Thinking about picking up a Legacy GT.....

[CUCUY]

......05 model, automatic, 61k miles and very well taken care of. Asking price is $4k.....

 

Anything I should be on the lookout for? Is the asking price fair?

All it really needs are tires. All maintenance is up to date.

 

Thanks

[xtea]

Don't buy if:

 

-The turbo is new

-It doesnt pass a compression/leakdown test

 

Ask if (best answer)

 

ALL banjo bolts (union screws) are still installed or removed (yes)

The catalytic converter in the uppipe has been removed (yes)

Stock or protune? (Protune)

Premium Gas ALWAYS used (yes).

 

Definitely hook it up to a code reader to see if there are latent codes.

 

You can research the how and whys with google. The answers are all there with explanations.

[DaveWaters]

Has the timing belt been replaced? If not, it’s due. (Age, not mileage)

[robburns201]

What he said ^^^^^ There are plenty of people that will do a compression test for a little money and save you a lot of headache...Also Head gaskets!!!!! Make sure they have been done or are not leaking...Great find with low miles! Mine has 1000,000 more than that so you should be good for a long while....Also that is a LOW price so i would be a little suspicious....

[wbrawley]

ALL banjo bolts (union screws) are still installed or removed (yes)

 

He means banjo bolt FILTERS. Hopefully the bolts are there or oil will be spraying everywhere lol.

[DementedGT]

i got mine for $5600 with 179,000mi. Im now at 191,000 and love every second of owning this car. Id kill for a low mileage one so you better snag it up if it looks to be well maintained.

[cseagle08]

Don't buy unless you are completely willing and mentally alright with putting $3k into it when the engine goes - just in case.

 

Because every other day on here:

First / New Member Posting: I just bought a new 2005-9 LGT I love it

Second Post: My engine blew up

 

Maybe it'll work out, but you have to be willing to accept the risk with a GT

[CUCUY]

It actually belonged to my grandmother and she can no longer drive, she kept up all the maintenance and has the records to show.

First thing I will be doing as soon as I get it will be timing belt along with water pump and all banjo bolts, after market harmonic balancer, aftermarket up pipe and down pipe, a tune to get rid of lean upon boost condition and eliminate associated codes with changing up pipe.

I'm not looking to add power, just make it reliable.

 

Will upgrade parts as stuff needs to be replaced, but not looking for a billion horsepower either lol

It'll be nice to hang with the Subie crew at TX2K this year.

[spacemanspif]

We bought my wife’s 05 for $5,000 with 55k miles. Had to do front shafts for torn boots, did the timing belt and all related hardware, leaking VC gaskets, spark plugs, and a radiator. Low mile cars are a funny animal and taking them from couch potato to daily duty can bring a lot of little things to the surface. Just drive it normal, do 3,000 mile oil changes, and keep an eye on all fluids. I think the reason for all the “hi new here” followed by “my engine exploded” threads is due to people driving harder than normal because turbo. Get a vac/boost gauge to monitor your lead foot; make sure it’s capable of producing 12-15psi (Or whatever stock boost is) once-in-a-while but for normal commute driving try to keep it below 10. When I drive the car it hardly sees boost except for on ramps, I think the pace it accelerates at 0 vac/boost is plenty fast for normal conditions.

 

Has the trans fluid ever been changed? Front and rear diffs? The Catless up pipe, access port, and boost gauge are your best bet for entry-level mods that add reliability to the equation.

 

Good luck with it!!!

[xtea]

It actually belonged to my grandmother and she can no longer drive, she kept up all the maintenance and has the records to show.

First thing I will be doing as soon as I get it will be timing belt along with water pump and all banjo bolts, after market harmonic balancer, aftermarket up pipe and down pipe, a tune to get rid of lean upon boost condition and eliminate associated codes with changing up pipe.

I'm not looking to add power, just make it reliable.

 

Will upgrade parts as stuff needs to be replaced, but not looking for a billion horsepower either lol

It'll be nice to hang with the Subie crew at TX2K this year.

 

You've covered it! Aftermarket crank pulley though might not be the best idea, definitely bad if you do lwfw and lw crank pully.

[wbrawley]

You can use a 2.2k ohm resistor for the uppipe temp sensor and not have a code there unless you are planning to use a catless DP and talking about that code.

[CUCUY]

You've covered it! Aftermarket crank pulley though might not be the best idea, definitely bad if you do lwfw and lw crank pully.

 

I'm replacing the crank pulley because of factory ones coming apart from age....

[eagleeye]

whole timing belt kit.

 

not just the belt.

 

if not OEM, Aisin = japanese made.

 

gates and the rest of the regular labels became chinese junk in a old name box.

[Infosecdad]

I'm replacing the crank pulley because of factory ones coming apart from age....

 

If you can, get a Fluidamper...

[hadvw]

I think the reason for all the “hi new here” followed by “my engine exploded” threads is due to people driving harder than normal because turbo.

 

Actually, the most common reason I see is: got a great deal - especially because previous owner put a new turbo on it!

 

95% of the time, "new turbo" means "old turbo died, putting on a new turbo and selling right away because I don't want to put $3k into it for a new engine and hoping to scam some unsuspecting sucker". New owner drives for a couple of hundred miles, metal shavings that were never removed work their way around and take out something major.

 

I remember one story in particular where the car started smoking like 50 miles after being bought..

 

Stay FAR away from any car with "new turbo" on it, unless they have receipts for a full new engine as well.

[hadvw]

Get a vac/boost gauge to monitor your lead foot; make sure it’s capable of producing 12-15psi (Or whatever stock boost is) once-in-a-while but for normal commute driving try to keep it below 10. When I drive the car it hardly sees boost except for on ramps, I think the pace it accelerates at 0 vac/boost is plenty fast for normal conditions.

 

Everyone has different priorities. Mine sees 15+ psi on a daily basis around town, 20+ almost every time on the freeway (bnr16g). Below 10? Wow, that would suck, trying to get around in traffic. Actually looking for a faster car for my next one (looking at Stinger or Q50RS or Charger SRT/Scat pack).