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2005 Outback XT "stealth build"


busy13b
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Intro:

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4728/38480524925_6e4597ffec_z.jpg

 

In July '17, shortly after selling a selling a 2011 STi hatch (stage 2 mods) and mulling over what I might pick up next, a local Subie enthusiast steered me to a local couple getting ready to sell their 2005, Atlantic Blue Pearl and Granite Gray Metallic Limited, 5-speed with 157,000 miles, and 100% stock.

 

 

 

After making contact with the couple, I learned they bought the car essentially new from the dealer back in 2005. It had 1,800 miles on it when they purchased it - apparently the original owner turned it back in after not liking some aspect about the car. The car had then been faithfully maintained at that very same dealer ever since, right up to 157,000 miles, when they sold it.

 

The couple were only selling because they were taking delivery of a new VW Jetta Alltrack. Exterior and interior condition were just incredible! Outside of a fairly common issue with some paint flaking off the front bumper cover, the car looked like it could have less than 40,000 miles!

 

 

 

There was no way I could let that car get traded in, or hit the open market, as I knew the next person to look at it would take it in a heartbeat! So we agreed on a price and a few days later, I took posession.

Edited by busy13b
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My old STi:

 

The day I picked her up in Cali:

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/39357602631_1b3f704157.jpg

 

The day I sold her:

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4638/39357605551_f468226075_z.jpg

 

 

 

I do not regret selling the 2011 STi in the least bit. To me, it simply felt like an economy car with a (quite nice, admittedly) drive train upgrade.

 

 

Even though the STi was a much newer car, the quality of the interior on this 2005 OBXT is just night and day better! The fabric on the STi seats is notoriously easy to wear through, whereas the leather seats on the OBXT are wearing like granite! The STi was cheap and tinny sounding and feeling in regard to the doors shutting, whereas the OBXT is solid.

 

I've read or heard this before, but I believe it absolutely true - this generation of Legacy GT/Outback XT is truly a "gentleman's STi," which is to say, there is a ton of performance, without being overtly obvious about it. Much cheaper insurance premiums to boot. ;)

Edited by busy13b
fixed typos
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The build:

 

Everything about the two-toned XTs scream soccer mom to an untrained eye. So, my thoughts are to carry out a moderate build under that very cloak of stealth. I have to give a big shoutout to Scooby2.5 and his build thread here for inspiration!

 

I have no real HP/TQ goals, but something that will make for a fun daily driver without worry about blowing up the stock 5-speed. Here is everything I have acquired so far:

 

 

--POWER--

  • BNR 18G TURBO
  • LaChute 1.5 scroll equal length header + uppipe
  • Invidia bellmouth catted downpipe
  • AMR hard turbo inlet
  • JDM TGV delete (Subaru part# 14003AB930) from EJ20X
  • Grimmspeed 3 mm phenolic spacers
  • Grimmspeed Intake
  • Grimmspeed EBCS
  • Perrin TMIC + Mishimoto intercooler coupler
  • Perrin lightweight crank pulley
  • Crawford AOS v2

 

 

 

--COOLING--

  • Mishimoto 3 core radiator

 

 

--FUEL MANAGEMENT--

  • Accessport V3 SUB 002
  • DW 850 side feed Injectors
  • DW 65c fuel pump kit
  • Perrin FPR kit

 

 

 

--CHASSIS--

  • Whiteline front + rear swaybars
  • STi Genome front strut tower bar
  • Beatrush "hidden" rear strut tower bar

 

 

--BRAKES--

  • Brembo full brake set-up ('05 STi F+ R calipers, '04 STi discs, Torque Solution rear brackets, all s.s. lines
  • '07 STi brake booster and master cylinder

 

 

--INTERIOR--

  • JL Audio Stealthbox

 

 

 

--EXTERIOR--

  • JDM HID headlamps + USDM wiring conversion

Edited by busy13b
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Everything I have actually installed to date would be things I'd consider necessary reliability upgrades:

 

  • Perrin TMIC + Mishimoto intercooler coupler
  • Perrin lightweight crank pulley
  • Mishimoto radiator
  • Accessport with Stage 1 OTS map

 

I have also removed the turbo oil line screen, which, thankfully, was completely gunk free - a testamant to how often the prior owners changed the oil!

 

The AVCS oil line screen will come out this spring, once it warms up a bit.

