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What did you do to your 2nd Generation Subaru today? - V3


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  • 3 weeks later...
I chased down a problem with my tail lights that has been driving me nuts trying to trace. Turned out to be a combo of a bad ground within the bulb housing and a bad bulb. Thankfully it was a cheap and easy fix after the diagnosis. Glad to be able to drive it again.
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  • 5 weeks later...

Removed one end link from my front swaybar to prove that is where the "control arm breaking off" sound is coming from. It is.

 

These are nearly new OE parts, so anyone have advice on how to assemble or lube this stuff so it is as silent as it used to be? I don't really want to replace it with all Whiteline since I drive on what many people consider to be "not a road" and appreciate the extra articulation of not having an extra stiff road setup.

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Yeah, I squeeze under there that way. These are OE rubber end links, no urethane to grease there. Plenty of grease on all the bits that are.

 

I'll probably go out and put it back together tonight since today is also not 115F out. That way I can take out the exhaust pressure setup and put the wideband back in.

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  • 10 months later...
Took all the measurements to make some shifter linkage bushings from polypropylene. It was nice for a while after I did my trans swap years ago, but that was just picking the best of my OE sets. They are completely shot now. Wiggling in first looks like wiggling in neutral should look. The new set should make it really crisp and notchy. I'll try to remember to take before and ater video once I get them turned and ready to install.
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Before video:

 

After video:

 

The bushings:

http://mynet.whitehat-inc.com/subaru/bushings.jpg

 

Got everything in tonight and only super smashed my thumb once.

 

To undo the shifter linkage with the trans in the car you pretty much have to be in 5th to get the two roll pins oriented where the trans mount is not in the way. The trans mount doubles as a great anvil if you want to smash your thumb.

 

Once the pins are out remove the linkage from inside, swap the bushings, feed it back down through the hole in the tunnel, go underneath and get the linkage on the shaft and get those pins back in.

 

EDIT: figured out that the videos were in private mode.

Edited by doublechaz
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  • 3 weeks later...
Today I removed the rear diff and cradle to do the bushings. Seems like the pinion bearings are done. That would account for the sometimes bearing sounds coming from the rear. I'll figure out which of my diffs are in the best shape and see if I can find a shop to rebuild one or sell me the bearings and seals so I can.
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Forgot to mention that the dial indicator and the gear pattern show that there is absolutely nothing wrong with my rear diff at 310k. So all that movement at the pinion must have been in the ujoint (it was dark and extremely crowded under there for my failed eyes). Still, while I have it out I'll clean and re-seal everything. Now on to drive shaft and carrier bearing work.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Found out that the differential axle seals from RockAuto are both wrong. Too small to go in the holes.

 

Theirs are 1.976" diameter. What they should be is 2.05". Great thing to find out over the weekend with everything torn apart. Should have taken time off work so I could visit the local Subaru dealer during their very short hours. That pretty much pushes my whole project back a week.

Edited by doublechaz
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  • 2 weeks later...

The seals showed up ahead of schedule so I got the diff buttoned up. I made it part way through getting it back in the car. The main hangup was getting the two bushings into the cross member to support the rear of the diff. They just wanted to kick sideways. Took a few tries using my seal and bearing press dies and threaded rod to get them to go in. It took me two jacks, two cement blocks and a ratchet strap to lift, tilt and support the diff and outriger and then pull it back into the rear mounting holes while lying in the dirt under the car on ramps.

 

All that is left is pulling the parking brake cables to get them routed correctly again as the outrigger wouldn't behave, and then put the shields and exhaust back.

 

All this would have been a lot less unpleasant if I had a lift or a pit.

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  • 1 month later...

Wow, that is embarassing.  It got stupid hot for a few weeks after my last post, and then it started raining at 3 inches per hour every day, so I just now got those parking brake cables put back how they belong since it isn't currently pouring for once.  Put all the interrior trim back that had to come out to do the cables.  Only lost a few trim screws during that long wait.  Had to get the rest from my stash.  I'm about to go out and cruise around for a while since I miss her so much.  Actually had a dream about driving her a few nights ago.

 

Edit:  Did about 100 miles of mountain switchbacks.  I feel much better now.

Edited by doublechaz
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  • 2 weeks later...

My inside rear view mirror got droopy.  I was afraid it was the little plastic cup around the ball like it was way back when I first got the car.  But lucky, it turned out that it was just the screw that holds the socket around the ball.

So I used some vibra-tite on it and the other screws that hold my accessory mount and accessories.  Now the mirror is nice and tight again, and same with the radar detector and dash cam.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Spent the last 2 weekends tackling some body work on my daughter's 98 GT. Previous owner in Colorado didn't keep the car very clean, so anyplace dirt could gather, there was rust. Ordered 2 cans of ready to spray color matched paint from automotivetouchups.com and 2 cans of 2k clear. While I was at it I decided to move the antenna hole from lower on the fender to the top. The power antenna broke several months ago and I felt a more modern stubby antenna would look better. I welded the antenna hole, but ran into problems blowing out the surrounding metal because I couldn't get the voltage low enough on my Mig welder and didn't have any thick copper to put behind to diffuse the excess heat. Rust hole was cut out and a fiberglass and metal mesh combination was put on the inside and fiberglass body filler was used on top. Primer was starting to show through on the center portion of the hood so I sanded that down and painted it at the same time. 

The plan was to also paint the roof as it's down to primer also, but I ran out of supplies. I'll have to order some later this spring and finish it then.


 

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Edited by schaff70
  • Like 3
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  • 1 month later...
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  • 3 months later...

I've been having some trouble with my door locks multi-firing, so today I started digging a hole in my glove box and just after half way to China I was able to get the door lock timer out.  Inspection didn't look that bad, but I had all the correct electrolytic capacitors on hand so I did them anyway. 1x 1uf 50v and 1x 22uf 25v.  It didn't fix the problem.  Seems like the switch in the driver's door or maybe a wire fault in the driver's door.  Probably the switch.  At least I know what module to unplug if it starts auto-unlocking the car at random.

I picked this as a light job to test out the function of my right hand.  Perhaps, weather allowing, I can get to work on the real items.  U-joints, possibly carrier bearing, one rear wheel bearing, and the steering rack mount bushings from Whiteline.  If I get those done then I can allow myself to buy some more parts for it.

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