Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

5th Gen Ownership - Official Random Thoughts Thread - V3


Recommended Posts

My Legacy is driving me insane. Tracing an air leak in one of the wheel for years.

 

Did the following

1. Replace all (4) tires

2. Replace the wheel with a brand new OEM 17" alloy from Subaru.

3. Replace TPMS sensor and valve stem (thinking of bad o-ring)

4. Reseal the beads.

5. Can't find any leak from spraying it with soapy water.

 

That same wheel (new or old) is still leaking air loosing 3-4lbs in a week.

 

At this point I don't know what to do except dunk the whole wheel in a bath tub and leave it to see if there any bubbles. If I'm going this rout I have to do it while my wife is not home. She would kill me.

 

This is a long shot but check to make sure the valve stem itself is screwed all the way in. (Replacing the TPMS and valve stem should have resolved that issue)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Legacy is driving me insane. Tracing an air leak in one of the wheel for years.

 

Did the following

1. Replace all (4) tires

2. Replace the wheel with a brand new OEM 17" alloy from Subaru.

3. Replace TPMS sensor and valve stem (thinking of bad o-ring)

4. Reseal the beads.

5. Can't find any leak from spraying it with soapy water.

 

That same wheel (new or old) is still leaking air loosing 3-4lbs in a week.

 

At this point I don't know what to do except dunk the whole wheel in a bath tub and leave it to see if there any bubbles. If I'm going this rout I have to do it while my wife is not home. She would kill me.

 

Maybe someone has been playing a multiple year practical joke on you. ;)

 

When you take the original wheel and tire with the issue out of the equation by replacing them, some outside source is probably causing it. Does it happen when the tire is at any of the four corners, or only in one location? Are their bad roads where you live that could cause issues? Ect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a long shot but check to make sure the valve stem itself is screwed all the way in.

 

Maybe someone has been playing a multiple year practical joke on you. ;)

 

The reason I thought of valve stem being unscrew is that is a 'joke' my dad would do to get even. Unscrew the valve stem 1/4, 1/2 , 3/4, and 1 turn for random flat tires. My dad actually carried a valve stem tool with him in his truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a long shot but check to make sure the valve stem itself is screwed all the way in. (Replacing the TPMS and valve stem should have resolved that issue)

New valve stem and it's screwed all the way in.

 

Maybe someone has been playing a multiple year practical joke on you. ;)

 

When you take the original wheel and tire with the issue out of the equation by replacing them, some outside source is probably causing it. Does it happen when the tire is at any of the four corners, or only in one location? Are their bad roads where you live that could cause issues? Ect.

 

It's not the road because every week I'm putting 3-4lbs of air only in that (1) wheel. I even swap it to the other side and still leak. The other (3) is holding air. it does not matter if the temperature change and or road condition.

 

 

I be pist if it's the coating of the alloy wheel that's causing it to leak.

Edited by amusa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's always a possibility, I suppose. If you take it to a tire shop and tell them you have a rim leak, they'll usually apply an extra helping of goop when they re-seat it. It does seem weird that you'd see a rim leak on a brand new wheel, though.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a wheel (OEM alloy) on a 2002 Impreza that leaked just as you describe....turned out there was a pinhole leak in the rim itself.... when we did a long dunk test we saw tiny bubbles coming from the center of the rim about half way between the two beads and about half way between where two of the spokes joined the rim. It was replaced and the second one did the same....third time was the charm...VERY annoying!! :(
Link to comment
Share on other sites

PO204 is for a cyl 4 injector circuit malfunction. PO304 is for a cyl 4 misfire. I wasnt sure if you possibly mis typed it. Either way you should get it looked at. If it comes back that is. Either of those codes can lead to bad things. Just my two cents.

 

My bad... it was P0304, but it is running strong and no issues since swapping out the spark plugs. I want to make sure that I don't have any issues before starting to modify and getting tuned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a wheel (OEM alloy) on a 2002 Impreza that leaked just as you describe....turned out there was a pinhole leak in the rim itself.... when we did a long dunk test we saw tiny bubbles coming from the center of the rim about half way between the two beads and about half way between where two of the spokes joined the rim. It was replaced and the second one did the same....third time was the charm...VERY annoying!! :(

 

I had a set of wheels I bought for my old Grand Wagoneer and 1 had the same issue. There was a pinhole leak in the wheel itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This morning, my windshield washer sprayers randomly stopped working. Granted, it is cold, about 7 F, but my sprayers worked just fine when we had almost -20 a few weeks ago.

 

The fluid level light is not on, I attempted to add a bottle of fluid, and it only took about 1/3rd of it, I can hear the sprayer motor working when I pull the stalk, and there's a very, very slight amount of fluid dribbling out of the nozzles. Did not improve when the car warmed up. Any idea what could be going on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This morning, my windshield washer sprayers randomly stopped working. Granted, it is cold, about 7 F, but my sprayers worked just fine when we had almost -20 a few weeks ago.

 

The fluid level light is not on, I attempted to add a bottle of fluid, and it only took about 1/3rd of it, I can hear the sprayer motor working when I pull the stalk, and there's a very, very slight amount of fluid dribbling out of the nozzles. Did not improve when the car warmed up. Any idea what could be going on?

 

Plugged line maybe. Maybe something dried on the nozzle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on the fluid you used, too. Apparently the stuff my folks had in their garage is only good down to about 15-20, because that's about the point where the sprayers on the Baja transition over to either just peeing on the hood, or not following at all. I'd guess that the methanol probably evaporates out of the fluid in the lines over time or something, too, making the fluid downstream of the pump more prone to freezing if you don't use the washers often enough, but that's pure conjecture.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not all windshield washer fluid will go down to -20 or so. Have you or someone else topped off your fluid?

 

Years ago, I had bought some summer Rain-X bug wash, it didn't run out before cold weather and I found it froze at 20 degrees. My SoCal LGT I bought this summer also had 'summer' windshield washer fluid that I found froze around 15 degrees. Once it thawed, I mixed some Rain-X winter washer fluid and it has worked fine. [i was planning on running the blue stuff it had until it was empty]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, cars been sitting in the sun all day, and they're working now, so I can only assume I absent-mindedly put the non-super-cold fluid in there recently and it froze up. Flushed most of it out and replaced it with stuff rated at -20F. Should be good now.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys! If anyone has a young daughter that likes to ride bikes and would be interested in this, it's clean, always stored in a closet, and only use 1 or 2 times. It's yours, jyst cover shipping. 1 liter capacity IIRC.

 

ab0030060ba8430a2c68c7a85a2ac984.jpg9c6fe7d998aabe9635bb8957b3c23a66.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to figure out what parts, if any I should remove from the LGT.

 

Maybe the boomba weighted short shift plate, Perrin steering lockdown, RacesEng shift knob, one of my sets of wheels, Hardrace engine front/thrust mount, skid plate. Possibly my HIDs + silicone harnesses+relays packs+ballasts+on-delay-module... But only if anybody wants them.

 

Bilsteins, toe arms with lock outs, sway bar are all going with the car since it's cost me more than I'd recover.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to figure out what parts, if any I should remove from the LGT.

 

Maybe the boomba weighted short shift plate, Perrin steering lockdown, RacesEng shift knob, one of my sets of wheels, Hardrace engine front/thrust mount, skid plate. Possibly my HIDs + silicone harnesses+relays packs+ballasts+on-delay-module... But only if anybody wants them.

 

Bilsteins, toe arms with lock outs, sway bar are all going with the car since it's cost me more than I'd recover.

Trading her in?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use