 

And of course the J-spec HID headlamps are a very nice upgrade in light output. :icon_idea

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Mishimoto radiator install:

 

Obvious difference between the stock radiator (which began to leak only a few hundred miles after I picked up the car, *of course* :rolleyes: )

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4644/39357579911_a8494c667c.jpg

 

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4734/38480523195_070e259531.jpg

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Perrin LW crank pulley:

 

Installed at the same time as the radiator, which made installation a breeze. I was fully expecting to see my stock crank pulley totally discinigrated at 157,000 miles, but it was actually in decent shape, exhibiting only minor cracknig of the rubber at the edges. Regardless, the Perrin is a once and done proposition, and it did make a difference in how quickly the motor revs. Nice addition for sure!

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4590/39357585481_6d592a2ccd.jpg

Edited by busy13b
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JDM HID headlights:

 

Stock lights:

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4643/38480588425_c9a15eacbf_z.jpg

 

 

HIDs:

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4638/38480527175_787851e903.jpg

 

*notice the turn signal and side indicator lights are flip-flopped in the JDM vs the USDM lights. JDMs definitely look much less cluttered, when illuminated.

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JDM HID headlights:

 

Stock lights:

 

HIDs:

 

http://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4638/38480527175_787851e903.jpg

 

*notice the turn signal and side indicator lights are flip-flopped in the JDM vs the USDM lights. JDMs definitely look much less cluttered, when illuminated.

 

How is the cutoff beam for the HID headlamps? I've been interested in picking up a set and was wondering what the cutoff looks like. Also, it looks like the JDM ones have a separate bulb in the "stripe" for the parking light, yeah?

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Love these builds! I'm so envious we (in Europe) don't have the Outback XT (nor the Legacy GT).

 

I still have the front Brembo calipers for my H6 outback, but sold the rears since I didn't want to cut the backing plate and couldn't get hold of a set of original Legacy STi backing plates.

 

How are you planning to do the conversion?

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Love these builds! I'm so envious we (in Europe) don't have the Outback XT (nor the Legacy GT).

 

I still have the front Brembo calipers for my H6 outback, but sold the rears since I didn't want to cut the backing plate and couldn't get hold of a set of original Legacy STi backing plates.

 

How are you planning to do the conversion?

 

http://www.torquesolution.com/Subaru-Rear-Brake-Caliper-Adapter-p/ts-su-317.htm

 

^ This is what he posted that he’s using.

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  • 2 weeks later...
How is the cutoff beam for the HID headlamps? I've been interested in picking up a set and was wondering what the cutoff looks like. Also, it looks like the JDM ones have a separate bulb in the "stripe" for the parking light, yeah?

 

 

The cut-off for the HID bulbs is wonderful! Very sharp, and very level.

 

The JDM lights have an additional "city light" bulb that is situated low in the housing, between the main projector and the high beam lens. I believe some people wire them up as DRLs.

 

I am not using my city lights at all.

 

In addition, I had to disconnect the DRLs on my car since they would fire the HIDs (as they would the stock projector lamp), but with only enough voltage to make them flicker. Not good for the HID bulbs or ballasts.

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The cut-off for the HID bulbs is wonderful! Very sharp, and very level.

 

The JDM lights have an additional "city light" bulb that is situated low in the housing, between the main projector and the high beam lens. I believe some people wire them up as DRLs.

 

I am not using my city lights at all.

 

In addition, I had to disconnect the DRLs on my car since they would fire the HIDs (as they would the stock projector lamp), but with only enough voltage to make them flicker. Not good for the HID bulbs or ballasts.

 

Do you have a pic of the cutoff pattern you could share? I’m just worried about having a step up towards the driver side since these are RHD lights. Thanks again for the info.

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Do you have a pic of the cutoff pattern you could share? I’m just worried about having a step up towards the driver side since these are RHD lights. Thanks again for the info.

 

Of note, I have NOT opened up the lights to swap the reflectors, as seems so common of a "requirement."

 

Further, I have not hooked up the leveling motors and wired up the switch.

 

 

In reality, I don't think any of that needs to be done. What you can do instead, for simplicity, is to adjust the height of each side MANUALLY.

 

 

There is an 8mm plastic "bolt head" on the back that allows manual adjustment of the motor up and down. I simply lowered my driver side and raised the passenger side to mimic the US pattern. Not a perfect solution perhaps, but it gets you 90% there. Further, I've had no issues with glare or people flashing me.

