Seized again?

[bman]

I'm now working so much at home that I only take my car out once or twice a week on local trips. This past weekend I needed to drive on the highway. The front left was pulsing but, I couldn't see anything wrong. When I got to my stop I got out and driver's wheel was much hotter than the rest. Last time this happened it was a seized caliper. I replaced both fronts last year! WTF!

[WahooNo2]

if the pistons are not rusted you can rebuld them. if you got them from advance auto you can probably get a replacement.

[bman]

I drove 12 miles yesterday part local and part highway. The last 5 minutes the car was shaking so bad I could see the steering wheel wiggle 1/2" left-right. I'm assuming because the pads were binding. Again, the driver's front wheel was radiating heat (more than the others). I think I gotta pull the pads and re-grease the caliper, slide pins.

 

@Wahoo, I've been curious about rebuilding a caliper. Can I do it with hand tools in my driveway? How long does it take. I usually only have a couple of hours on a weekend (little kids really eat up free time).

[bman]

I just took the wheel off and one of the pistons is definitely siezed.

I called AutoZone and Advance. Both have "Limited Lifetime Warranty" on their calipers.

AutoZone said they would replace the caplier once and that's it.

Advance was more shady. I called the Customer Service # and the woman said because I replaced the caliper a few times in the past, it might be installed wrong, it would be up to the store to decide if they would replace it under warranty. I called a store and the guy said since I didn't drive the car very much that's "not how you're supposed to use the part" so it wouldn't be covered. WTF? So they wouldn't back their warranty if I drive too little?

It's making me think the warranties are BS!

[bman]

Is it possible that the brake lines on this 13 year old car are deteriorating and depositing chunks into the caliper pistons and that's why they're seizing so often? Should I replace the (rubber) brake lines? Would stainless steel be better than oem?

[cseagle08]

The rubber hoses probably have nothing to do with it. If they are going to deteriorate it's going to be in the form of a leak.

 

Usually when I run into this sort of problem I just replace the whole assembly - new caliper/guide pins/rubber boots/etc...start from fresh. Those parts aren't that expensive on rock auto.

[bman]

I already have 2 Carbone Ultra calipers on order. I read switching both are recommended. Also the Ultra's have a powdercoat and 10 year warranty. I'm hoping that will ensure I get less rust and I don't have to buy more calipers in a couple of years.

[bman]

If I'm replacing both front calipers should I?

• bleed both fronts
  
• bleed all calipers (front and rears)
  
• flush all old fluid
  

 

opinions on which one?

[JF1GG29]

I would just flush and bleed the whole system. You already have all your tools out, might as well have fresh fluid throughout and it'll take another ten minutes.

 

Also, thanks for the tip on the Cardone Ultra Premium calipers; I'll probably use those in the future.

[bman]

...And..... I just checked and I have a 1 year old bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid (Prestone Synthetic). I poured a little into the cap - clear as water, no color or debris. I'm assuming that's fine to use? Do I need to buy a fresh bottle?

[cseagle08]

Should be fine.

[apexi]

I wouldn't use year old, unsealed brake fluid. I'd buy a new bottle, it's not that expensive.

[jrbe]

Same caliper issues here. Rebuilds seem to all be crap lately. Wheel cleaners seem to work their way in and help the calipers get ugly quick. Rustproofing is extra $ so they dont do it.

 

Flush all of the brake fluid. Use unopened brake fluid, brake fluid absorbs water and can get the pistons rusting on the insides. Do your clutch at the same time. I use a motive pressure bottle to bleed fluid level down to the top of the MC then fill it with new fluid and bleed it all out.

[JF1GG29]

If you're going to do it, just do a complete job and do it right.

 

Flush the entire system with fresh DOT 3/4.

 

If you have the time, pull your calipers apart and check the slide pins. Grease the slide pins with high-temp grease if needed. (I do this for all calipers every time I do anything to the brakes.) Clean the slide surfaces.

 

Have a look at the rear hard lines and make sure that there isn't a ton of rust on them.

[bman]

I have no problem using a new container. I thought brake fluid gets darker if moisture gets in?

The stuff I was pouring was clear as water. The fluid that came out looked like light white grape juice. Should it come out clear?

[JF1GG29]

Fresh brake fluid is nearly totally clear when viewed through a clear vinyl tube. There are a lot of things that will darken brake fluid, including moisture, heat, contaminants in the system, etc.

 

Honestly, for a street-driven car, it's probably not a huge deal to have a little moisture in the fluid. There are cars on the street which haven't had their fluid changed in probably ten years and are still able to stop. General street driving does not produce the type of heat that will cause the moisture in the braking system to vaporize.

 

It's more an OCD thing for me.

[slo_pok]

Fresh brake fluid is nearly totally clear when viewed through a clear vinyl tube. There are a lot of things that will darken brake fluid, including moisture, heat, contaminants in the system, etc.

 

Honestly, for a street-driven car, it's probably not a huge deal to have a little moisture in the fluid. There are cars on the street which haven't had their fluid changed in probably ten years and are still able to stop. General street driving does not produce the type of heat that will cause the moisture in the braking system to vaporize.

 

It's more an OCD thing for me.

In 2014, I installed all new brakes with SS lines, and had to replace the drivers front again this fall. Piston was frozen, and all slides were in need of silicone grease. Living near DC

I do not drive much in snow, yet suspect the cause of seized brakes is the brine solution being sprayed to " pretreat" our roads.

 

 

Sent by phone.