting an allen key socket. What a f*cking pain in the ass (and fingers for that matter). Note of advice to anyone doing this mod: get a damn allen socket and a ratchet extension. Make your life easier.

 

 

How did you like this? I was going to replace the entire shaft with joint but this looks well enough made and probably still helps to reduce vibration.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Humble Rumble]

How did you like this? I was going to replace the entire shaft with joint but this looks well enough made and probably still helps to reduce vibration.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'd definitely recommend for a relative cheap, quick and easy (if you have a hex socket), install and forget mod. It really does clean up the slop in the wheel, and turning response feels much more direct. As much as I don't care for SubiSpeed due to the fact they essentially completely ignore the existence of the entire Legacy line, they have a good video showing the actual effects. Install on a 5th gen is easier to access than on a VA as well.

 

[Humble Rumble]

JULY 17TH, 2020

 

Got an alignment at Six Star Motorsports. They had just recently moved into a gorgeous new facility with way, way more room then they had before, so I snapped this glamour shot of the new place. I cannot locate my alignment sheet from this visit, but it was factory specs except for -1 camber all around.