 

I just swapped in new Philips D2S bulbs as the housings I got had the original bulbs. One side was showing signs of failing (drastic color change, periodic shutting off).

 

What a difference the bulb swap made! Night and day difference! These lights are AMAZING!

 

Original light output upon installation (obvious color difference between driver and passenger):

 

36296015305_3e2aa707b9_h.jpg

 

After new Philips bulbs were installed!!!

 

25890487908_a2138e9846_h.jpg

 

 

Here is a little FYI - I actually sourced my bulbs from TOYOTA!!

 

(part# 90981-20027)

25890485948_14c4062793_h.jpg

 

For about $50/pair on eBay, you get genuine Philips D2S 4300K bulbs!

38863570055_76f76801e4_h.jpg

 

 

For another reference point, the bulbs are marked as Philips part number 42402

25890480778_2a6f0cefe5_h.jpg

Edited by busy13b
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Out of curiosity, what are your plans for the clutch? I had replaced my clutch with the Exedy OEM replacement kit and wished I got something more aggressive, your build layout looks very similar to my plan as well.

 

Great question - my car has only a few miles on a new OEM clutch set-up, so I am not totally sure what the next step will be. It will certainly entail getting rid of the stock dual mass flywheel though. The clutch feel is pretty lacking. I am really contemplating a Spec-B 6-speed swap, and would go with some sort of "mid-weight" STi LWFW at the time.

 

 

Looks good. Any Suspension plans?

 

Thanks! Once I locate some rear sway bar mount reinforcements, I have Whiteline adjustable (front + rear) sway bars to put on first.

 

In addition, I've ordered the STi Genome front strut bar and a Beatrush rear strut bar. I'll leave it at that until I decide what else needs to be done. i will drive on this set-up for a bit and see what I think.

 

My original goal was to keep the Soccer Mom height to be more under the radar. However, the more I drive this, the more I suspect that will not work for me long term.

 

I am leaning towards bringing it down to "roughly" stock LGT height. I'm weighing options now. BC Racing Outback spec coilovers?? Perhaps.

 

If I do in fact go the Spec B 6-speed route, then from what I understand, I'll have to do the official "Outback to Legacy GT" suspension component swap anyway.

 

 

Do you sell the stock USDM Headlights? PN me if you do

 

The HID one look really nice, did you have problems with the wiring or is this plug and play?

 

My stock lights were sold off locally. My HID lights were bough with the wiring conversion already done by a vendor here on the forum, HKC-Speed.

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Perrin TMIC intall:

 

No real surprises here. Basic, straightforward install. In order to give myself a little breathing room, I took off the a/c line bracket that runs over the pitchstop.

 

38744977254_20a554597a_h.jpg

 

 

 

As you can see, the end tanks have been coated with a high temp paint to make the intercooler look more "stock-ish." :)

38744973014_8806aa535f_h.jpg

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Lightweight Battery Install:

 

I've been a rotary guy since back in 1999. For a LONG time, it has been a proven upgrade in the RX-7 world to run the Odyssey PC680. Even though the published specs make it seem as if it doesn't have much CCA power, it DOES.

 

The RX-7 guys have loved this battery over the years for a few reasons:

 

  • Sealed battery design allows for safe interior install if desired
     
  • Proven durability/reliability especially with the excessive heat under hood that rotaries put out.
     
  • Extremely lightweight
     
  • long lasting

 

 

 

In addition, it can be mounted upright or on it's side! Removable battery terminals allow flexible configurations.

 

Subies are notoriously hard on the batteries, and the stock battery is a monster. When I bought the OBXT, my battery was on it's last leg, so simple solution for me is to run a Odyssey PC680. I installed a new one back in the fall, maybe late September '17.

 

38574425915_bc3900c8ee_h.jpg

 

For now, I am simply using the stock battery tie-down, but will put a more elegant solution in place later. Stock tie-down has done a good job of at least holding the PC680 securely for now!

 

25582929518_e543314ed5_h.jpg

 

This battery rocks!! It cuts the weight of the stock battery by over half!!! It has effortlessly started my car in sub freezing temps this winter.

 

No Big Deal:

38744980124_abb93b33b2_h.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
Out of curiosity, what are your plans for the clutch? I had replaced my clutch with the Exedy OEM replacement kit and wished I got something more aggressive, your build layout looks very similar to my plan as well.

 

running a south bend daily 2 in mine with a south bend wrx flywheel

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