Evo3 16g turbo swap questions. Stranded 380 miles from home.

[Newberryle19]

Hey guys and gals. I hate to be " that guy" who does not search the forms for my answer but please bear with me. I work in the oil field and am currently stranded at work in West Virginia, 380 miles from home, living in a man camp with internet that would make dial up feel like high speed internet. Was on my way back from Walmart and my turbo decided to blow on me. 05 lgt 5eat with 118k ok the odo, and she is in damn near mint condition minus a small water mark in the headliner from me not closing the sunroof completely one night.

I had been planning on upgrading the turbo, fuel system, and intercooler this summer. The plan was to go evo3 16g for the turbo. Obviously I can't wait untill summer now. I'm completely stock minus a Cobb access Port and air filter. I currently have the old smoked turbo out and sitting on my kitchen table, and she's definitely fukkd. I would like to keep the option of another vf40 as a last resort.

My question is, do any of you know of a map that is available for the access Port for a stock setup with the evo3 that would be safe to run until I get to the fuel system and pro tune this summer? Or should I just drop in a vf40 untill then? I'm really just looking for my best option so I can get home.

Again I'm sorry for not searching for the answer, but with this cave man internet it too me 30 minutes alone just to load the page to post this.

 

Just thought I should add, just did some more digging on the car after work tonight, found the culprit, clogged banjo bolt screen. Just my luck.

[Wasted Potential]

I am running a VF52 on stage 2 accessport and have "accidently" been in boost an hit 18.x psi... a good hand full of times... 16g and even probably 18g, most likely even 20g will work. Definetly out of boost you will be fine. Just get an e tune in the mean time from Cryo or Tuning Alliance and if you have to run the stage 2 from Cobb.

[Newberryle19]

I am running a VF52 on stage 2 accessport and have "accidently" been in boost an hit 18.x psi... a good hand full of times... 16g and even probably 18g, most likely even 20g will work. Definetly out of boost you will be fine. Just get an e tune in the mean time from Cryo or Tuning Alliance and if you have to run the stage 2 from Cobb.

 

Thank you wasted. I'll see what I can find from from those sources tomorrow after work. I see your from Syracuse, your actually not that far from me, I'm just outside of Sayre PA. Just thought it was funny the first reply was from so close to home.

[relative4]

In this situation, a VF40 is the only wise choice.

[Infosecdad]

I would pick up a VF-40 for now, you can resell it later if needed or have a backup.

 

There are a few in the classifieds like this (disclaimer, I'm just searching, I'm not related to the sellers, nor endorsing any specific listing):

 

Looks like $200 shipped...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-va-vf40-turbo-new-chra-300-shipped-contusa-267081.html

[Wasted Potential]

Thank you wasted. I'll see what I can find from from those sources tomorrow after work. I see your from Syracuse, your actually not that far from me, I'm just outside of Sayre PA. Just thought it was funny the first reply was from so close to home.

 

Travelled through Sayre a lot.

 

Dave at Cryotune performance is usually a one man show but is usually quickest turn around as long as there is no wait time, next Tuning Alliance is often 3-5 business days after you send in the e tune slip before receiving your file. I advise calling TA if you want them to send you the bill and tune order slip to speed up the process.

 

You can most definetly run on the corn Cobb stage 2. As you can see, everyone else will say it is ill advised. My motor had kinda crap compression to begin with. But so far, knock on wood, it's still together. I thought I had a VF40, then I did a downpipe swap and turns out it has a VF52.

 

It can and will work. It is a last resort thing. Just make sure you get a tune as soon as possible (I been untuned stage 2 VF52 for about 1 months and 2k miles). Just didn't know it for the last 1.5k haha.

 

Order a high flow catted down pipe, please do not go catless (think of the environment - even though you're oil field experience). Install the 16g, pull the banjo bolt filters, and run the stage 2 while you NEED to and get the e tune ASAP. I only run 93. On 91 it would still pull timing on below 87 stage 2 tune.

 

Edit: just saw you said pro tune until summer. I'd advise you do not wait that long. I wouldn't go for more than a couple hundred miles if I could help it..

[Max Capacity]

Tell us how bad the old turbo is.

 

Did it put metal into the oil system ?

 

http://www.AZPinstalls.com in NJ may be a good source for help too.

 

I got my new VF52 from them years back.

[covertrussian]

First, the turbo failed for a reason, mostly likely banjo filters, make sure you pull them when doing the turbo. If you ran the car with the failed turbo, you might need to drop the oil pan to clean out the metal shavings (not fun).

 

Now 16G won't be happy with stock oiling since stock IHI turbos need less oil then most non ball bearing turbos. There is a restrictor in the turbo banjo and banjo bolt. Thus you'll need new oil lines.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Subaru_oil_line.jpg

 

$100 kit with AVCS line should do the trick (note that fishing the stock line out is a real pita, cutting off the ends might be sufficient without digging out the long section under the manifold. Here is how I did mine with -4an lines

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259936&stc=1&d=1514334850

 

Finally you have the tune issue. You will be overboosting, running too much timing, and possibly leaning out. One way to reduce overboosting is to run wastegate spring pressure only (by not hooking up the stock boost controller). My 16g's gate is 13.5psi, this was sufficient for me so I ended up bypassing the whole EBC system and am running gate pressures only.

 

This removed the overboosting factor, which helps keep the AFR's and Timing happier, but they still will need to be tuned before you go beating on the car. Unless you want to be replacing the motor next due to knock.

 

Oh you will need to add a good wideband to your shopping list too (I recommend AEM X-Series personally).